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  1. Hi Graham, thanks for the advice, very happy to say that the panel is out! Now I’ve been able to access the rear of all of the switches and try to see if I’ve power to them. 1) No power to the light switch, so I’ve remade the connection at the positive post of the starter motor. This still didn’t help, so I found the loom connection in the drivers footwell and found that contacts there were corroded. Once these were cleaned up it was great to have power to the light switch. As I had all of the switches out I’ve given them a good clean up, with 1200 grit paper and degreased them. However this switch is behaving badly still, so will try and find another that will hopefully be in better shape. 2) I have power to the fan switch but sadly no life here. I’ve gone through and mapped how the switch worked and interestingly the wiring diagram for the 2.2 Eclat is different to how it is on the car. I know that I don’t have air con, and I can see these wires taped up on the loom. So I connected it up as the diagram, only to find a little smoke coming out of the grill. I guess the fan motors are seized? These can only come out with a dashboard removal? Good news is that headlamp motors, lights are all working. Now only the wipers, and indicators as well to get working!
  2. Ok so I've found this only happens when I, usually mistakenly, activate the headlamp flasher. When I use the main or dipped beam they raise and lower correctly. I think that indicates the motor and it's relays are ok. Is the headlamp flasher relay located in the driver's side pod as well? Or could it be the switch? Many TIA
  3. What I am hopeful of understanding in regard to the lamp motor operation, taking into account what is thought to be a correct diagram for S2 wiring, amounts to the following. There are 2 internal switches in each motor, one connecting to the Changeover relay via Blue/Green, the other to the Flash relay via Brown/Green and these switches make/break alternately via cams within the motor. When Headlamp switch provides power over Blue leads to the Changeover relay it operates to feed the motors through U/G through the made switches back to Headlamp Motor relays via Green. This operates the HM relays to connect motor feed ( Lilac to relay, from fuse block ) via R/G to motors through to earth. The operation of the Flash relay is similar though having feed power over L/U from the Headlamp switch only when that is "Off", so that activation from the Main Beam U/W engages the process with HM motor relays via the N/G. Please correct me if wrong in this. Cheers
  4. Individual motors may coast past their park point, due to slop in the armature, lack of weight in the pod, or iffy contacts in the internal switches, but if both are doing it, and it came on simultaneously, the plot thickens.,d.bGg motor headlamp switch&page=2&search_and_or=and&sortby=newest I'm not sure how a bad diode presents symptoms, but at a last resort they are cheap to swap if you have the motors apart for cleaning. TR7HeadlightMotorOperation.docx
  5. Not a massive amount of progress yesterday and today as it's too cold in my garage! I stripped both the seats yesterday and was pleasantly surprised to find that the seat foams are all good. That's a relief as the foams would be difficult to source... Then I had a look at the brake servo and master cylinder. They're both in a bad way but the master cylinder is the worst of the two. It's very rusty and seized solid... The servo is a little better... I had the master cylinder of my white car re-sleeved in stainless steel by and they did a great job so I think I'm going to send them the master cylinder and servo and let them see what they can do with it. That should chew through the best part of £450. I might rebuild the brakes myself or again send them those as well. A couple of missing bits turned up today, namely a pedal box and a windscreen wiper motor and mechanism... the pedal box is actually out of an S3 but it's only the accelerator arm where the cable attaches that's different. So I will need to fabricate a new arm at some point but that's a long way off being a priority! Then it was