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  1. Have searched but cant seem to find any solutions for the water ingress through the rear deck vents on the V8 engine. My car lives outside and other than placing covers over the vents when not in use, is there or has anyone come up with a solution ? Aware there was a drain pipe mod on later rocker/valve covers but those in the know suggest water ingress, condensation still causes or can cause electrical gremlins in this area.
  2. Most American V8 engines ( cross plane cranks) SBF, SBC etc etc have an upper rev limit generally of about 6000 rpm. NASCAR engines running to 9000rpm would be the exception and the dynamic balance on those engines would be very tight 0.05gm or less. Rover V8 engines for example manufactures tolerances for balancing were +/- 2.00gm > 1985. After 1985 they reduced the tolerance to approx 1.0gm. For the many Rover V8 engines I have built and where these were to be used for comp safari, rally raid ( all 4 x4) or circuit use we would balance to "clubman Spec" which is +/- 0.1gm. The MGB CC championship cars (3.9 Rover V8 Engines) however use a flat plane crank ( Like the Esprit V8) and running carbs, distributor ignition see rolling road figures of approx 410 - 420 BHP @ 8200rpm. These engines are balanced to +/- 0.05gm Not sure what the Lotus spec was but I would suggest a tolerance of +/- 0.05gm would be good. This would require the con rods to be balanced end to end accurately and the piston masses to be of a similar value. However there tends to be some variation with forgings as there is with cast pistons and therefore the accuracy of the total balance would be as good as the piston weight/mass. Items such as piston pins, bearings, piston rings tend to be consistant with little variation. Removing small amounts of weight from a piston is possible but not advisable ( easy to weaken) whereas removal of weight from con rods is acceptable and adding weight ( tungsten inserts) or removing weight from crankshaft counterweights by drilling or grinding is the accepted method. However care needs to be taken to avoid damage from swarf or grinding dust on the bearing journals. After balancing crankshaft assemblies are normally washed and then dried, oil way blown through and cleaned with pipe cleaners then oiled ready to install. The engine builder should check bearing and all oil ways before assembly. I am reasonably sure that the Lotus V8 crank is internally balanced and not externally balanced as my flywheel when removed some years ago and from memory, had balance drillings but no additional weights bolted to the flywheel or harmonic damper assembly. Internal balanced engines tend to rev more freely and not having weights on the flywheel means if a flywheel needs to be changed, as long as that is zero balanced ( neutral) the complete rotating assembly would not need to be balanced again when the flywheel or clutch cover was changed. In the video posted above which is an externally balanced engine, the weights bolted on the flywheel have an influence of the total balance and if the flywheel was changed and the incorrect balance weights installed or removed, the engine would vibrate, shake and not last too long. There are journals written on dynamic balancing and for a complete write up, and if you have the time and inclination, worth a read but you may find it has the same effect as several pints or a sleeping tablet !
  3. Hi Chris - got mine from SW Lotus Centre. And Thanks Filip - Warmer weather arriving here again soon so they say, so although the cars needs a couple of minor jobs, I hope to get a few trips out before the winter arrives.
  4. Thats what I was aiming for Dave but the bloody gates were closed so the car park was my photo shoot location. Came out okay all the same.
  5. Probably about 5 minutes before you lot. Another time perhaps chipp ....
  6. Thanks for that. Colour is Midnight Blue Metalic ......not a common colour but quite subdued comparred to the reds, yellows etc etc
  7. Another one for the thread. ....Just to prove it runs okay after the last few weeks headaches ! My 97 Esprit V8 taken at the late Colin Chapmans home yesterday (Kettringham Hall) & former Team Lotus HQ ( hallowed ground indeed).
  8. If you get stuck Bibs and an early V8 might do the job........Im 10 minutes from Lotus so fuel costs would be minimal (that should keep the magazine happy !) and since the car went to the late Mr Chapmans home today, another Lotus outing to its birthplace (assuming the photoshoot is @ Hethel )......just let me know.
