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jansammut

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About jansammut

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    LO

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  • Name
    Jan Sammut
  • Car
    2004 Exige, 2003 Esprit V8, 1973 JPS Europa, 1969 Elan, 1962 Type 23B

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  1. Yes, thats exactly how I tested it. I'm starting to think the the issue is a false WOT signal from the ECU, however electrics are probably my weakest point in car DIY, so I reckon I'll hand it over to someone who knows what they're doing to sort out (as they'll be able to trace and fix much more efficiently than I can).
  2. I've finally made some time to get back on this issue and disassembled the control panel, unfortunately everything seems (to me at least) to be working fine here. With the fan running, the temp knob all the way on cold and the potentiometer on full power I get 8 - 10v across Yellow/Black (dependant on position) and Brown/Blue. Once I snap the potentiometer to the off position, I lose voltage across Yellow/Black, but it maintains voltage across Brown/Blue. Is there a temp. sensor in the cabin that might be at fault here and causing the AC not to trigger? If not I'm totally Stumped.
  3. Thank you! Double sided tape on a Lotus? Who would have ever imagined
  4. No screws under my knobs... Maybe I need to get in via the din slot? I re-uploaded that photo twice, but it still renders upside down when processed might be a formatting issue on my mobile
  5. Hi Guys; Does anyone have a clue as to how this can be removed on a 2002 V8? I need to access the AC potentiometer as it seems to be the cause of my AC not working but can't figure out how to remove it (and don't want to risk damaging the interior trying something stupid). Does it just prise out or do I go in from the DIN slot? Many TIA
  6. Hi Guys; The engine on my Exige blew a couple of weeks ago, I'v just gotten the attached photos from the garage, and it seems like some serious detonation was going on. The car was running 98 Petrol and the tank was brimmed (so I doubt it was fuel starvation). Pistons 2 and 4 melted, valves bent, bores are scoured, head pitted, a real mess. The Engine has standard internals with the full BOE TVS300 kit, 2Tubular exhaust, ITG intake, Moroso sump, and BOE map. It was running very rich, however I was informed that this was to keep temps down.. Does anyone have any idea what could have caused this? The BOE kit is supposed to be the safest one out there, so I'm trying to figure out how I can prevent this from ever happening again when I rebuild it. I've obviously contacted BOE, however third party input is more than welcome.
  7. So, I've got continuity between the Red/white and black wires at all times this seems very wrong With the ac on I get 12v between the blue/white and blue/brown wires. Should I get to work on the control panel?
  8. I have not checked that, does power there indicate that the switch is powering on correctly? Whereabouts is it located?
  9. Any idea how I would go about removing the heater control panel? I've looked in the service manual but can't even find a schematic of my 3 knob type control panel.
  10. I found this, it looks like its in front of the RHS wheel arch. You're right, that's the wrong manual. I reckon I've found it now though part # A082P6075F - Trianry Switch, section 18.03. There seems to be a typo, with it being labelled as part 35 rather than 37
  11. I found this, it looks like its in front of the RHS wheel arch.
  12. No I have not, I was thinking of testing that after the low pressure and WOT switches (as access is probably easier to those).
  13. Just spent a couple of hours troubleshooting the issue, documenting it here for future reference. Mains off: -ve has continuity to chassis Mains on, engine off: 0v between poles of compressor clutch plug Engine on, fan off: 0v between poles of compressor clutch plug Engine on, fan on AC off: 0v between poles of compressor clutch plug Engine on, fan on AC on: 0v between poles of compressor clutch plug, +ve has 0v to chassis This lead me to believe that the issue was in the (green and black) +ve wire running from the relay box to the compressor clutch. I've attached a diagram of what I assume the circuit to be laid out like. I then looked for 12V between terminal 87 and the -ve pole but found nothing I did however find continuity between 87 and the +ve pole I then bridged Terminals 30 and 87 and got 12V between the connector's poles Lastly I found continuity between 30 and 85, meaning that the -ve side of the relay trigger is fine I then connected the plug and bridged 30 and 87 and the compressor started right away I have already vacuumed the system, checked for leaks, and filled it with the correct amount of gas as per the manual (1.2 or 1.5kg, can't recall right now). This leads me to the WOT switch and High pressure switch (if present). Does anyone know where these are located?
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