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Vulcan Grey

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Everything posted by Vulcan Grey

  1. Google "jalopnik rich energy" they have done a series of interesting articles on Rich Energy!
  2. Nearly 60 Percent of Lamborghini's Sales So Far This Year Have Been Urus SUVs https://jalopnik.com/nearly-60-percent-of-lamborghinis-sales-so-far-this-yea-1836044797?utm_campaign=socialflow_jalopnik_facebook&utm_medium=socialflow&utm_source=jalopnik_facebook&fbclid=IwAR3AyrmjHYTfNuyzTJYZipkCp-0zdSv7Tbjr5quHsh3oUooebsR_s86AJS8
  3. @BritInNY There's an .xls file in the Yahoo Groups Turbo Esprit group that has various Gates hoses that can be used to replace hoses in the Esprit. https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/TURBOESPRIT/files/CrossReferenceGuide/ You'll need to request access to the group
  4. You just push the throttle cam down with your thumb and then once slack, it's pretty easy to push the cable barrel out of the cam.
  5. Did someone say "dog" and "performance SUV"? I will say it is nice having a dog that loves everyone and everything. And everybody loves him! We do get mobbed, everybody wants to pet him! I never have to worry about him starting things with other dogs, we meet tons of neighborhood dogs per day, on every walk! Some other people's dogs are "reactive" and will lunge or snap or bark at Enzo. He really doesn't care. He just wants to be friends with everything. We let him out on the porch at times, and he'll watch people and dogs walk by, often on our lawn, and not a peep from Enzo! We were able to heavily socialize him as a puppy, he's met hundreds of people and dogs, at big events like "Doggiepalooza" at the Belgian brewery behind our house. We've also taught him to not be sensitive about loud noises like cars, fireworks, thunder... He's always fine! I do think most of it is training, but I know there are definitely some breed tendencies, and even behaviors passed on by the dogs parents. He's also really good riding in the back of the car, you'd have trouble telling if he's back there at all.
  6. Be careful, it is easy to break the throttle cable adjuster thread. The throttle can be sticking for several reasons. The cable sticking in the sheath. The cable sheath sticking/pinched in the guide tube where it goes through the bulkhead. The cable where it comes out at the throttle pedal, there's a clamp there that can pinch the cable in the sheath. Or it could be that the engine growth with heat is pulling on the cable. I have found it is necessary to set the cable a little slack when the engine is hot, while still being able to get 0-100% in freescan, and while making sure the base TPS voltage is between .45-.65V in freescan.
  7. We had a "1000year flood" in 2013 here in Colorado. I was in Minnesota as a kid and they had a 3000year flood, was 14" in 8 hours IIRC.
  8. Build a moat! Like that Hever Castle we saw. This might be happening more often!
  9. The throttle 0% position is saved at startup IIRC, if you have your foot on the throttle slightly, it'll set that as 0% I believe. If you push the throttle 100% though, it go into clear flood mode. There is no NVRAM. The BLM is the long term fuel trim, resetting it in freescan is the same as disconnecting the battery. The integrator is the short term fuel trim. The IAC is a stepper motor and must find home each time the car is started. It may lose home, and be reset in freescan. From what I understand resetting the battery may not mean that the IAC is homed correctly. Resetting it via freescan is a better bet.
  10. disconnecting the battery will also wipe the BLM. Never disconnect the battery or the ECU fuse while the keys are in the ignition!!!
  11. Happy Birthday Bibs!
  12. IF you depressurize the system, but leave the fuel caps on, then small changes in atmospheric pressure can cause fuel to come streaming out of the fuel lines! Happened to me. Taking the fuel filler caps off, equalizes the pressure on both sides of the fuel lines.
  13. It is definitely possible to unplug the return line from the regulator and move it around a bit. You definitely want to depressurize the system first (don't forget to remove the filler caps too. And you'll need a plug to plug the return from the regulator. You'll also need to follow the instructions in the EMH manual, or else you risk damaging something by overpressurizing the fuel system.
  14. I've done the cast iron manifold in an SE many times. Remove the vacuum pump, the heat shields, the rear boot floor, the turbo. Use a flat screwdriver to pry the locking tabs out a bit so you can get sockets and wrenches on the nuts.
  15. GREEN arrow under the protective aluminum cap. You can turn the flat head screw within the cap, don't try to remove the cap. DO NOT turn the screw at the RED Arrow. That is the throttle butterfly adjustment, it is done at the factory to match the flow of the 1&2 to the 3&4 cylinders.
  16. There's only so much you can adjust with the throttle. You can adjust the pedal range, the cable slack (the cable must have some slack when the engine is fully warmed up, or it can pull on the throttle and cause higher revs), and you can adjust the base voltage of the TPS at idle (engine off) by rotating the TPS when the screws are loose. By the way that should be between .45-.65V. The ECU will control the idle via the IAC (Idle Air Controller stepper motor). DO NOT try to adjust the idle by adjusting the screws on the throttle butterflies! I looked at your data, and while it was not an ideal run for data, it does look like your IAC counts are too high at idle. That can be a cause of poor running when starting cold (stalling), or it could be a problem with surging at low throttle openings. You should start logging freescan from a cold engine, start the engine without touching the throttle or anything, and let it idle to a coolant temp of 82C. Let it stabilize there. The IAC should come down to between 20-40 at idle with a fully warmed engine. If it is higher, it'll cause poor drivability. Your MAP should be = 1/2 Baro at Idle, and MAP = Baro when engine off. If not look for leaks. IF your IAC is not between 20-40 at idle, then you might need to adjust the minimum air rate bleed screw (not the butterfly plate balance adjuster!) in very tiny increments (like 1/64th of a screw driver turn at a time) while watching the IAC on freescan to get it to stabilize between 20-40.
  17. There's a tube frame Esprit project here https://www.facebook.com/F1-Motorsports-Lotus-Esprit-S3R-178516808826230/
  18. It's threads like these that remind me of how little rust my car has... An 89SE with 84k miles. My rust is the shade of transparent...
  19. If it were the same backbone layout, then it would probably be similar to the Zenos chassis. https://www.gatormotorsport.com/sales/zenos/zenos-e10s
  20. Had a Pirelli PZero Rosso front tire start to fail in the middle of a 900 miles trip home from a Lotus Owner's Gathering. It was actually a manufacturing defect, the tire plies hadn't bonded properly. Held till I got home! Now I have my Brembo Race brakes with 328mmx35mm rotors, so the spare won't fit anymore. My friend has blown several tiers on his X180-R Esprit on the street and track. One front tire blew at high speed and also cut his front oil cooler hose. I've had a puncture and a slice (at the same time) on my daily driver with low profile tires. Tire got so hot it was hard to hold.
  21. I live in a dry climate... No rust! I've never had any problem removing manifold or turbo...
  22. The spark plug should be NGK BPR6EKN (copper) I know some people like to use the iridium plugs, but I've heard of problems over the years I've been active with the Esprit Delco injected cars... Besides, it's not the kind of engine that you want to let go 100,000 miles without checking the health of the cylinders by looking at the plugs. Also with increasing boost, you generally need to go to a tighter spark plug gap, so I'd want to stay within the spec, rather than wider.
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