onto ignition locks/switches. this car came without a key and to get a key cut for it (without any numbers on the barrel) was going to be awkward. But I had the ignition lock from my white car which is a very early car and they had a different electrical switch which is long obsolete. So, after a bit of hunting I found it in the garage loft and low and behold it still had the original key in it and the mechanism works fine. So I drilled out the pin the holds the barrel in the lock and swapped it over. So now I have a working lock with a key and it didn't cost me anything - every little helps The early locks (the one on the right) have a different electrical switch... But never mind as I have robbed my old lock of its barrel and I now have a working later style lock that I can actually get a switch for from SJ Sportscars, so I'm very happy about that. Again, small victories... So my wanted list is growing ever shorter now and I've nearly found everything that's missing. There are only a few more items to find and I should be good to go. I just need to source... 1. The single headlamp lift motor mechanism (I've found the motor) 2. A single bonnet catch like this... I don't think it's worth trying to find an upright radiator that I can send to SJ to have rebuilt when I can just buy an alloy one and be done with it. Even if the alloy one is no better I'm assuming it won't be any worse. The spend so far is £16,813.00
  6. Hi again, This may see like a repetitive thread but I have finished sorting out the wiring loom/diagram for my S2 twin headlamp motors installed into my S1. I was searching for this information on the forum and www and could not find an exact thread (maybe I have missed it), nevertheless here is my own version of the conversion. I have set this up on a test bench and have it working perfectly. I am using the OEM S1 "lights" switch and similar C/O relays as used in the S2. The diagram attached is what I have come up with this week, from scratch. It works. The diagram only shows how to wire the motors to actuate correctly, however you will notice some additions like side lights and main beam output to the bulbs relays (another loom for another day!). This loom will require making up and putting in the car which is my next step, but the hard part is done. I really hope this can help others in a similar position. Any questions, I'll do my best to help. Hope the pictures are okay.
  7. I thought I'd have a look inside the headlamp motors to check the state of the torque pins etc. I'd rather replace them before they fail at an inconvenient moment. They were all ok, albeit very slightly out of round, which was strange seeing as the motors had clearly never been apart. So, two questions......... I've got a small machine shop with a lathe, can I make some new ones using some nylon stock? I haven't got any delrin. Question two, what limits the motor movement? Does the motor arm simply stall against the stops and wait for the timer to switch it off? I was expecting the motor to have inbuilt miro-switches to stop it at the end of travel etc. Cheers, Andy.
  8. Hi, Does anyone know if the heater motors have a relay and if so where Lotus wold have placed it? I don;t have much faith in the wring diagrams as the only wires colours and switch configuration which aligns to my car is for an air conditioned model rather than the non aircon model Bottom line is that one of my heater motors burned out after I'd replaced my clutch cable back in March , blowing the fuse , so I went through the painful process of replacing both motors with refurbished items. These work which work fine with direct current but not off the switch suggesting my old motor may have burned out a relay or a switch. Switch works fine so must be another component. Wiring diagram suggests a relay exists , but can only see indicator relay and hazard relay on the pedal box. Must be some others I can't see such as headlamp and heater rear window... Cheers Simon
