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S4s rolling restoration project


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  • Gold FFM

@Gibbie while the car is still on stands and not driveable I have just been out and plugged in Espritmon and spun the wheel and the new sensor is reading a valid speed and no ABS warning light has come back on so the signs look promising for the replacement part.

Based on the parts list the car has three different sensors:

  • Front Left = C082M6485F (The part I removed was an Intellek 10456153)
  • Front Right = C082M6484F
  • Rear (both sides) = C082M6483F

From what I can see cross referencing the various parts the sensors are all identical in terms of how the magnetic pick-up is aligned relative to the connector socket, the only difference on the three sensors appears to be how the mounting bolt position is aligned relative to the plug. That being the case the Daewoo derived sensor I've used can be used to replace any of the above sensors subject to the metal mount bracket being orientated correctly.

The link below is the specific part I bought and used on mine; a Daewoo 10456154, which is the same sensor but the bolt hole is clocked incorrectly for any of the existing sensors on the Esprit. However, because the clamp is a separate metal part to the sensor - unlike the fully moulded OE part - with a bit of care you can remove the metal clamping bracket, open the jaws ever so slightly and then re-clock it to mount it in the Esprit.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/222742396165?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

Disclaimer: While I've tested this on Espritmon I've not yet driven the car with the new sensor to be 100% sure its correct, but signs do look promising.

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Norfolk Mustard S4s #1 :)

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  • Gold FFM

Well that's annoying. Postie delivered the power steering fluid first thing this morning so at lunchtime I excitedly went out and filled the system back up, cranked it over with the fuel pump disabled as per the instructions to "bleed" the system. Then I came to start the car and... it won't :(

I can hear the new fuel pump priming, battery is healthy and it turns over fine but it just won't start - doesn't even sound like its trying to. I've checked the the inertia switch (not falling for that one twice!) and all the obvious connections but still nothing. I've obviously unplugged or disturbed something while replacing the tanks, just need to work out what now 🙄

Norfolk Mustard S4s #1 :)

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  • Gold FFM
15 hours ago, Barrykearley said:

You have got the crank sensor plugged in

Don't know. I certainly didn't intentionally unplug it while doing any of this work, but given the nature of the symptoms it has all the hallmarks of an electronics issue. I'll certainly be checking that to make sure it's not been disconnected or damaged.

Norfolk Mustard S4s #1 :)

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  • Gold FFM

Also check the earth for the ECU, it's on one of the bellhousing bolts. I forgot to reconnect it when I did the clutch, took some searching!

  • Like 1

I have made many mistakes in my life. Buying a multiple Lotus is not one of them.

 

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  • Gold FFM

Okay, so its not an electrical fault actually. Sensors all seem to check out and no fault codes reporting from any sensors. Given the only thing I've really touched is the fuelling system I turned my attention there and decided to crack off one of the fuel filter unions and not a drop came out. Evidently the 2 second prime of the pump that the ECU does when you turn the ignition on is not enough to get the motion potion up to the fuel rail for a completely dry system.

Plan now is to consult the electrical diagrams and work out what relay(s) I need to "jump" temporarily to run the pump for longer then two seconds to see if that will get the fuel pumped up to where it needs to be for it to start 🤞

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Norfolk Mustard S4s #1 :)

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  • Gold FFM

Beat me to it @sailorbob. Shorted those two pins with a little jumper wire and the fuel pump whirrs merrily away in the tank but still no signs of fuel getting up to the filter 😕

Just to check I haven't completely lost my marbles I chucked the bore scope down into the RH tank and there is definitely fuel in there.

Norfolk Mustard S4s #1 :)

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  • Gold FFM

So I've now gone back as far as disconnecting the fuel line where it exits the plate on top of the pump in the tank and with the pump whirring away, still no fuel emerges. I've even got desperate enough to temporarily cutoff the LH tank, remove the fuel from it and chuck it all in the RH tank in case what little fuel I had in the tank wasn't enough for the pump, but still no change in symptom. I've also checked back at my photos and checked the polarity of the wiring from when I assembled it all and measured the polarity on the connector on the loom that powers the pump and that all seems to be correct too.

Looks like I'll be taking the pump out at the weekend to inspect further. Really not sure what else can be at fault now other that the new pump itself being DOA.

Norfolk Mustard S4s #1 :)

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  • Gold FFM

No, its a Sytec pump, which appears to have been used by others on here before. Intention was to replace the ~25 year old original pump with something new as a preventative measure while the tanks were out of the car. Looks like that has backfired :cry:

Norfolk Mustard S4s #1 :)

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  • Gold FFM

If you take the pump out, check the connection to the fuel line. A couple of years ago I couldn't get flow from a newly bought pump (not in a Lotus, in a Jeep). Took it out again and disassembled and found a transparent cover still plugging the output with the fuel line pushed over it...

I have made many mistakes in my life. Buying a multiple Lotus is not one of them.

 

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  • Gold FFM

I guess it's a possibility, but a pretty slim one I would have thought. There were bright red bungs on each end of the pump which were both definitely removed because I have them in the box here.

Either way the next step is to take the pump out again and if necessary it's going to be replaced by the manufacturer. Sadly didn't have any time to work on the car this weekend, beyond draining the tanks in readiness to remove the pump.

Norfolk Mustard S4s #1 :)

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  • Gold FFM

I got mine from SWLC (A082N4041F) @fjmuurling, but I believe SJ have the same part in stock too looking at the photos on their site.

Looking at the part number stamped on the sender SWLC supplied (TB9022-000) it appears to be a Smiths part.

https://www.smiths-instruments.co.uk/tank-senders

Norfolk Mustard S4s #1 :)

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