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Everything posted by Dunc

  1. LOL - they do..... Billy also has one of my diffs that he was supposed to build with an LSD and a fancy ratio... After phoning him every month for a year and a half to check on progress - I gave up, figuring if he has progressed it, he will call me. Never heard from him again.
  2. Yes, If I elect to at least try swapping an output shaft, I will pop the rear cover off and clean it all out to see if there is any swarf. I probably will end up fitting a new diff as its a 4.1:1 so the legs are a bit short for 8 cylinders, but I know I will have to cut out the stud on the drivers side and that it will fight me every step of the way.
  3. Thanks Pete - something is not right as I have about half an inch of in and out play. I have another diff kindly donated by Roddy M, but obviously fitting is a pain. Swapping a new shaft in is probably worth trying before I pull the entire back end of the car off to swap the diff out.
  4. I've got this on mine Michael - sounds like you may have prior experience? What is the cause? Is it the output shaft bearing that fails causing the movement? I see Mike and Co at Lotusbits offering new output shafts with the bearing pressed on, which looks like a whole lot more fun than swapping out my diff. I was between London and Edinburgh and thought it was a failing UJ and limped in at 3am. Inspection showed the driveshaft was fine but the pass side diff stud had snapped, which I think allowed the suspension to act as a slide hammer on the side of the diff for 100 or so miles. I cut the seized stud out with a recip hacksaw. I've put it all back together, but now have waaaay to much in and out play on the passenger side output shaft, and an interesting noise when I turn right. what's the likely cause?
  5. Jim Henson's Eclat (kermit green with eye dots on the headlights) was stolen from his London home whilst he was overseas and has never been recovered (to the best of my knowledge).
  6. Yep - as above - it is possible, but an utter PITA of a job swapping out the wheel cylinder with the diff in place.
  7. I can confirm from experience that the car will run fine without it removed, but if you park it nose down, you will lose the entire tank of fuel. It is there for a reason.
  8. Hi everybody - I'm Dunc from the elite/eclat section. A friend is clearing up her fathers affairs and has discovered a 1970 S2 Europa in a barn that hasn't turned a wheel since 1986. Its the renault engined one, and appears to be complete, although covered in dust. Its in gold leaf colours and on mini/superlites. I'm told it has cracks around the door hinges, and aside from a missing rear window, appears complete. It has been stored inside. I'm good a valuing elites and eclats, but slightly out of my comfort zone on europas. What is a project like this worth in todays market (I have no knowledge of the chassis condition). £3-5K ?
  9. Kenda used to do a 205 60 14 fairly recently if you need a V rated tyre for German compliance. You could have a look for some of them perhaps Steffen?
  10. Michael's pictures certainly cheered me up, hope they do the same for Oliver. Give him my best.
  11. I'm interested - ping me the details. If I'm not working late, I'd like to join.
  12. Did this car come from Wales? I seem to remember a silver eclat on a spyder chassis with an interior described as "mouse nibbled" when advertised for sale. I also seem to remember it being on fancy alloys 5 to 10 years back (compomotives?) I have to say it looks great in the "after" pics. Well done for saving it. Liking the morini also.... We have another in our group thats a Lotus Wedge/Moto Morini enthusiast. Dunc
  13. Its not that much of a pain, but things to buy/find before embarking on this job: Wide "feather splitter" style chisel and hammer a long lever/wide prybar or crowbar A pop rivetter and some new rivets A drill set of suitable size for drilling out the rivets, and a set of punches a tin of Isopon P40 or similar for shoring up the inside of the sill cover (It'll make all sorts of horrible cracking noises when you lever it off two or three large aerosols of primer and satin black paint. If you are doing the job on your own, some silicone sealant is helpful for holding the spreader plate in position whilst you get inside the car. (probably) a replacement set of mounts. I know you say they look okay through the gap in the sill cover, but that turning without unscrewing is suggestive of the captive nut breaking away from the spreader plate. If you can weld a nut on some plate, you can make your own. The job itself is pretty simple - just drill out all the little pop rivets, and lever the sill cover off as you go. Mine was held in place with a sort of mastic/adhesive type stuff as well as the pop rivets, so neaded some persuasion with a large flat prybar. The structural integrity of my cover was compromised during removal (cracks in the corners) so I shored it up with Isopon P40 glassfibre repair on the inside corners. I then rubbed them down, primed them and sprayed them in the original satin black. On a series 1 car, refurbing the sill covers and the front and rear bumpers with satin black is probably the best value for money job you can do. It really lifted the appearance of my yellow 521.. have fun! Dunc
  14. Paul was a lovely chap. Saw him around this time last year when I popped out to Norfolk to buy a set of Buick 300 heads off him. We had a proper natter about cars and bikes. One of natures nice people and a proper petrolhead, definately one of us. Condolences to his family and all who knew him. Rest peacefully sir. Dunc
  15. The UJ joints are landrover S3 propshaft joints and they survive in Landrovers without issue. Our issue is the wider angle of deflection and the shocks that the suspension transmits into the joint. I did some research a while back and a supplier mentioned going for a joint with a thrust washer would help. These joints have been on the left hand driveshaft of my eclat taking punishment for some time without failure. I thought I had finally broken them during our NC500 run last summer, but stripping it down showed the movement to come from a knackered diff rather than movemenmt in the joint. Dunc