  9. Lotus Esprit n/a 1988. All work done within the last 2800 miles. Full new lotus factory Eibach/Bilsten suspension , dampers, springs and factory Lotus polybushings throughout ( apart from the ARB which are rubber). Rebuilt rack, new uj, new wheel bearings etc. All new brake lines, braded hoses and rebuilt calipers. 5 new tyres (Bridgestones). Refurbished wheels. Lotusbits stage 1 engine with mapped ignition however retains new distributor so could be switched back to factory spec in 5 minutes. 200 bhp according to the dyno sheet which will come with the car. Rebuilt carbs, new silicone pipes. Modern fast starter motor, new flowlock valve, and rebuilt purge pump with timer relay. Allunox full stainless exhaust manifold and system to tail pipe. New clutch and reground flywheel. All new engine and box mounts. Aluminium tanks, new fuel pump. 3 core rad, 3 new fans and override switch. New oil cooler and hoses. All pipe clips stainless and all non-critical bolts and brackets stainless steel. Fitted with alcantara roof and rear panel. Seats recovered in black leather, new carpet set. Blaupunct ICE and speakers. New aerial plus isolator switch. New mirror / window switch. LED bulbs and relay fitted. New door / roof seals. New door window frames and seals, quarter lights resealed. Anti slosh device on fuel gauge, new horns. Immobilizer, mag tag so just turn key to start. Plus hundreds of little bits like bushings on headlamp lift motors, gear selector rebuilt both ends, elbows on heater vacuum system, stainless bumper bolts and brackets too many to list but have receipts for everything. Includes factory spare wheel with new tyre ( but not shown in pictures). Full factory build sheets and provenance certificate. I bought it in 2010 with 85k miles but due to rebuilt speedo (set to 0000) it now shows 2800 miles since rebuild , I have got the old mots showing mileages and changes of reg no . Could use as is or my next job was to get it repainted. I have not used as I thought I would it due to other commitments. Just added up the receipts and for parts alone they come to over £17k. Any inspection welcome. The post Lotus Esprit N/A 1988 appeared first on Click to view item
  10. That fuse list looks like from a Federal car. The UK cars had fuses as an afterthought, as in all prior Lotuses. Or possibly because they add weight At least they doubled the number from the Elan which had 4 to 8 on the Esprit! There are lots of other inline fuses hidden away under the dash where they cant be accessed without risk of bodily injury. I think the 8 are supposed to be 35 amp. But my heater blower fuse kept blowing so I replaced it with a 20A slow blow and that doesnt blow. Some of the circuits they forgot to fuse at all such as the headlamp motor control circuit so if the wires chafe through on the motor the wiring harness acts as the fuse and smoke comes out, as I have discovered in the past. The early Turbos left the S2 fused fan relay in place but the extra load of the 3 fans causes the fuseholder to melt. Strangely the fuseholder seems to be weaker than the fuse! I have modified mine extensively in that area, one big relay for one fan and another big relay for the other two which come on when the A/C is on or the temp switch closes.
  11. I think they are under the bonnet near the passenger side headlamp motor. There are 3 x black 40 Amp changeover relays. One for the headlamp control and 2 for the headlamp motors. Its unlikely to be the relays. The headlamp control relay activates when the lights are switched on and provides a voltage to one side of the headlamp motors internal switch. This in turn energises the headlamp motor relay which turns the headlamp motor (pods up). When the internal switch in the motor switches, it kills the voltage to the headlamp motor relay which switches off the motor. When the lights are turned off, the headlamp control relay de-activates putting a voltage out to the 'other side' of the headlamp motors internal switch, this in turn energises the headlamp motor relay and the motor turns. Once the internal switch activates again, the motor stops (pods down).
