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    84 Turbo Esprit

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  1. yes that was our first thought but looking at the ball joins we did not have enough meat around the holes to machine a slot and give the required adjustment range. You could slot the holes in the FTWBs and / or weld new bushes to the outboard end of the FTWBs, we just figured the way we went was more straight forwards and easier to jig. Not sure what you mean about the poly bushes as the installation still runs washers each side of the wishbone. You are always a little compromised with castor change under hard braking on the 84 S3, that's why Lotus did the update with trailing arm on the
  2. Hi one of my projects for lockdown has been a full geo on the car. I am fortunate enough in that I can check it in my garage and most of the settings can be adjusted. Both front and rear cambers were out. Rears I corrected by making some adjustable top links with parts supplied by Lotusbits. However adjustable front links are more difficult to get. I ended up measuring the front camber (1.5 / 0.2 deg) and calculating the length changes needed. The left front top had to be lengthened as I had 1 deg too much camber, the right top had to be shorted as I had too little. With a lot of help fr
  3. I just got a key cutter to do mine and he sorted them perfectly, I even have a locking boot now which is nice!
  4. if you have any grease you can probably look up the data sheet on the manufacturers web site and see if it is suitable. I must admit I would be surprised if any compromised the strength of the gears but I guess worth checking.
  5. its probably worth being clear what you mean by radius arm. Certainly to change the bushes in the top transverse link (top wishbone on S3) or what I would call the radius arm (the box section running forward from the upright to the chassis) you do not need to compress the springs. I know this as did exactly this job a few weeks ago. However if you mean the bottom wishbone then perhaps you do (I did not have to disconnect this).
  6. I have done two now. I pulled the old one off and scraped all the glue residue off the glass fibre. I then glued 5mm foam over the whole roof to hide any imperfections and then glued the liner on top of this. Its slightly painful to do but not as bad as it sounds. Remove seats for sure. If you decide to do it I will check spec of glue but contact adhesive that is heat resistant is a must, the roof gets hot with the sun on it (and it will only get hotter with climate change!). C43
  7. your pictures are very similar to how I found mine, we just need some sunshine and to drive the cars a bit.... cheers Christian
  8. on my 84 turbo by breather pipe had got blocked with crud over the years. I would say worth taking out and giving a good clean as easy to do and without this working properly it will be difficult to get any condensation out of the engine. C43
  9. Hi did you get a solution to this? I have the same problem in that I don't have the key for the boot lock and given I am thinking of taking the Esprit for a couple of trips this summer I could really do with a locking boot. thanks C43
  10. Hi I agree the weather and lockdown is not exactly helping us put miles on the cars. I did do a CO2 test on mine a few nights ago. I let the car thoroughly warm up and reved it a few times and the test kit showed no issues with CO2 in the cooling system. Hopefully you will get the same result. cheers Christian
  11. I have replaced most of the rivnuts on my 84 turbo but I must admit I treat them like standard inserts when used in a composite structure and glue them in using araldite epoxy. C43
  12. the pictures look very similar to what I get with my freshly rebuilt 84 turbo engine so guess we can chill out (and enjoy the weed!).
  13. on my turbo (freshly rebuilt) I get a little on the dipstick but the car is driven so infrequently its not getting burned off. I did a compression check and they were all good (9.8 / 9.9 / 10.0 / 9.9) when cold. I did find if I fed the crank breather into a catch can rather than the intake the white emulsion got burned off quicker. As far as how much I have about 5mm worth right at the end of the dipstick. C43
  14. Depends on how much there is in there, I was working on the basis its not much. Reading the rest of the post and the fact the car has just come out the garage I agree with the other comments in terms of testing you can do and sending it back to the people who did the work in the first place.
  15. if the car has stood for a while and you then drive it you can get some emulsion on the dip stick. check under the oil filler cap and see if there is emulsion there, gives more indication. Also check the breather pipe between the block and the air filter is clear as restrictions here can cause an issue with excessive breathing out the dip stick hole. Then take it for a decent drive and get the oil hot and see if you still have an issue. C43
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