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engine removal power steering/gearbox - Engine & Ancilliaries/Gearbox - The Lotus Forums Jump to content
tom kilner

engine removal power steering/gearbox

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Firstly: i thought I would leave the gearbox in the chassis to remove the engine as it might reduce the headroom needed for the lift - I've got a low roof. (I could refit together if that's easier but I'll have a better idea of what I'm doing at that point)

Secondly I'd like to remove the power steering pump before lifting the lump. Hopefully it's really easy...

Advice and suggestions welcome.

 

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I'm pretty sure (although would love to be wrong) that the engine and gearbox have to be removed as one.

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The ‘m50’ film on YouTube seems to show the factory assembling the cars with the engine and box in the chassis.... there does seem to be a bit of persuasion being used though.....

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I had to remove my power steering pump to clear the front of the body which I discovered mid lift. I took the gerabox out with the engine and put it back in with the engine. Get more height by choosing a stone day and getting the car outside.

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I separated the engine and gearbox before lifting mine out but mine doesn't have PAS so don't know if that makes a difference. 

I mated the gearbox when I put it all back together. 

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Thanks folks - I can't really get the car outside because the weight of the chassis is resting on the rear drum. I could pull it out with the tractor though.

Also as I am missing at least two of the bolts holding the engine to the bellhousing I'm not sure I want a hundred kilo cantilever on that point. It's too easy to assume that the other bolts are actually in there holding it together.

I can't lift the body off the chassis with engine still fitted as it's reputed to be like getting a sofa up a spiral staircase.

I'm imagining the gearbox could be loosened and then the engine drawn forward,  propshaft disconnected,  gearbox unbolted and slid back out of the clutch,  then engine raised. I can't see how the power steering will make a difference once the pump is out - the racks don't look very different in size.

 

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Hi Tom,

I have removed the engine without the gearbox on my S2.2.

Its tight and you have to pad the bodywork but not impossible.

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When I took my Eclat engine out, I asked Mike Taylor the best way and he said that Lotusbits always take the engine and box out together. I did this without too much trouble, he allows 3 hours but has the experience and kit to do it

There are more than one type of PS pumps and mounting brackets.  I took my pump off when I took the lump,out but put it back with the pump fitted. The best lift point is with a sling round the inlet manifold, I managed on my own with limited headroom by a combination of a chain hoist and trolley jack underneath and rolling the car back and forward.

why not replace the missing bellhousing bolts first?

peter

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The bellhousing bolts don't align with the holes - see my earlier "mystery and disappointment " post -so I might be opening a new can of worms to try to sort that out lying on my back in a pool of steering fluid (I couldn't quite see the easiest/cleanest way to drain the p.s fluid although i caught 90%of it).

I can't really roll the car as the rear wheels are almost locked by the failed chassis.

Once the ps pump is off I should be able to start looking at pulling the powertrain apart. I can see that e+g connected is a more straightforward removal, although once I've got it disconnected I might then try to detach the gearbox under the car to save having to pull it out of the engine bay.

Thanks for the advice so far guys.

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On 12/19/2018 at 21:49, esprit s2 said:

I separated the engine and gearbox before lifting mine out but mine doesn't have PAS so don't know if that makes a difference. 

I mated the gearbox when I put it all back together. 

What needed to be removed extra to pull the engine off the gearbox?  I imagine you'd separate the two at the bellhousing,  and need two or three inches slide to get the shaft out of the clutch assembly. I might need to start raising engine/gearbox assembly to allow separation.1208550664_2019-01-2419_11_02.thumb.jpg.a04b56f95ec2957467364f8a5ec19861.jpg

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The PAS really has no relevance as to whether the gearbox is attached to the engine or not during engine removal.  If you are to do it separated then, make sure that the oil cooler and its supply pipes are off the engine and out of the car (it gives more space for movement away from the gearbox). Also be prepared for a little bit of frustration when attempting to reattach the clutch to the gearbox shaft, it may go together fine, but it may just be awkward. As Tom indicates, the ability to raise the gearbox and engine is going to be crucial, as you need to get past the PAS rack and pipes,so a couple of jacks under them is good, or ideally a little motorcycle lifting platform (like a scissor jack with a bed the size of A4 paper) as things then don't roll about as much.

 

So you want to remove the PAS pump before lifting the engine. For what reason? What I mean by that question is: What's the goal, such as you are trying to keep the pipes attached to the pump....

The PAS can be a PITA, because you need to remove a bracket which affixes using a sump bolts and bolts accessible from the wheel arch (but made awkward by the pump itself). It can be easier just undoing the pipes to the pump, then removing the pump once you have better access.

 

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I've got the pump off already - it was awkward but better than dealing with hmrc which was the day's alternative. just looks like there's more space for access and manoeuvring.

I can see the engine needs to rise a little at the front to get over the steerng rack before it can be pulled forward.

Once I have got the stuff out,  I can probably see whether I can get it all back in in one piece on reassembly given the ceiling height.  what I don't want is to get stuck with the engine/box suspended half way out the bay!

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1847212401_2019-02-0721_02_54.jpg.6c4a094da457c3a852486ea927018712.jpg

In the end I took engine and gearbox out together - it took 6'4 headroom including a load leveller, and very tightly attached - you can see the leveller is up at the end of the (ecyended) boom,  but I wouldn't want to try without one. Looking at how tight the front of the engine is to the top of the hoist,  it seems unlikely that you'd save any height without one.

 

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