  12. Found a nice list of cross references on the US Lotus Talk forum, will break it down when I have a minute, but for now in it's entirety as a ref. Fuel injectors The Rochester fuel injectors for the V8 Esprit are from an Oldsmobile Aurora Five o motorsports Bosch 24 lb Fuel Injector - Blue Top (Bosch # 0-280-150-947) Secondary fuel injector Secondary injectors are from a mid-1990's Chevy S10 pick up with the 4-cylinder engine Napa 7 07390 61937 8 Also, there is a number in the box 3-18641 The fuel pressure regulator 1992-1996 Corvette with the LT-1 LT-4 engine Fuel filter (WIX 3481) Napa Gold filter 7 65809 15325 7 There is also a # in the box 3481 You need to replace the o'rings Napa 730-4912 Air filter K&N Part number is 33-2547 Oil Filter Fram PH 3614 or HP10 K&N HP2004 Mobil 1 M1-204 Cam belts Gates C918E0298F Serpentine belt Goodyear Gatorback. # 4060817 or 6PK2057 Aux belt Goodyear B918E0069F 6PK2072 Rear Brake Pads EBC Green Stuff DP 2885 Renault Laguna (JPSR082B) Front Brake pads EBC, Part No. GD1130 Ignition coil Bosch Ignition Coil 0221503001 Aftermarket 173 03E 00179 Wheel bearing QH QWB467 Alternator 2001 Cadillac Catera, specify the 120 amp Bosch unit Bosch for Opel Omega, 14V, part #0986039 250-093 Bosch unit. Part # 0 123 510 064 Header Tank 205 GTI Peugeot 205 Wiper blade assembly Renault Twingo 3/93 Part 77 11 171 717 Headlamp motor Corvette C4 Power steering pump ZF Number 7691 955 1?2 Ford Number 95GB-3A674-AC Gas cap ACDELCO GT172 Power mirror switch Vauxhall part - early 90's Cavalier Air bag 90-92 Pontiac Trans Am Coil Vauxhall/Opel Calibera 2.0 ect 94-99 BOSCH 0221503001 (ORIGINAL PART FITTED BY LOTUS) Power Window switches Vauxhall Calibra Turbo Front Fog lights Saab 9000 CS/CSE/CD manufacturer Valeo Driv side Part no: 4014320 Pass. side Part no: 4014312 Fuel pump Walbro part number is GSS340 Others: Autozone Part # 3270 80-90 psi 50-60gph Part # 3271 90-100 psi 55 gph Part # 3367 100-110 psi 55-65gph Sparkplug V8: NGK BKR6EKC Denso iridium IK20#4 5304#4 0 42511 53044 7 Idle Control Valve AC377 Idle Air Control Valve ALFA ROMEO 164 (93-91) ALFA ROMEO SPIDER (92-90) PEUGEOT 405 (91-89) SAAB 900 (97-88) SAAB 9000 (97-90) VOLVO 240 (93-90) VOLVO 244 (89-88) VOLVO 245 (89-88) VOLVO 740 (92-88) VOLVO 940 (95-91) Four prong Bosch like relay Napa Echlin AR393 also there is # V09267 6 99029 14249 7 Five prong Bosch like relay Advance auto/Autozone BWD R3177 also there is a # V10048 0 33086 83077 3 Coolant temperature sensor Advance auto/autozone WT3000Z also there is # M11206 7 45321 72743 3 Twinturbo Garrett Garrett pn# 452218-0001 Cartridge only 443854-0146 Rebuild kit 709143-0001 Turbine A/R .49 Compressor A/R .48 Also, you can use Garrett Turbo T25 TB2531 (saab) Clutch pressure plate + release bearing B082Q0718F Hatch lift Strongarm PN# 4530 also 4408 O2 sensor Bosch 13030 (exact plug and connection 4 wires) The A/C Compressor is from GM's 3.1L V6's. 1998 Buick Skylark V6 1998Pontiac Grand Am V6 It is a Delphi 1135153. The receiver/dryer is a Parker-Hannifan unit. It can be obtained from Auto Parts, Car Parts and Auto Accessories at Discount Prices | (no affiliation) According to it is from a 1975-1984 Volvo 240/260. ACDelco: 15-20335, 15-21209 CarQuest / NAPA: 251213, 274064 Delphi: CS0052 Denso: 471-9135 Four Seasons: 57980, 58980 General Motors: 1135089, 1135153, 1135208, 1135270, 1135418 Omega: 20-11091-R Proliance: 2491, 2491N Visteon: 000345, 010360, 11980, 16980 Crank sensor Napa ECHLIN 7 07390 42451 Aso there is # CSS130 in the box. The sensor is not exact but it does work and will bolt. The wire plug is exact (two wires)
  13. I have spent a few hours playing with the headlamp motors on an Elite S2.2, getting them running and setting the height. I have an issue with one motor which wants to keep turning so the headlamp pops up and down continuously when the lights are switched off. When you switch the lights on, they both pop up and stay up. If you apply some pressure to the rotating pod, it will stop in the closed position so I was wondering if adjustment of the rod or spring is required to apply some resistance? I have tried lengthening and shortening the rod and tried adjusting the nut on top of the spring, all with no change except the settled height of the pod. I have had the motor apart and checked that the cam operates the pins correctly to switch power between the wires. I have also tensioned and cleaned the copper contacts. Anyone have any advice? Maybe it needs a new motor?
