free hit
counters
Christian43's Content - The Lotus Forums #ForTheOwners Jump to content


Christian43

Basic Account
  • Posts

    106
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Christian43

  1. nice job on the photos. I am on my third Esprit and two out of the three have required tank changes, its a common problem I would say. C43
  2. Mine was missing also so went on ebay, bought some aluminium / fleece sandwich heat shield and made up a new one. Bit fiddly but got there in the end. I put captive nuts on the heatshield and bolted mine in place through the fixing holes shown.
  3. haha I spent time trying to work out the same question, twice! I don't believe they are handed i.e. they are the same left and right. Have a look at the parts book and see if they quote a different part number left and right.
  4. does the piston move back in at all or is it stuck both ways?
  5. pretty sure you can do it without removing the cable as long as the handbrake is off and there is not too much of a lip on the edge of the brake disc. Just remember not to hand the calliper on the brake line, support it with a tiewrap or similar.
  6. I set mine correct when it was a rolling chassis and then as the weight went in it was at least even either side. Tell the truth I am not sure it changed that much (although I can't remember for sure, I think it increased toe by 2mm each side going from a rolling chassis to a fully built up car but I could be wrong). Too much toe in is not a big issue (increased tyre wear and mid corner understeer), too much toe out can make the rear unstable and should be avoided IMO. Whilst it was a rolling chassis I did take the chance to fit adjustable top links as my turbo S3 did not have them. BTW you could fit captive nuts to the two bolts holding the shims / radius arm bush in place. I did not and it did take some fiddling to undo them but actually not as bad as I feared. I have attached a picture of the rear suspension on mine for no good reason other than I think it looks really cool, sorry!
  7. thanks guys. The car has recently been rebuilt so all new fuel lines. Like the sound or regular driving, just need to plant a few more trees to offset it all
  8. Question to the group has anyone looked into the implications of the change to E10 fuel. I live in a household of scientists so I totally understand the climate crisis, how serious it is and the need to act but I am just wondering what I will have to do to my Esprit to keep it running on E10. I think valve seats will be fine but I believe the rubber fuel lines will need checking to ensure they are compatible? Has anyone checked? thanks C43
  9. my AB14 most likely failed with heat soak (or something similar) to the components. I took my Esprit to the garage as it kept failing after 2mins 42sec of driving. The garage could not find a problem (despite changing every component on the car but the AB14) but I ended up changing the AB14 myself and it sorted the problem immediately and the car has been running well for a couple of years since then so pretty happy. I guess it could have been a vibration related problem but it really did seem to be related to the amount of time I drove the car for.
  10. BTW like you I have changed nearly everything in terms of the speedo. The only part I have not changed is the outer speedo cable. I am not sure how this can make the speedo wobble but was wondering if this could have an effect, did you try changing yours? Also did you try grease on the cable? I am using graphite lubricant but its quite dry and therefore no damping effect. I was wondering if grease on the cable would add some damping? I know but long shots but it is strange that we are having this problem.
  11. thanks for the post. I have had exactly the same problem as you. The speedo has now been rebuilt twice, as has the angle drive at the gearbox end. I even took the back of the gearbox off to check the internal drive gear. Have replaced the cable as well. The only thing I have not changed is the sleeve but I just can't believe its that. As you say its pretty irritating as otherwise my car is well sorted. I may try your solution. cheers C43
  12. I believe there is an amount of variability on exhaust fit as I know my turbo S3 was a bit of a pain to get clearance. Have a look and see if there is any witness marks of touching (polished area). If there is its too close. 6mm does not sound much but I don't really know how much an engine moves in service.
  13. Fingers crossed you have sorted it. It was similar on mine and the garage failed to diagnose it, I just changed the AB14 as I could not think of what else would fail so repeatedly after a set amount of time. I guess its the electronic components inside the unit failing under heat soak.
  14. I know they are 3.2mm countersunk but how long will depend a little on bodywork thickness as it will vary car to car. Also put a washer on the back.
  15. I have green LEDs in my 84 S3. They are much better for night driving, if anything a little on the bright side but I prefer it that way.
  16. if they can't help try PNM Engineering as they do replacement callipers. I am slightly surprised the thread is damaged on both callipers, you are unlucky.
  17. this is the comment from my brother who owns a JPS Esprit and has been through all possible options of gold looking for the correct ones, especially in the stickers. The code for the wheels is the same as that used on the Championship Gold S2 Esprit which is A04, it is easy to get hold of old paint colors used by Lotus. cheers C43
  18. yes that was our first thought but looking at the ball joins we did not have enough meat around the holes to machine a slot and give the required adjustment range. You could slot the holes in the FTWBs and / or weld new bushes to the outboard end of the FTWBs, we just figured the way we went was more straight forwards and easier to jig. Not sure what you mean about the poly bushes as the installation still runs washers each side of the wishbone. You are always a little compromised with castor change under hard braking on the 84 S3, that's why Lotus did the update with trailing arm on the front lower wishbone and separate FARB. I guess until someone does a full K&C test on both types of bushes the conversation will go on. In the meantime all I can say is on a twisty Oxfordshire country road pushing on pretty hard I can't feel any downside for the poly bushes. I did look at this and it should fit, however given we had machining capacity we decided to see what we could do ourselves.
  19. Hi one of my projects for lockdown has been a full geo on the car. I am fortunate enough in that I can check it in my garage and most of the settings can be adjusted. Both front and rear cambers were out. Rears I corrected by making some adjustable top links with parts supplied by Lotusbits. However adjustable front links are more difficult to get. I ended up measuring the front camber (1.5 / 0.2 deg) and calculating the length changes needed. The left front top had to be lengthened as I had 1 deg too much camber, the right top had to be shorted as I had too little. With a lot of help from a friend we manufactured a jig and got them welded up as shown in the photos below. We are both trained engineers so I am very confident in the solution. The top wishbone is only under compression / tension which makes engineering a solution much easier. If anyone wants any more details such as what length change gives what camber change then just ask. It actually worked out exactly as predicted and now both front cambers are to book at 0.5 deg. regards C43 actually on a connected topic I went from rubber to poly bushes in the front top wishbones at the same time. I have to say I can't feel any difference in harshness. If anything the car is a little more direct at the front feeling more connected between steering wheel and road wheels but this could be a result of the correction of camber or psychological from knowing the car is now setup correctly. But I would say no negative of the poly bushes. The rubber bushes had only done limited mileage so no age concerns to cloud the test.
  20. I just got a key cutter to do mine and he sorted them perfectly, I even have a locking boot now which is nice!
  21. if you have any grease you can probably look up the data sheet on the manufacturers web site and see if it is suitable. I must admit I would be surprised if any compromised the strength of the gears but I guess worth checking.
  22. its probably worth being clear what you mean by radius arm. Certainly to change the bushes in the top transverse link (top wishbone on S3) or what I would call the radius arm (the box section running forward from the upright to the chassis) you do not need to compress the springs. I know this as did exactly this job a few weeks ago. However if you mean the bottom wishbone then perhaps you do (I did not have to disconnect this).
  23. I have done two now. I pulled the old one off and scraped all the glue residue off the glass fibre. I then glued 5mm foam over the whole roof to hide any imperfections and then glued the liner on top of this. Its slightly painful to do but not as bad as it sounds. Remove seats for sure. If you decide to do it I will check spec of glue but contact adhesive that is heat resistant is a must, the roof gets hot with the sun on it (and it will only get hotter with climate change!). C43
×
×
  • Create New...