  9. Just to complete the post & the satisfactory conclusion to the Esprits (and mine) past dramas. MOT passed okay - a few shortish trips to shake down and car runs about 95% + good. Just a low boost issue to resolve ( suspected bank #2 wategate diaphagm/spring) and the wiff of unburnt fuel when on boost. (looks like I will be viewing the old girls underside close up again soon) The car that is, and No ! not her's indoors. Starting has never been better, car pleasurable to drive and best its ever been other than the low boost. Love it !
  10. Yes at long long last Mike. Hope this is the end of it as it has taken some time to resolve. Reasonably confident but have said that before as I seem to recall ! Cheers Paul
  11. Latest news ....after much work, head scratching, head banging, requests for assistance, cuts, bruises, hands/arms that look like I have been fighting a Wild Cat, I can report today the latest episode of "Man vs Esprit" ended in my favour. About effing time too and subject to an MOT next week, some much deserved drives. Not a quick job to do on axle stands - New alternator installed ( no need to move or remove anything, just spanners, 8,13,17mm & sockets, tape to hold the nut/washer on the top mounting and a 1/2wrench to slacken/tighten the belt - string comes in handy to allow the alt to swing over and hold when installing the top bolt/nut), partly fried signal wire cut-back, repaired and soldered, replacement bulb for the charge "idiot" light (yes I know should have checked this first but in hindsight..... ) and engine purrs, no smoke haze, no popping from bank #1 cylinder bank and voltmeter confirms 14.6 v. .......charging. Thanks to you all for your valuable input and help. On inspecting the rattly old alternator it appears the brushes or similar have broken up ........this I suspect was the high pitched/dentist drill sound I heard when first running the car in July this year. Smoke haze from turbo possibly residual oil from standing for months and the new fuel pumps, coils, plugs, relays etc etc should prevent issues in those areas for a while. Looking forward to test drive on route to the MOT ( the long way )
  12. Thanks for that info Tony. Not an easy job unless you have a ramp as access is limited but is possible with patience but I wouldnt want to do it twice and a valuable tip on checking the charge light once the new alternator is fitted.
  13. Thanks Alan, thats very helpful ......but mine doesnt ! Been more than a bit transfixed over that engine check light which should perhaps have a demons head lit up, a £ sign or a miserable face emoji rather than the soft yellow glow Completely overlooked the charge tell-tale light in my haste to resolve the engine running issues. More than a bit tired of it tbh and something it seems no-one else other than @tmusc had thought to mention .....but I suppose why would they. Always the small things that are overlooked ......and I think ramp required (thats if I can get to a ramp)
  14. Good point Tony - my brother mentioned similar 5 minutes ago and asked if the charge warning light was on .... which it wasnt. Other than instrument binnacle removal is there any other way to check this bulb ? Out of interest Mike, in the above post .....was the alternator warning light illuminated ?
  15. New alternator on order. Also checked voltage from battery - ve to engine block with engine running , 0.02 volts so nothing unusual there. Maybe the going round and round in circles has stopped. We shall see
  16. Battery voltage checked this morning before starting - 12.4 volts. Cranked okay, fired up and engine running smooth (8 cylinders !). Alternator voltage checked across battery terminals @ idle 11.4 volts similar @ 2000rpm New alternator required ! (cross reference anyone)
  17. Not checked the alternator Mike as other than few short runs Wednesday been concentrating efforts on establishing a smooth running engine. Cant rule the charging circuit, however a fully charged battery should have enough charge to run for several miles without he alternator but it could be the battery plates or something shorting and discharging quickly.
  18. Thanks Barry. I did run an extra earth strap from the battery negative to the chassis some time ago as cranking from cold always seemed a bit lethargic (that helped). Will try a jump lead from battery to block and see if that helps. As swindon alan said in his post, whats causes the confusion is more current would be required to start form cold but this is the reverse so it seems but corrosion between the wire strands could well be the cause of this issue. May even explain the popping and less than correct running on one bank of cylinders. Had considered that the battery was possibly knackered as only a few starts and a couple of short runs wouldnt normally result in a low voltage battery. Will test battery voltage this morning before I attempt to start the engine.