  16. I read the "critique" from an engineer owner who had fitted the spyder top link conversion to his elite published his thoughts on the web (his was not a spyder donnington - just an elite with a Spyder top link mount kit fitted, so retained the lotus diff and shafts, but with modified hubs and a CV joint driveshaft from a Sierra). He felt the height of the inboard mount for the Spyder top link on the chassis was too low, and wanted to experiment with welding a "tower" onto his chassis to raise the position of the inboard upper link mount. He described "roll oversteer" and after spending a fair bit converting his car, went back to the standard Lotus setup, noing a vast improvement. I recall he wrote that fundamentally he still believed a top link was the way to go, but wanted to develop it to make it work to his satisfaction before refitting it. I dont think he ever updated the blog again, which was a shame as he was knowledgable and had done a proper engineering analysis/appraisal. I recall Spyder used to produce a number of chassis "upgrades" for our cars, with tubular rear arms offered (I have a pair) and I seem to recall a "wide track" front end conversion allowing the use of a vented disc from a ford. A good friend has recently acquired a Donnington, so hopefully we can have a play with it and find out what its like. He reckons it needs setting up as it doesnt seem to drive very well. I have one of those Laser pointer alignment things that I bought myself for christmas, so I'm hoping we can sort it out and get everything pointing in the right direction. Too many projects... lol On the handling of the eclat v excel - I've owned both and they drive totally differently to each other. Both are undoubtedly fine handling cars, but my prference was for the Eclat. Admittedly my Excel was tired and desperately needed a new set of dampers, so perhaps an unfair comparison, but I preferred the way the eclat drove and handled. Perversely, I also preferred the eclats brakes, being very disappointed in the braking performance of the all round discs of the excel. I suspect the single pot calipers on the excel are the week point in comparison to the triple pots up front on the elite/eclat. My feeling was that some fettling of the standard brakes in the Excel could yield huge improvements - I looked at a Previa ABS twin pot caliper, which gave a bigger clamp area and looked like it would bolt straight up to the carrier, but sold the Excel on to a new owner before investigating further. Dunc
  17. thanks - nothing broken, just muscular tears and bruising I think. I had crash bungs and sliders fitted, so bike not as bad as it could have been. Brake pedal badly bent, abrasion on exhaust, rad shroud broken, mirrors damaged, and sacarficial sliders destroyed, but other than that, not too bad. I have plastic motocross style hand guards fitted, and they seem to have acted as bar sliders, so will replace them also. If nothing else it is an excuse to buy more carbon fibre bits as it is cheaper than buying plastic rad shrouds from Kawasaki.
  18. I commute every day on my Z-1000. I fell off last week and I'ma bit sore... Shoulder a bit unhappy... 😞
  19. Hi Pete, I think adding shims between the drum and flange will add a smidgen of positive camber, but I suspect only by a tiny bit as the radius rods in play. I'm not sure what it will do to toe - widening the track behind a fixed pivot would ordinarily invoke some toe in, but given the radius rod is behind the shaft, the hub will splay towards toe out at the same time? My point was more that you can buy adjustable upper wishbone mounts/links for other conventional IRS cars that make adjustment a breeze, but on the elite and eclat it becomes a proper pain in the @rse....
  20. Well done for taking that one on. I saw it advertised and thought it looked a snip at the price. I would have taken it on myself under different domestic/financial circumstances as it looks like a lot of hard work has already been done. Excellent to see that a car used in adverts has survived! If you want it on the little register I keep, mail me at [email protected] 🙂
  21. Yep :-) thats why the Elite and Eclat shouldn't be lowered with shorter springs: There is no way of adjusting the rear camber to compensate as the car is lowered, causing a lowered eclat or elite to squat on the inside of its rims. The rear suspension follows a prescribed arc as the suspension compresses, allowing the car to effectively lean over on its outside tyre as the car rolls into a corner. I believe this body roll/negative camber relationship is what provides the Lotus handling magic and if you drop the ride height it upsets the roll angle. We had a breif discussion of this on Charlie Crokers air ride car thread. For it to work effectively, its got to be riding at standard ride height - and for me, that kind of defeats the the point of installing air ride. An excel would have been a better choice for installing variable ride height, but Charlie didnt seem fussed as it was designed for the look, and to be a talking point on the scene, rather than cornering performance.
  22. Lotus Elite/Eclat tubular trailing arms from Spyder engineering. Also known as rocking horse poopie....
  23. Here is a pic of the tubular trailing arms that Spyder used to make for Elite's and Eclats. Might be a helpful reference. (Spyder lost the dimensions years ago and cant make them any more - they are very heavy compared with the lotus box steel ones).
  24. On the elite and eclat, I dont think it does Filip.... When your cranking - the key is turned further in the barrel, and the coil on a ballast ignition car gets its voltage from the link wire to the starter solenoid. I think the ignition key only gives power to coil through its ballasted pink high recistance wire when you release it from the spring loaded "start" position to the normal "run" ignition position. I had a car which would only fire when I released the key from the "Start" position. It would wind over and over with nothing, then kick into life when I released the key.
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