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eclat22

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Everything posted by eclat22

  1. Hi Mike, from memory I used to use very long bull nosed pliers from underneath the diff slightly to the front, this worked but was still not easy especially if split pins are used insted of R clips. Now no longer a problem on my car due to diff conversion. Have Entered two races at Silverstone on 7th July at the Bentley Driveds Club race meet. Hope to go testing in the next couple of weeks. Good Luck Dan. P.S. I have various diff parts that are now not needed for my car.
  2. Try Mike Taylor at www.lotusbits.com he cansupply the parts for the door handle s etc I believe he can supply new as well as second hand. Hope this helps. Dan
  3. Hi Tysonn, if you are interested I have a set of series 1 alloy wheels that I had refurbished by pristene wheels of Woburn about 5years ago, the have only had dry use and are in excellent condition still, they where diamond turned and the centres repainted it the correct colour and look awsome on the car, only for sale as the wheels will not fit over my 310mm front brakes. If you are interested I am looking for £120 for them, send me your email address and I will send you some pics, you won't be dissapointed. Dan
  4. Hi, depending on the car, some pumps are fitted with a gasket and some are just stuck with sealant, if you have definately removed all the bolts, is it just the sealant holding it? Dan
  5. eclat22

    Luminition

    Hi, Yes i've got one which came off of a car that I broke, give me a call on 07710176066 Regards Dan
  6. Thought it would, there appears to be various old plumbing fittings used on older cars diffs and gearboxs too, I would use a copper or alluminium washer rather than a rubber o ring on the sump plug, but if an o ring works without squashing out thats good too. Glad to help Dan
  7. I'd second what Andy said , speak to Mike at lotusbits, they specialise in the Excel and other 900 series engined cars and have a great setup, worth a day out just to see the amount of stock he has up there. Regards Dan
  8. Yep, single wire to the sender located in the rear of thermostat housing, the female pushes over the round disc end on the sender Dan
  9. Similar to Tony except I made an adaptor to thread into the caliper inlet that connects to a compressor, again I put a block of wood in the caliper to stop the pistons from shooting out, you normally have to block the pistons in place loosely as the come out to aid removal of the last pistons. Regards Dan
  10. Try Mike taylor at www.lotusbits.com he lists both new windscreens and brake disks for the Elite and has the facility to carry out all jobs small and large from a service to a full restoration or can just supply the parts you need. Regards Dan
  11. you could try a 1/2 inch flanged plug from a plumbers mechant i'm pretty sure its the same thread, have a look at the link here http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Plumbing/Compression/Brass+Flanged+Plug+12/d20/sd2697/p71545 it'll cost under £1 and you can get it local Dan
  12. Hi Mike, I have just about finished the rebuild and conversion of the rear end of the car, modified diff etc, pictures of modification on this website http://lotusdriversclubonline.org.uk/index.php?app=garage&do=view&tab=images&id=5. Not sure when I will be racing next but hope to book general testing at Silverstone soon, will let you know how things go. How's your project going? Dan
  13. Hi Mike Ahh, just a tack weld, you gave me visions of puddles of weld! I have to say that I have done quite a few stud upgrages and have had no problems with the studs turning but they have allways been larger diameter and have needed the original holes drilling out to suit, have normally pressed the studs in using a bench vise and spacer tube protect the stud,but on the other hand if I where to get caught, I would be cursing. I also saw the article in PPC mag, but would be more inclined to adapt the hubs rather than the wheels. Regards Dan
  14. Why weld in the studs? they normally press in from the back into suitably drilled holes.
  15. Hi David, I sent you an email with tracking info, hope you got it Dan
  16. Hi David, there is a burrroughs gauge for sale on ebay at the moment http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Lotus-Esprit-Excel-Eclat-Elite-Borroughs-Gauge_W0QQitemZ270567975897QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item3eff1babd9 Regards Dan
  17. Hi Matt, from memory it goes to a vacume pod in the left hand side of the passenger footwell, behind the panel. It is part of the ineterior heater setup and aids operation of the heater flaps to direct heat to different parts of the cabin. Regards Dan
  18. I have found a source for polyurethene bushes for the rear radius arms on Elites and Eclats as a replacement for the metalastic Lotus part, its a direct swap, the manufacturer is cross referencing a box of lotus bushes that I sent to them to see what else they do that might be compatible. I will update as soon as I know. They also do rear link bushes for the same cars. Regards Dan
  19. Hi Matt, I have found an archive photo showing the breather pipe connection to the airbox but cannot upload it due to having no upload quoata left, I have the image saved on pc so could email it direct if you would like. I located the spare airbox that I have and have found that that one too has the spiggot missing, it lloks as if it has been pulled out of the grp, but I could also take a pic of that too. Dan
  20. Hi Matt, the pipe should go to a spiggot on the back of the airbox that looks like it has been cut off and a bolt put in its place, looks to be about 2"s in front of the rubber pipe on the end of the breather, I think I have an airbox with the spiggot still on it in my shed that is my spare, that I could do and exchange deal on as I do not require the spiggot on the application that I have. Regards Dan
  21. If all you are looking for is better acceleration, change the diff ratio and be prepared to change gear quicker, If you check out what these cars are geared for you will find that they are geared way above what they can achieve in top gear for fuel efficiency and cruising.
  22. you could try www.lotusbits.com
  23. Don't worry Mike, I'm still around Dan
  24. Hi, as a long shot, the temperature gauge is electric, when you switch on the fans it could be affecting the voltage supply to the sender causing the resistance in the sender to change thus causing the gauge to read high. From memory the sender v+ supply goes from a voltage stabilizer at the back of the gauges through the temp gauge to the sender on the thermostat housing and then to earth. Has this supply been connected to a non stabalised supply? Regards Dan
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