  19. Thanks Barry ......running out of ideas Tanks were drained when I installed the new fuel pump assembly, fresh Shell 99 octane fuel - 5 gallons , injectors flow tested so electrical gremlins likely. Paranoia creeping in perhaps but gauges seem to fluctuate and im talking oil pressure, and temp gauge fault perhaps but that said, if the engine to chassis earth was bad then starting or lights etc would not function and these are okay. Cursing solves nothing but sure does help sometimes .......neighbours probably think I have tourettes though
  20. The saga continues ....... Removed parts including cats, exhaust re-installed. Cranked over fast yesterday and although a little smokey initially ran pretty good. Engine pulls strong and without misfire although with window open, get the odd whiff of fuel and can still hear the odd popping from one bank of cylinders. Thoughts were to run for a bit to see if it sorts itself out and added a few gallons of 99 octane shell + some Redex fuel treatment into tank . Engine warning light on possibly due to running without cats/O2 sensors. Car booked in for MOT. Start car this evening ......purrs and runs smooth. No engine check lights !! Then as per my first posts on this thread - reverse, then forward onto highway, few hundred yards and then turn left, misfire and running on 6 or 7 cylinders. Nurse the throttle up the hill and back on 7 sometimes 8 cylinders. (thinking FPR) as with some throttle it appears to run okay-ish (thought I had verified the FPR was working correctly before with fuel pressure tester, engine running and vacuum pipe removed from FPR and pressure drops, reinstall and back to correct fuel pressure indicated by gauge) Drive around the block approx 2 miles and not running right. Return to base, park and switch off, running on less than 8 cylinders . Fuel pump relays checked and these are warm ( not hot just warm) Pulled these and installed 2 new TYCO relays (delivered today) which the supplier said are the same as the Siemens items and sourced from Louts so will be okay. Anyone know different then please advise. Fired up after much cranking, running on 5/6 or so cylinders. Stop engine, re-installed old relays and not enough charge to start hot engine ... (not checked voltage - poor light) and besides bit pissed off with it anyway Working on my own with this other than forum assistance so am I missing the obvious .......??
  21. Many Thanks. Will update this post when I get to that steady state Mike, soon-ish I hope.
  22. Bloody marvelous - after chasing this problem for a few weeks and doing this that and the other...think I have solved it, well almost. Yesterday after yet more extensive reading, fired up the engine again ( no cats etc) ....let it warm a bit and blipped the throttle several times........voila ! smoke haze As per above, old Siemens relay fitted so can only conclude its a intermitant relay fault/issue. Not wanting to tempt fate but expect if I try again today it may be okay or not .......relay or relay socket as this area is under the rear wing mountings so water may have got in there perhaps. Need to order another so that part number if not available from Lotus would be very helpful (or a link to the your post sailor bob). Looking at the positives, new plugs, injectors seals, secondary seals, coil packs, fuel pumps, fuel filter, tank cleaned out, fresh fuel and various checks on injectors for flow etc etc. So those are known to be good and shouldnt play up for some time. Brilliant help and without this forum I would have been well and truly knackered. ( Whoops I still havent renewed my subs) ....get that done today Bibs !
  23. Minded you mentioned that some time ago Mike.....could be that I suppose so just need to find a local car to test my ECU.
  24. Thanks Mike Did I read somewhere the Brown SEIMANS Fuel Pump Relay was a the only relay suitable for these cars ? Replaced with a new Land Rover AMR something or other - Put the old Siemans relay back in and seems to spin the engine over much faster !!! (stumbled on this one when removing fuel pump relays to double check for sparks from the coil, leads to the plugs ) If I pull the fuel pump relay to isolate the injectors and pump - I get no sparks to an earth position, like a plenum bolt and by that I mean spare plug, pushed into plug boot and earthed) With cat pipes removed @ idle no oil/fuel smoke ......apply some throttle and smoke haze on the overun on bank #1 turbo but no oil.... just its over fueling Bank #2 turbocharger wastegate poppet valve loose/rattling so that helps to partly explain the rattles/popping noises from exhaust which I wouldnt of found without removal so solved something today. Seem to be going round and round in circles thinking haunted, thinking ghostbusters I really cant think WTF is going on with this car injectors, secondary injector seals, coil packs etc etc all of which have been checked or tested and still not much further forward ..
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