  14. 1983 Lotus Eclat/Excel, 2.2 Manual I am regretfully selling this car due to space, we purchased this car on a whim last summer after it had been off road in a garage since 1992 (tax disk still in window). The car was completely original but required some recommissioning after sitting for so long, so we have done the following: Electronic ignition (accuspark system) New clutch (sports clutch from sjs) New clutch slave cylinder New electronic fuel pump New ignition leads New Spark Plugs Replaced all Belts Rebuild water pump New steering rack gaiters New interior carpets New battery New alternator Reconditioned starter motor New tyres all round The car has a years MOT and is incredibly fun and exciting to drive. Paint is original and has a few age related marks but polishes and waxes up well, easily good enough to drive and enjoy. Underneath the car is immaculate where it has clearly been garaged for so long. Wheels are original speedlines and have not been reconditioned as they still look very tidy. The are now shod in new rubber, with slightly skinnier tyre on the front, fatter on rear. Does come with original manuals and booklets, however these are heavily deteriorated where they got damp over the years. Boot has original spare, and original toolkit, which i am very sure i was the first one to touch since it left the factory. Interior is original with black leather and velour door cards and seats. Radio is an original lotus unit and works excellently. All electronics work, windows, electric mirrors, radio, headlamps, sidelights, interior lights, green dash lights, heater fan, fog lamps etc. This is a great honest original car and ready to drive right away, i wouldn’t hesitate to take it on a long drive as everything important has been done, and the car starts no problem on the button, first time, every time. Airbox was removed for photos but is present and can be fitted at buyers request along with cold air hose and breathers Areas that still require some tlc are listed below: Paint has odd small white dots on two small areas (i can supply more detailed photos on request) Drivers seat has a small rip along the stripes Headlamp switch looks a bit tatty (does work though) passenger side dash pod in the middle has screw holes on the side from a phone mount (an 80s phone mount) passenger side door handle has been badly repaied in the past and could do with replacing. Does work but only locks from inside. View the full article
  15. Today , I tackled an annoying defect on the right pod light. Whenever I was driving on a bad road the Pod started winking (when the lights are on). Recently it got worse and it was winking, the moment I started to drive. After some minutes, it stopped, but not always. So time for a repair. First I want to mention a very good stripdown and maintenance guide for the lucas headlamp pod motors, that can be downloaded here :,d.bGg Clear foto's and all there is to know to repair this thing. I got the pod motor out , which is easy enough. Disconnect the connectors and loosen 3 small bolts and the lever to the pod and it is out. Now is the time to clean the copper on the connectors to have good contacts. I opened up the switch box cover ( 5 bolts) and also removed the last 6th bolt to remove the complete switch box. I cleaned the two contacts thoroughly and I also cut the motor terminals ( spades) out and soldered the two wires. One less bad contact in the future. I took out the nylon gear and cleaned it and regreased everything, before reinstallation. I cut out a new rubber seal out of some neoprene I had lying around and closed everything. After mounting things in the car again , I did a test drive and the winking is history. Me Happy Geert
  16. Some of the fuse listings in the manuals are misleading because only the controlling circuit is fused not the actual item. Specifically the fans, the actual fans are not fed from any fuse in the fuse box but the controlling circuit with the Otter switch is. Also headlamps, there is no fuse for the lamps themselves but the relays for the lamps are fused. There are some dodgy areas in the wiring on these cars, for example the unfused headlamp current is also used for controlling the motors so it passes through each motor, via its internal switches. Its a burned wiring harness waiting to happen.
  17. Have almost finished entire loom. Used thin wall wire for additional circuits. How do you determine what the current carrying capacity is of a wire? Easy, count the strands. This thin wall wire is incredible, it can carry up to 16.5 amps and has 32 strands of thin copper. It's much thinner than the original 8.75amp wire used in the old loom. Easy to add circuits to loom without it becoming too bulky and you can buy the wire colour coded. Have up graded fan circuits with a relay and additional overide switch. Have also upgraded the headlamp motor wires. Easy to rebind the loom in black pvc loom tape. The whole job much easier and quicker than I first thought. Just need to add a fasten belts wire and choke switch wiring. The fans are also finished and tested. They are in blower config, are 7 inch and are placed in front on the rad. have used waterproof plugs. the fans are bespoke and come from Kenlowe.
