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Everything posted by eclat22

  1. I would 2nd the Getrag, it's the only thing I haven't broken on the Eclat race car
  2. It's either diff out or engine and gearbox, the prop will come out either way
  3. Be carefull, I rebonded a screen into the race car had it all held down right to the shell but when releasing the clamps after the bond had cured the screen started to delaminate and crack, had to fit my spare screen to it
  4. You will probably find the side windows are the same
  5. The Diff is a hybrid that I built, it has the cast pig's head from a Ford atlas with the Lotus Salisbury 7ha reduced tubes and driveshafts from the standard Eclat S2 with a custom Gripper LSD. The disc conversion was originally on my standard diff. The brake discs aren't standard, I had to turn them down on the lathe to fit and re drill the mounting holes, the original calipers that I used were to powerful and had to be changed to a combination wilwood handbrake calipers
  6. And this today in my home town, obviously certain people don't get the virus
  7. Hi, from memory there should be a spring clip that goes over the otter switch and flange,
  8. Hi, these handles can be repaired by carefully drilling out the plastic where the thread is and bonding in a rivnut insert
  9. Yet another government burden on small business owners. The people who come up with these schemes should try living in the real world. By the time you have tried to comply with all the red tape you have no time left to carry out you actual work. They assume that every business has a department to deal with their new ideas. Sorry I'm starting to rant, I'll get back to work
  10. Hi Peter, I have seen fuse holders where the part that holds the fuse has loosened where it is riveted through the Bakalite to the terminals where the wires attach, I would be checking this as it could be causing the resistance that is causing the holder to get hot. You could try disconnecting the wires at the rear and fitting a blade fuse behind as a test to see if you get the same symptoms. regards Dan
  11. Looks to me as if you remove the gear knob, then remove part 29 I can't tell from the picture whether it unscrews or pull out then just pull off the reverse tube.
  12. Hi John, the gearstick is a funny arangement it pushes on in the bottom of the chrome part is a rubber bush keywayed washer and spring clip, here are some pictures, yours won't have the split pin that is something I have added. hope this helps dan
  13. Hi John, I have both of those parts that are now spare as I don't use them on the race car, they are yours for beer money and postage, make an offer. They were working when removed regards Dan
  14. Hi, with regard to the bolts that hold the bonnet on they probably have nyloc nuts on the inside, you would have to access them by removing the headlights and going through the headlight pod, having had the bolts shake out without nyloc nuts on whilst travelling up the motorway resulting in the bonnet ejecting from the car I would not rely on just threading into the bobbin although it sounds like yours have been drilled out or stripped. Hope this helps regards Dan
  15. Signed, now at over 55000
  16. Hope it all goes well with the Mot, look forward to hearing it's on the road.
  17. Hi Barry did you say trunnions are filled with grease? If so I'd recommend cleaning them out and filling with ep90 gear oil. The grease has a habit of congealing and not lubricating properly. I believe this to be the current recommend method regards Dan
  18. Check the loom connector plugs as well, if it's like the s2.2 then it can help to check these.
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