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Posts posted by Christian43

  1. 18 hours ago, bgalbraith said:

    The correct answer is to boil it in water for an hour or so, and use an expanding concrete anchor inside the tube to extract it out. I have used the old lead shield type anchor before, and have usually been successful. I have a difficult one, so I haven 8 mm expanding concrete anchor on order, which should be here tomorrow.


    like that one, nice trick, I may use that sometime


  2. I set mine correct when it was a rolling chassis and then as the weight went in it was at least even either side. Tell the truth I am not sure it changed that much (although I can't remember for sure, I think it increased toe by 2mm each side going from a rolling chassis to a fully built up car but I could be wrong). Too much toe in is not a big issue (increased tyre wear and mid corner understeer), too much toe out can make the rear unstable and should be avoided IMO. Whilst it was a rolling chassis I did take the chance to fit adjustable top links as my turbo S3 did not have them. 

    BTW you could fit captive nuts to the two bolts holding the shims / radius arm bush in place. I did not and it did take some fiddling to undo them but actually not as bad as I feared.

    I have attached a picture of the rear suspension on mine for no good reason other than I think it looks really cool, sorry!


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  3. Question to the group has anyone looked into the implications of the change to E10 fuel. I live in a household of scientists so I totally understand the climate crisis, how serious it is and the need to act but I am just wondering what I will have to do to my Esprit to keep it running on E10. I think valve seats will be fine but I believe the rubber fuel lines will need checking to ensure they are compatible? Has anyone checked?



  4. On 29/05/2021 at 18:28, Steve V8 said:

    Hi Brett, in my experience with the AB14 in Jags, they either work or they fail completely (no spark), and as far as heat soak goes on the early V12 jags the AB14 is situated between the heads so a much hotter spot than the Esprit, I'd be looking elsewhere. 


    my AB14 most likely failed with heat soak (or something similar) to the components. I took my Esprit to the garage as it kept failing after 2mins 42sec of driving. The garage could not find a problem (despite changing every component on the car but the AB14) but I ended up changing the AB14 myself and it sorted the problem immediately and the car has been running well for a couple of years since then so pretty happy. I guess it could have been a vibration related problem but it really did seem to be related to the amount of time I drove the car for.  

  5. BTW like you I have changed nearly everything in terms of the speedo. The only part I have not changed is the outer speedo cable. I am not sure how this can make the speedo wobble but was wondering if this could have an effect, did you try changing yours? Also did you try grease on the cable? I am using graphite lubricant but its quite dry and therefore no damping effect. I was wondering if grease on the cable would add some damping? I know but long shots but it is strange that we are having this problem. 

  6. thanks for the post. I have had exactly the same problem as you. The speedo has now been rebuilt twice, as has the angle drive at the gearbox end. I even took the back of the gearbox off to check the internal drive gear. Have replaced the cable as well. The only thing I have not changed is the sleeve but I just can't believe its that. As you say its pretty irritating as otherwise my car is well sorted. I may try your solution.



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  7. Fingers crossed you have sorted it. It was similar on mine and the garage failed to diagnose it, I just changed the AB14 as I could not think of what else would fail so repeatedly after a set amount of time. I guess its the electronic components inside the unit failing under heat soak.  

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  8. this is the comment from my brother who owns a JPS Esprit and has been through all possible options of gold looking for the correct ones, especially in the stickers.

    The code for the wheels is the same as that used on the Championship Gold S2 Esprit which is A04, it is easy to get hold of old paint colors used by Lotus.




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  9. 23 hours ago, andydclements said:

    I'm sure I've seen bad reports regard poly bushes in the top inner joints. With the arms moving fore/aft and so upsetting the castor angles. They have washers but are not as fixed as the old metalastic bushes are by nature.


    @Christian43 I'm surprised you didn't make the fronts adjustable in the same way as Lotus did on the later Esprits. The holes for the front ball joints are elongated, a metal stop is added near one set of holes, and a square spacer is made which has a hole off-centred. the adjustment is them by using the appropriate side of that square spacer, to move the bolt to the desired position, then both bolts are tightened holding it all in place.

    yes that was our first thought but looking at the ball joins we did not have enough meat around the holes to machine a slot and give the required adjustment range. You could slot the holes in the FTWBs and / or weld new bushes to the outboard end of the FTWBs, we just figured the way we went was more straight forwards and easier to jig. 

    Not sure what you mean about the poly bushes as the installation still runs washers each side of the wishbone. You are always a little compromised with castor change under hard braking on the 84 S3, that's why Lotus did the update with trailing arm on the front lower wishbone and separate FARB. I guess until someone does a full K&C test on both types of bushes the conversation will go on. In the meantime all I can say is on a twisty Oxfordshire country road pushing on pretty hard I can't feel any downside for the poly bushes.

    23 hours ago, CarBuff said:

    Where is the APPLAUSE button? 🙌


    This surely costs more than Christian's custom solution, but who has fitted SJ's adjustable front suspension on non-adjustable cars?




    I did look at this and it should fit, however given we had machining capacity we decided to see what we could do ourselves.


  10. its probably worth being clear what you mean by radius arm. Certainly to change the bushes in the top transverse link (top wishbone on S3) or what I would call the radius arm (the box section running forward from the upright to the chassis) you do not need to compress the springs. I know this as did exactly this job a few weeks ago. However if you mean the bottom wishbone then perhaps you do (I did not have to disconnect this). 


  11. I have done two now. I pulled the old one off and scraped all the glue residue off the glass fibre. I then glued 5mm foam over the whole roof to hide any imperfections and then glued the liner on top of this. Its slightly painful to do but not as bad as it sounds. Remove seats for sure. If you decide to do it I will check spec of glue but contact adhesive that is heat resistant is a must, the roof gets hot with the sun on it (and it will only get hotter with climate change!). 


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