  18. So my philosophy was this : anything that was powered directly from the column or interior switches should have a relay on it unless it's current draw was low - like the washer motor. The Lucas switches (and I may add the old moulded connectors) are not fit for very high current applications and some parts are pretty expensive if they burn up. In my car I chose to fit additional relays for : The headlamp dipped and main beams (evidenced by brown burn marks on the column connector) Horns (I also fitted a new set of Snail type - in my opinion 10A is way too much for the column switch) Both electric window motors (at one time those S1 window switches were £40 each!) Cooling fans (I want to preserve my Otter switch!) plus ensure full voltage at the fans. I forgot about the wiper motor and heater though. My car didn't have choke, seatbelt or handbrake switches and I didn't bother adding them.
  19. While Paul has you uprating the wiring to the headlamp motors, my tip of the day is to install relays inside the door shells (one for up and one for down), a really good new ground and a new +ve fused feed to each of the window motors. Makes an astonishing difference to the motor speed and prevents window switch burnout.
  20. Today is the first day of connecting a my Elite project car. (This is the one that has stood outdoors for seven years and had a very damp interior) When I switched on the ignition very little seems to work. I was expecting this but maybe not as bad. Before investigating further I would like to ask a few questions. Going from the basics could someone, or ones, please advise on the following and what route of investigation I should take: Is the ignition warning lamp the only one that illuminates on the dash when the ignition is on? On the column stalk I have the headlamp flasher working but no indicators, horn or hazards. On the wiper side the blade moved about 10mm and stopped, the ignition warning lamp dimmed, linkage or motor? washers are working. N/S window winder works fine up and down, O/S only goes down, Switch or motor fault? Tomorrow I intend to change over the switches to eliminate them. Heater blower is not working, not a peep, where do I start? The lights pull switch is seized presently soaking overnight with WD40. Looking for input guys. Regards Adrian
  21. mdw

    Got one!

    Try silicone spray on the window channels. If not that then the motor is also used on a number of xj jags ( I think from memory) I bought a set of 4 a few years ago off ebay. If you need new window channels Woolies trim do them in 2 different sizes. The larger is a tighter grip but less wind noise. The air horns are under the l/h headlamp and the compressor to the rear of the screen washer bottle. You might be able to resurrect it but its not a fortune to replace with new air horns or electrics from a breakers. Be careful if you need to remove the mirror switch as its made of chocolate and will explode as you disconnect it losing lots of little bits. Sjs do them but better not to need it. Also nail the mat to the floor as you don't want it trapping the throttle pedal (Woolies do the mat clips). Check in electrics box on the boot to see if your rev limiter is connected or not. They do play up and cause engine running problems but disconnecting them takes them out of the loop which some owners do. However they obviously then don't work!!!! Read up on as the SE excels use our engine and there were a lot more SE excels made (2kish) than n/a esprits (260ish). Search here and re the AB ignition amp module and dissy wire breaking as these are also problem areas.
