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Everything posted by doct93

  1. Struggling with no internet, but it bounced that address back to me..... Tim
  2. Just started to get pump running too often plus flashing abs light on the GT3...... Accumulator changed, have a pressure switch to try, but not hopeful. Have I missed the boat for this excellent sounding conversion? Tim
  3. If the mounts for the diffuser are the same as the GT3, you can get them off and new ones back on without taking the bumper off. I did mine in the summer - you can undo the small bolts underneath the bumper and flex the plastic enough to get your hand in. The mounts themselves are bolted into the bottom of the boot. I made new ones out of some angle aluminium I had lying about and epoxied nuts on as I didn't have any rivnuts.... Then can jam arm inside bumper, hold them in place while helper screws bolts in. Then diffuser will bolt back on properly, rather than being held on just by the bumper plastic, as mine was. If the diffuser mounts are ok, should just be one bolt each side, accessed via holes in the underside.
  4. Yup, but only £15 each, so not too painful.... Tim
  5. Delphi SS10805 work on the fronts of my '97 GT3. Its a crank sensor, is a bit long and plug not quite right, but fits and works. Need a pair on the front otherwise get ABS light, but are cheap and available. Tim
  6. Delphi SS 10805 (its a crank sensor) fits my '97 GT3. Need to fit a pair on the front or you get an ABS error, they are a bit too long, so need a spacer (20ml syringe cut down works well!) and need to drill the mounting plate to fit a bolt to hold them in. The plug is close enough that it fits with a bit of wiggling and they are only about £15 ish each. The sensor itself fits perfectly down the hole, you wouldn't need to bolt it down to be honest. Tim
  7. All welded and good so far..... Anyone got or know of a new (second hand) one? Tim
  8. Symptoms were fast idle that the IAC valve couldn't control, popping and misfiring at idle and some coolant loss that didn't show up when I did a UV test. Changed the IAC valve anyway, along with the Lambda sensor, no change. TPS reading fine on freescan. Did a smoke test with home made generator and was convinced had leak from underneath manifold at both sides.
  9. Apparently is through the water jacket and difficult to get at, but am hoping is weldable. Havent seen it as is at SWLC - I didn't fancy taking it off with no shelter from our lovely British weather! I did make a great home made coffee tin smoke generator to diagnose it though...... Tim
  10. Hello all, The inlet manifold on my GT3 has cracked and they appear to be very difficult to source. Has this happened to anyone else? Does anyone have one spare, or know anyone who does? Does anyone have a recommendation on who can make a new one if the worst comes to the worst? Cheers, Tim
  11. Quick update to anyone with the same problem - have restored power to windows by bridging the switched (from ignition) live pin to the brown/white output pin that goes to the window switches. Both windows still power through the appropriate fuses and now the switches don't light unless the ignition is on. Resoldering the module not successful, am wondering what exactly it does and why I would need it? Am a little concerned as to why it would need a 40v capacitor..... Tim B
  12. Mine were doing the same, needed the contacts cleaning on the pod delay module. Now back to normal, about 4 secs up then back down. Tim B
  13. I feel your pain, am still sore from doing mine today...... Tim B
  14. I've just had the majority of my instruments out today, fitting a new temp gauge... Pretty much all are cracked, and the worst thing is I must have knocked a wire off wrestling the binnacle back on, now the temp rises serenely to maximum, was fine prior to binnacle fitting! Aaaargh, I hate that bolt, so don't want to do it again...... Hey ho, assume the Lotus position......... Tim B
  15. Could be option d) replace all the components on the PCB then.....! Tim
  16. Sorry to bump an old topic - I'm having a problem with my GT3 windows not working. I suspect the window voltage module, but these are no longer available. Apparently the USA cars had a bypass plug instead? Does anyone either: a) have a spare module I could buy off them? Or b) know which pins the bridging / bypass plug connects together? Otherwise it's c) rewire the whole thing with some different relays.... Thanks in advance, Tim
  17. Sorry I couldn't make it - got very wet instead, but can now at least cook things again..... Tim
  18. Not sure - I have the horrible feeling I am walking a horsing cross country course and buying a new cooker...... Tim
  19. Yes, was earlier this year to try and catch better weather. I went on Sunday in the GT40 - was a nice enough afternoon out, loved the Stratos replica, but agree that the inside seemed a bit short on cars...... TimB
  20. Odd, but my GTD40 has 2 fillers, as does the Aston, as does my recently disposed of Jag XJ6..... The GT3 only has one though......I kind of miss having two! TimB
  21. doct93


    I voted no - I don't use calendars either, but no problem if enough people want one........ TimB
  22. Have made a big effort and moved to Gin and Slimline Tonic during the week, for the sake of my figure......! Wine for the weekends though, several. TimB
  23. Electronic is the way to go - all of the enjoyment, none of the smell and hopefully less of the harm! TimB
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