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Vulcan Grey

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Vulcan Grey last won the day on July 10 2015

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About Vulcan Grey

  • Birthday 09/12/1975

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  • Name
    Travis
  • Car
    Esprit SE '89
  • Modifications
    many, see G+ Link
  • Location
    Colorado, USA

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  1. @hspeck https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B2nifoCpaFSfS1dIRWNzaXp4Z0k/view?usp=drivesdk&resourcekey=0-WAv1mTOIFBiT80kwicAy3A https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B2nifoCpaFSfNThzakFtNjZnNFE/view?usp=drivesdk&resourcekey=0-OHQpqLVTcz3PVhTs5GTcYQ
  2. https://www.lotuscars.com/en-US/fuel-compatibility Lotus Model Production Year E10 Compatible? Elan 1989 – 1994 No Esprit (4cyl. carburettor) 1987 – 1989 No Esprit (4cyl. fuel injection) 1989 – 1999 Yes Esprit (V8) 1998 – 2004 Yes Elise (Rover) 1996 – 2004 No 340R 2000 No Exige (Rover) 2001 – 2002, 2004 No Elise (Toyota) 2004 onwards Yes Exige (Toyota) 2004 onwards Yes Europa 2006 – 2010 No Evora (Toyota) 2009 onwards Yes
  3. I agree that the cheap versions on amazon and ebay are of questionable quality. However... they are cheap! I read reviews supposedly written by people who said they had tried the expensive ~$400+ Harley Davidson Daymaker LED headlights and then compared them to the $35 Amazon version. And they thought the amazon version was definitely as good and much more worth the $. At $35 I can afford to buy these and try them out. My car had the H4 E-Code non sealed bulb, originally the USA version all came with horrible sealed bulbs that had not changed since sometime in the middle of last century! The sealed bulbs were useless on a car that can go over 30mph, and the headlights were better but not great (while blinding anyone who might see them in the 0.25s that it took for me to turn them off). SO I ended up only using the brights in the countryside. If these LED are as much improvement as they appeared to be in my garage, and I can see any better, then I'll be very happy! The price for the LED units including Sanj's adapter brackets, were much less than the price for the similar kit from PNM. Sanj's bracket is also backwards compatible with the original headlights!
  4. I had kept an eye on the posts about the LED headlight conversions, and I even bought a set of @sanj conversion kit with plates. But I had always put it off, and hadn't "finished" my research about how to install it. It turns out, it's very easy! Raise the headlight buckets by hand (turn knob on back of headlight motors) and unplug the pod motor harness on each side. Remove the trim around each headlight, 6 screws Loosen the 3 screws that hold the chrome bezel, which holds the sealed bulb in place. Be ready to catch the sealed bulb. remove the 4 screws that hold the black bracket to the pod Remove the 1 screw that holds the brass colored ring to the black bracket. Twist the brass ring to snap it off of the 2 adjuster posts (do not screw with the adjusters) Drill out the 4 rivets that hold the plastic adjuster tabs to the black bracket. Use Sanj's kit supplied rivets to attach the plastic adjusters to the aluminum plate he provides. screw the spacer onto the aluminum bracket with the flat head screw and some loctite. Twist to snap the brass ring back onto the adjuster posts Screw in the screw that holds the brass ring onto the spacer post (use loctite) Repeat this for each light assembly you are changing. Attach bracket back into pod with the 4 screws. connect LED bulb assembly to the wiring in the car. No modification necessary, they are plug and play! use chrome bezel to hold LED in place and twist to lock. Tighten 3 screws holding the bezel. test pod actuation by lowering motors by hand (turn knob on back of headlight motors) Plug pod motors back into car harnesses. align headlights reattach plastic trim pieces. Removed original black bracket and brass ring next to Sanj's aluminum adapter. Back side of original black bracket. (drill out 4 rivets) Remove adjuster from brass ring Transfer and rivet plastic adjusters to new aluminum adapter Snap the adjusters back into the brass ring Screw brass ring to spacer Installed low beam The LED's that I chose were $35 each on Amazon!
  5. I definitely needed a longer reach 2 ton engine hoist (1570mm jib) to reach the engine in my 89 Esprit. I tried the 1 ton version (1173mm reach) and that did not reach far enough. It's much more difficult to raise the crane high enough to pull from the side. Pulling from the rear is much easier.
  6. most likely built up rust on the rothers where the pads sat. You can clean them off with some brake bedding in technique.
  7. The Radford silhouette does look similar to the Europa above
  8. As someone who's tried to rinse dirt/oil/anything out of carpet... It takes for F'ing ever and a metric tonne of water and soap! I can't see using it in a garage, especially with a car that is ever driven in the rain/mud/snow/salt.
  9. It was in a new house. The concrete had been poured months before, but no spills yet. I did have to grind the floor, since the new concrete crust isn't great for adhesion. I rented a concrete floor grinder, took a few hours. I washed the dust off. The pouring of the polycuramine epoxy is fast and simple. It comes in two parts of a pouch that you squeeze one part into the other and then mix for 15s. Pour it out and spread with a roller. I have a 3 car garage and it took approx 3 kits of the 2.5car garage to get the coverage that I wanted. I also sealed the seams with Sika sealant. I used https://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/rocksolid/garage-floor-kits/polycuramine-garage-floor-coating-kit Nice thing is that all the dirt and salt from the winter driving, just wipes off!
  10. I used the polycuramine epoxy coating. Seems very durable, and a little slippery when wet. I do like it better than concrete. Much easier to clean spills!
  11. Hey Derek, I don't have a photo showing my BOSCH pump engraving apparently. I believe Ian is saying he bought a 69218, which has 0 580 453 477 on it. That pump is listed as a cross reference for the 5.7L 1989 Chevrolet Corvette V8. At the time I looked in 2011, I couldn't find any listing of the flow. Which catalog are you looking at?
  12. Derek, I have read that in the Lotus manual... However, they did fit a higher output pump to the X180-R and another even larger one to the Sport 300... If the original SE Delco pump were good for 3-4x the fuel requirements of the engine at 264hp to 280hp, then why the larger pump for 280-300hp? If I recall correctly the SE pump was rated for 120Lph? Could be wrong. In my experience, I had an X180-R pump (original lightly used from a friend's X180-R that I put in my car in 2002). It died in 2011. I started to get a boost cut, to the mechanical wastegate limit, for several minutes and a surge and back fire. I replaced the pump and drove again on the same 90F day within 1 hour and the lean condition was gone. I do have an A:F meter in the car, and after the new pump I was getting 10.1:1, 11.1:, 12.2:1 at WOT in various gears, with a 14.6:1 at idle or coasting. The static fuel pressure was high with no loss after an hour. The idle pressure was 43psi, and the max pressure with boost was about 57-60psi. Spark plugs looked good, not lean.
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