  22. The fan fail relay was never going to do anything to help. Voltage measurements are all very well, too, but don't take any regard of current limiting resistance. Have you checked the power feed to the relay from the starter motor? From the wiring diagram it should be a black wire coming from the main battery feed to the starter terminal... WIth the Lotus, if you have a poor earth or a broken wire, you often find strange things happen and power feeds through other paths ...this can give a voltage reading where there is no true connection. I've had power feeding through headlights or indicators, which confused the issue. On one occasion I fitted a new windscreen washer pump, as it didn't work and I could hear a relay ticking when I operated the washers. This didn't work....and it turned out that the earth to the washers didn't come from the relay block by the headlamp, but form the main loom...and the connection to the relay block was takng the earth FROM the washer TO the relays!! In fact, it might be worth checking that you have two wires on one of the pump terminals....otherwise the relay block won't have a proper earth. I've been having another look at the diagram...the wire from terminal 30 of the relay is BROWN, not black...I was in Italian mode, and assumed N was Negro, hence black, done too much electrics on Alfas! We're getting to the old Sherlock Holmes thing here - whatever remains has to be the truth..... Can you confirm that the fan relay operates if you connect one side of the otter switch to the other....a prod with a suitable length of wire would do....and check that it IS the fan relay which is operating, an acolyte with a finger on the correct relay will feel it work, or you could unplug it and confirm that there is no clicking sound in that case. Do the same check with your manual override. If the relay operates and the fans don't...then the fault HAS to be either the power supply to the relay contacts (the brown wire to the starter terminal) or the wiring to the fans themselves....or the earth connection to the fans. If you can unplug the fans and check for +12 volts going to them when the relay operates, that could give you a clue, too. Your wiring checks so far show that you know enough to solve has to be something persistent; eliminate things as you go....
  23. On the Excel toyota motors, it is quite simple, but you need a few relays. the "up" 12v supply from a relay triggered off the light switch goes through a relay with the wiper connected to a microswitch so when the motor reaches the top the 12v is cut and the motor stops with the headlamp up. The same for down in reverse with separate relays. I've not installed the wiring for mine yet but have tested in on the car and it all works quite straightforwardly. I'm using a different light switch (from a VW polo) because I wanted a rotary switch on the lower right of the steering wheel because I don't like the eclat switch and I'm changing the binnacle part of the dashboard for an excel SE one, this switch has multiple contacts, so creating the 12v feed for the "down" was easy to do. Otherwise an a/b (five connector) relay will do it. The complicated bit for me was the mechanicals in that the eclat/elite has a metal bar across the base of the headlamp pod, and the vacuum pod mechanism is attached in the middle of this bar. On the excel the motor has a link rod at the side, so I had to make a nylon bush to adapt the link rod to work in the middle of the eclat pod.
  24. Starting issues as per below : Just passed MOT test although needed jump start from slave battery to get started (hot) and this was a struggle. Used a diesel van with engine running to get fired up and this was only just possible. Drove back home from MOT test being careful not to stall and engien runs fine, lights all good etc etc Charged spare battery overnight, installed, starts reasonably okay but starter motor is slow. Usual 3-4 seconds cranking before firing up 15 mile run, (daytime) @ 70 ish MPH, return back to base, switch off and leave for about 5 mins. Starter slow (like discharged battery) and fails to fire. Leave to cool for 12 hours, engine starts and then after short run, as per above........ back to base and switch off. No hot start. Battery showing 12.6v and alternator output 14.6v with engine running, lights on, blower motor on, interior lights on etc etc. Above tests insicate battery good, alternator good so it looks like a starter motor issue ......perhaps ? Need to check fuel pressure and the usual pull a plug and see if there are sparks etc but gut feeling is that this issue is somethig else Just another note - on reconnecting battery earth, headlamp pods lift and close which could be bad earth perhaps is is this normal ? Read somewhere about a additional battery earth mod ?? and possibly injectors ? No doubt someone has had a similar problem before so if you have, would be gratful as I dont want to pull the manifold again if I can help it Any info would be good Thanks in advance
  25. Hi All Seem to have a niggling fault with one of my headlamp pods. Described like this: Press light switch or flash light stalk and left light pods rises and falls when switched off. Right pad remains down but lights come on and go off as they should. Open bonnet and remove washer bottle. Manualy adjust pod so that its just proud of the bonnet line. Switch on lights or flash and both pods go up and down as they should... so problem fixed. Drive car and flash lights/turn on lights and all is fine. Leave car for a day or two or when I get the chance to drive and check lights are working and back to square one. One headlamp pod stays down. Go through the same procedure again ie adjusting the pod height with the black motor knob and lights are okay whilst the car is being used. I have checked the relays and fuses and all appears okay. Anyone have similar problems ? Cheers in advance Paul
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