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Jphoenix

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About Jphoenix

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  • Name
    Jim Phoenix
  • Car
    95 Esprit S4
  • Location
    South Puget Sound

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  1. Ah yes, and of course the last thing I did before pulling the engine is fill the fuel tanks. I’m sure fuel everywhere is my next clever move!
  2. 33 degrees just sounds better, I’m getting a thermometer that reads in C. Decided to split the gearbox off and lift it out first, that was easy. Now I can lean the engine back a bit and have just a tiny bit more rom up front to disconnect stuff. Cooling off tomorrow, back to normal so I can wallow in the puddles of fluid on the floor in comfort while I drop tools on my face. Boxes continue to arrive from the brown parcel trucks, wife is getting suspicious of my cost estimate - as always. But then I would not have power steering fluid puddles to wallow in.
  3. Finally getting around to replacing the clutch (before it starts slipping or wearing into the flywheel). It’s been four years since I did the cam belt, so I figured, while I’m in there. Got all the fidddly bits removed except for the AC compressor and Power steering hoses. I can get access to the ac compressor better after I raise the engine up a bit, but I cannot even see where the PS hoses attach to the pump, much less get a wrench on them. Any suggestions on where to access those fittings from? I can get to the coolant hoses in the front of the engine, been there last time I did the cam belt, but have not pulled the engine before, so this is taking some time while I figure things out. Got the roll pins out, wiring harness disconnected, etc. but the PS pump is challenging me . Exhaust manifold still installed, it looks like I can leave it on without any clearance problems?
  4. I have the Quicksilver, single outlet and I really like it. Really sounds good on the S4.
  5. But I will have a look at that website Jon, perhaps if done properly, re-dye would work, likely worth a try considering the cost of reupholster with original leather and the labor required to punch the original perforations and assemble and fit the hides required. Estimate is getting near USD 3000 just for the two seats.
  6. They are magnolia. The re-dye treatment has already been done by a PO but now it’s worn off and looks pretty bad. No rips or tears, just 22 years of wear showing.
  7. The seats in my 95 S4 are showing the typical wear and loss of dye, does anyone make replacement seat covers using the original, or very similar leather?
  8. Yeah. I had that drove me nuts, found the old surgical tubing cracked and failed right at the filler ports. Literally where they attach to the filler ports is where I had the problem under high power. Used to have a photo. But if you stick your head in and crane your neck around, you'll see it.
  9. The new three row core is thicker than the old two row core. This causes interference with the radiator housing vertical L angles- requiring some modification to refit the pack into the carrier.
  10. Got my newly recored radiator back today. Now it's a three row core with wider fin gaps to help the sand fall through and improved low flow dimpled core tubes. I should have taken a photo of the old core, it was about 50% plugged internally by calcium deposits, typical for a 22 year old radiator. Got a new oil cooler to replace the one I snapped the fitting on, $350 from JAE, new hoses, ready for reinstallation.
  11. I broke the connection on one of my setrab 315 L0 oil coolers, do the usual Lotus suppliers have these, like JAE? Any idea of cost? I see a used one on eBay in Portland for $124, so if a new one is less than $300, I prefer to go with new.
  12. You really need to drop you radiator and clean it. I dropped mine this morning and it is completey block with leaves, but mostly fine sand. I mean a lot of fine sand, it's unbelievable that it cooled at all. I only broke one of the oil cooler fittings, so quite pleased with myself! theres so much sand jammed in the fins that I'll take it to a radiator shop and have it recored. I'm sure it's never been down before. also plan to upgrade fans and change all hoses.
  13. The splitter on my S4 is cracked - again. Already repaired it once, but now I have it off again and planning to pull a mold off it and fabricate replacement splitters to keep in stock as I scrape it. I'll post later as I make progress on this plan. would be nice to have a very flexible plastic (rubber?) replacement, but it seems those get scraped and cracked as easily as a fiberglass or cf part. I've been molding a few cf parts lately for my race car have plenty lying about I can use, so I'll see how this goes.
  14. I think the blue belt just gives insurance in case you forget to change it again in five years. I've not heard of a blue belt ever failing, anyone know of a failure? i was one of the victims of a bad tensioner bearing, bought a new one from JAE three years ago when I did my belt, bearing lasted a month before it started making noise. JAE sent me a new one that actually had grease in it, Bennitt fine ever since. I'm pretty sure all the bad tensioner bearings are gone out of stock now. theres a thread here somewhere on the better cam sprockets, almost easier to replace the cam sprockets than changing the belt, but not much room for the sprocket puller, can be frustrating, but I found the difference in idle and off-idle response worth the effort.
  15. You'll need the upper coolant hose that must be removed to get the belt off. Can't remember if there's one or two, but I just did all the hoses since I had to drain down the coolant. Do you have green dot cam sprockets? I think the blue dots were a north american thing, so you probably have the good sprockets already. JAE blue cam belt?
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