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modifiedv8engines

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About modifiedv8engines

  • Rank
    LOTUS
  • Birthday 31/12/1958

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  • Gender
    Male

More Info

  • Name
    Paul
  • Car
    Esprit V8, TVR, Porsche, Land Rover, Ducati
  • Modifications
    200 CEL Cats, K&N's. Centre Exit Zorst, OZ Superleggera split rims
  • Location
    Norfolk

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  1. Engine out job unfortunately and makes sure you use replacement stainless steel lock tabs. Be careful when removing the broken stud ( if broken below the casting surface) as these are a blind hole and you need to watch you dont drill into the head casting otherwise you will create another problem. This if it occurs can be solved but better to be aware of the potential issues before you start. The low torque rating for these stud nuts which I recall is something like 6 - 10 ft/lbs, is to allow for thermal expansion and prevent the manifolds cracking. The manifolds expand and contract when they get hot ......very hot when boosting .......and then cooling after engine stopped. Quite common for exhaust manifold bolts/nuts to work loose on any engine and the Esprit tends to suffer from this quite a lot and more so than any of the numerous V8 engines I have built and worked on road or track. In fact I probably hear of one/two type similar problems per week with rough running some of which can be attributed to sensors, but also head gasket failure and air leaks from the inlet and exhaust manifolds. Good Luck
  2. Also consider air leaks from the inlet manifold and exhaust manifold. This can also lead to slightly rough running and an air leak will lead to a weak mixture. Exhaust manifold studs are a known weak point so have an inspection in that area.
  3. Being located fairly close to Haverhill there may be a chance I can take my car along for a measure up/install. I am waiting for further information re prices etc etc. Pretty much as Mike said .........The guy I spoke with said it may be possible to produce kits but only cost effective to do so if they can tool up for a batch of kits to make it worthwhile. Since my car has no a/c condensor and requests for info on those a while back fell on deaf ears, I would need some dims of those to allow cars fitted with a/c to be catered for. Pre rad goes in fron of the stack I beleive See whats happens ......
  4. Sorry to say but you wont get anywhere with petitions etc etc and sorry for sounding defeatist Several years back I completed a MSc in Envirnonmetal Impact Assessement and Auditing. My slant ...... Governments and Councils only pay "lip service" to the requirements to maintain the environment and in terms of Impact assessments, the planners just work around the regulations. Environmental Statements .......not worth the time or effort....even if the habitats are ruined and peoples lives affected...... More houses = more council tax = more money = more power
  5. Used the original dipstick tube with the rusted lower part cut off. Sourced a piece of 3/8" a/c thin wall copper tube to make up the lost/rusted length. Attached the copper tube to the engine block using the old union nut and olive and then slid some flexi tube over the joint and held that in place with a couple of clips. Works perfectly although a little bit trial and error to get the dipstick reading correct as I wasnt 100% sure how long the original tube was. Used dipstick itself as a rough estimator for overall tube length with 107mm of tube inserted into the engine block (107mm not critical) Copper more resistant to steel in terms of corrosion so should last a while and a kind of "stop gap" fix until sometime in the future when I or another owner needs to pull the engine for service/repair. Copper also nice and easy to bend by hand. If these tubes were made in 2 sections they could be fitted with engine in situ rather than the need for engine removal. Hope this helps someone else who has the same or similar issue.
  6. Thanks for responding Mike. Think its a case of "under car oil level checks" for the time being. Shame of it is, its done very few miles ( estimate 500mls in 7 years) since the engine was last out and this job was really a last job ( other than a couple of bits of paint) to do before offering the car for sale. Quite a presentable and quick car, mechanically pretty good, gearbox rebuilt, leaking manifolds studs replaced, refaced flywheel, new clutch, rebuilt turbos, new turbo pipes, gearbox linkage cables, new coolant rad. GAZdampers, factory springs, wheel bearings, drilled discs + spares, such as rear spoiler, new turbo, targa roof and solid type with bags, new std pistons, liners, camshafts, bearings, used AP Racing 4 pot calipers and other than a few bits of paint to do, I think its time to let this one go. Also has OZ 19/[email protected] 3pce Split rims + factory wheels in reasonable shape. Never really gelled with this one for various reasons , so may be a good time to reduce my "fleet" and tinker with my other vehicles instead. Not really intended this as an ad for the car but it wont be me that hauls that engine out again ... Paul
  7. Has anyone managed to replace the dipstick tube on their V8 without removing the exhaust manifold, turbo, turbo plumbing, exhaust system etc etc. or resorting to engine removal. Long story but need to replace my hand made alloy tube ( dont ask ) which I installed some time ago when the engine was out and with the manifolds etc in place. Couple of places now appear to make this obsolete part which is good news but fitting the stupidly designed serpentine shaped thing isnt.
  8. Ian Mine look to have been repaired before so guesses are after this repair and another 0-10 years they may go again. Just checked the other gauges whilst "in there" and boost gauge has also cracked around the pod to bezel area and was hanging on by 10mm or so of white egg shell/plastic. The other two gauges had no "O" rings so this wouldnt have helped - will however install with the o rings to help cushion. Not a major job but great shame need to be doing this in the first place .........more irritation than anything else but we all know this and is part of the ownership thing with these cars. Weathers nice so should get a nice tan whilst working in the "green house" Thanks for your help Cheers Paul
  9. Thanks Lads Bit of a bodge but £2.50 tube of superglue and seems to have worked okay. Both gauges had sheared directly below where the bezel sits so could I suppose add a second layer of rtv sealant to act as a buffer/cushion and just nip up the gauges onto the panel to hold in place. Bit of a crapy old design really as never had such failures in many many years of car and motorcycle ownership.....probably an "o" ring the diameter of the gauge and either side of the gauge when fitted may have prevented this occuring in the first place.
  10. Apparently a fairly common problem but cant find much about repair or replacment. Both my Clock and Fuel Gauge pods have cracked where the bezel mounts leading to both instruments dropping down in the instrument binnacle. Spend a few hours looking for the so called 4 bolts to remove the intrument cluster but ended up just removing the top binnacle. ( two cross head screws either end of the binnacle and one longish bolt under the dash near the steering column) Glass and black bezel in tack but looks like the white plastic part that houses the intrument(s) is cracked/broken ? Anyone found replacments or an effective repair ? Thanks Paul
  11. Many Thanks for your responses chaps and thanks for the "sketches" Dave. Thanks for the pointer with the brackets as it a lot of work to get these made and if I can source from Hi Spec, its a big head start. Quick tip here .......if anyone decides to recon their AP calipers firstly the link pipes are loctited in place (difficult to remove) and second wouldnt recommend using any citrus based cleaning products to clean the pistons as it eats into the hard anodiziing and results in a less than smooth surface finish. Expensive mistake ! Cheers Paul
  12. Hi All Having recently aquired a pair of AP Racing radial mount calipers ( Sport 350 type in Blue CP5200) that need work, I assumed a braking system upgrade would be possible to replace the Brembro fronts on my V8. However .........appears I need some brackets - pair of CP2494-1110 Anybody have a pair or failing that, images, dims or an engineering drawing ? Had a quick search for info on here and seems a few have carried out the conversion but some time ago Any suggestions or help much appriciated Cheers Paul
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