machine7

Hi Justin, Just got your message via thingiverse. Am uploading it now, should be able to find it at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4405218 I'm not sure if it will work on an FDM machine, but hopefully it will give you something to work with.

They say that about plastics at the moment. If https://www.myheru.com/ devices are installed in all homes and businesses, then plastics and all waste becomes an energy source. (And based in Worcester too).

Washington D.C. vs New York and Canberra vs Sydney. Seems like financial beats political in those instances. Although Washington D.C. is probably catching up with all the pressure groups and vested interests.

Companies I have worked for use Ogle, always excellent quality, but that quality costs. Probably 4x what can be sourced from China, with 90% of the quality. You might like my latest print. Needed to stop my ER20 collets from rolling around in their drawer, and also an easy way to find out what size they are, so made one of these.

2010 Elise lights won't fit a 2005 Elise. 2005 have an outer lens and bezel that covers a recess in the bodywork. Later Elise have the outer lens and bezel bonded to a lamp housing, which drop into a hole in the bodywork. Very different and incompatible. However, as you have a 2005 Elise, I have spare LHD light clusters from when I had my Elise in the Netherlands. Part numbers A117M0091S and A117M0092S on: https://deroure.com/diagrams.asp?TBL=12284&MAK=1&MDL=11&SMA=0&SMO=0&ST=&SC=0 PM me if of interest.

And 3-pots. BMW i8 or Koenigsegg Gemera?

Hoax. https://www.snopes.com/fact-check/whatsapp-martinelli-phone-virus-warning/ Snopes is the place to check these things out

From Norfolk to English?

Think this is fairly standard practice for Lotus to just tie the cable directly to the wishbone. It has been done this way on my S2, but think the ABS cable is thinner/more flexible than yours looks, so haven't had a problem with rubbing like yours is showing. Maybe doing something like this would help keep your cable from rubbing the wishbone: https://www.instructables.com/id/Zip-Tie-Stand-offs/

Just thought I'd share some pictures of my 3D printed combined key & fob. The parts were printed on an SLA machine, with the text painted on afterwards. Very impressed by the detail that is possible on these machines, would never be possible on an FDM printer. If anyone is interested, I can add 3D files.

Many thanks to the tips. I had a go at it again with a blow torch to heat it up and after a few cycles of heating and hitting, there was enough of a gap between the brackets to be able to get a wedge in between. Still took a bit of heat to finally split them. I found it easiest to use the drive shaft as a guide for the hammer and hit the protruding flange of the driveshaft bearing holder, rather than hit on the bolt heads. I also tried applying heat with a hot air gun, supposedly gets to 630 degrees, but wasn't enough to get them to separate. Maybe I could have held it longer to get it hotter, but gave up and used the blow torch (~1750 degrees). Whilst it may be tempting to remove the bolts in the bracket into the engine bloc, this is of no benefit as there are 2 dowels locating the bracket to the engine block and so cannot be removed with the drive shaft. Hope this helps anyone else in the same situation.

Thanks Tom, I realised I had posted this in the wrong section, was hoping a moderator would be able to move it. Thanks for the suggestion Dave, I have tried hitting the bolts as you suggested, but so far to no avail. Will continue with the penetrating oil, and will try heat if it can be applied without risking the surrounding parts.

Hi, was wondering if anyone has any tips for separating the driveshaft bearing from its mount on the side of the engine block. I have removed the 2 bolts holding them together, but after 150k miles, the bearing holder on the shaft and the bracket on the engine don't want to separate. Bit weary of using heat in that area, as there are bearings and rubber cv joints close by. Undoing the bracket on the engine block doesn't help as one of the bolts is blocked by the drive shaft. Not sure if it would help anyway, as the shaft has to slide out of the gearbox, and the webbing on the engine block would stop that.

Got my set of AD08R from Blackcircles.com £390 for the set, then think it was about £48 to have them fitted. This the first set I've used, and are great compared to the Toyo proxes T1R I've run beforehand. T1R's have been a good all-year round tyre, never had any problems with them, even in snow. Haven't had to use the AD08R in snow yet, so not sure how they compare. The T1R's felt odd for the first 1000 miles, almost like the rubber had to harden in use. Especially true if just rears had to be changed.

If this is really true, why weren't their positive actions being shouted from the rooftops? Before the referendum, a list of their achievements would have gone a long way to persuading people to remain. I heard and was unable to find anything significant. So remove a layer of bureaucratic pigs troughing from the taxpayers toil, and let the individuals trade freely with each other without skewing the markets towards protectionism. Do you really think EU citizens would refuse to buy fish caught by British fishermen? They wouldn't care who caught it, as long as it is still available on their supermarket shelf. And if the consumption of fish from UK waters is cut by 80%, perhaps fish stocks would have a chance of recovering to a sustainable level. I say let the Dutch floating fish factory ply its trade in someone else's water. Australian have banned it already, happy if the UK were able to do the same.