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S4s rolling restoration project


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  • Gold FFM

I did consider that, but the VDO oil temperature gauge is a subtlely different design from the rest of the CAI gauges and the OCD in me wouldn't like seeing two different style gauges that close together if I'd put it where the boost gauge is. By doing a straight swap with the clock it's less obvious on first glance that the temperature gauge differs from the rest.

To be honest, I have fitted boost gauges in some of my other cars and having used it to check it was boosting correctly I found myself seldom looking at it after that. My personal preference is to be able to see the engine oil temperature more clearly.

When I looked at it I wasn't sure the wiring would reach to be able to swap those gauages over on mine without extending it, so it's interesting to know that it can/has been done 👍

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Norfolk Mustard S4s #1 :)

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2 hours ago, tomcattom said:

When I looked at it I wasn't sure the wiring would reach to be able to swap those gauages over on mine without extending it, so it's interesting to know that it can/has been done 👍

No they're not, I had to extend the wires to enable me to move them. :thumbup:

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Cheers,

John W

http://jonwatkins.co.uk

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  • 1 month later...
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Have you already bought the LED’s? I think I have a set of original back plates and headlamps in the garage, condition unknown, though.

Good work on the GRP, looks nice.

Margate Exotics.

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Its an interesting thought @jonwat. I only really need the washer to stay centred on its current poisition to prevent it from allowing the 6mm hole in the outboard side of the pod opening up again so if it does end up rotating that shouldn't be an issue I wouldn't have thought, its lateral movement I'm trying to prevent by doing this.

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Norfolk Mustard S4s #1 :)

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12 hours ago, tomcattom said:

Interestingly the manual shows washers fitted either side of each ball joint. There was enough room for this on the nearside pod, but the offside pod was so tight there is no hope of me getting the prescribed washers in there so I think it will have to go without. My only worry is on the outboard side it will mean the balljoint is directly in contact with the pod which I don't like, but I have no room to do anything about it,

Could you shim the ball joint so it sits away from its usual mounting face to allow enough room to fit the washer? e.g. move the pod ball joints towards to outside of the car.

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I might be able to do that @sailorbob . I can't easily adjust the ball joints I've already installed in the pod recesses because that would require me rebating it into the shell to widen the gap between them and that sounds like a tin of worms I don't want to get into now. The sole ball joint in the pod is fitted on the inside so I could pack it out with a washer there, but I'll have to be mindful of that causing the inboard side to foul against its mating ball joint fixing plate. It's certain something I can try on that pod when I reassemble it again after painting 👍

Norfolk Mustard S4s #1 :)

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In between preparing the pods for painting I've completed a couple of other tasks on the car in the past few days.

First up, the bonnet hinge bar was showing signs of surface corrosion and paint was flaking off quite badly in various places, so while it's off the car because the headlamp pods are out I decided to spruce it up.

I ground all the old paint and corrosion off

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Then while applying the primer I noticed that one of the arms that the bonnet bolts to didn't looks straight, a quick check with a square confirmed my suspicions. Probably more evidence of former crash damage 🙄

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After measuring the hole centres on the bonnet to confirm they are meant to be parallel I chucked it in the vice and tweaked it back into shape.

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Finally three liberal coats of satin black paint were applied and its come up a treat. Its one of my better rattle can jobs too :) Shame no one will ever see it once it's back on the car!

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Next task was to deal with the butchered front loom in the pod wells. I had planned to removed the exposed crimped on spade connector and resolder the loom. But upon inspection the copper was in a poor state due to exposure from the way its been repaired previously. To do the repair properly I was going to need to remove more of the loom from the car to gain better access to cut back to good copper that I could solder onto reliably. After a quick search on ebay I lucked in a found a whole good front end loom for not very much and decided that was the easier/more reliable option, so today I battled the car and replaced it.

Removing it from the frunk area was the easy bit.

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The loom then disappears up over the front nearside wheel arch and into the cabin through here:

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After some probing with my borescope I eventually found its entry point into the cabin tucked away at the base of the A-pillar just in front of the door. To gain access I had to remove the front left speaker and interior A-pillar trim. You can see here where it disappear off down into the wheel arch area alongside the washer tube and one of the A/C hoses.

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Having disconnected the earth and multi-way loom connectors at the base of the A-pillar I then tied the loose end of a ratchet strap to the loom and pulled it all through into the frunk. I then liberally taped the new loom up to the loose end of the strap and after a bit of heaving and swearing I managed to pull the new loom back through into the cabin again and reconnect the two plugs and bolt down the earth.

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Then it was just a straightforward task of routing the loom back round the frunk and plugging it into the right places.

One replacement undamaged loom reinstated in the pod well and I've cleaned up the pod wells as best as I can. Its not really worth the effort of trying to get it any better because the car is about fifty shades of yellow 🤣

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Norfolk Mustard S4s #1 :)

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If that's taken maybe "Fifty sheds of yellow" is more appropriate given that state my car was/is in 🤣

Norfolk Mustard S4s #1 :)

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The most potent solvent I've used is a mix of 70% naptha, 20-25 xylene and methyl alcohol for the remainder. Nasty fumes but highly effective for cleaning.

Cheers 

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I knew there was something I’d forgotten to say.....

When you have the pods out, give the drain holes some serious enlarging. They can very easily block up with leaves and other shite, then what happens is the next time you drive the car, after having washed it, you notice water spraying out of the front corner of the car when you negotiate a bend. Naturally, the headlamp units will also be full of water, and cock everything up nicely.

Don’t ask me how I know. 🙄

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Margate Exotics.

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Guess that will have to wait until they're next out to do that then. The pod holes are at least confirmed clear while the pods were out.

Norfolk Mustard S4s #1 :)

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24 minutes ago, tomcattom said:

Guess that will have to wait until they're next out to do that then. The pod holes are at least confirmed clear while the pods were out.


Yeah, sorry Tom, I wished I’d said something earlier. The alarm bell was ringing, but it never registered. I’d strongly advise having a look in the wells every time you wash it, or if it’s been out in the rain. 

Margate Exotics.

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On 25/04/2021 at 06:41, Chillidoggy said:

Have you already bought the LED’s? I think I have a set of original back plates and headlamps in the garage, condition unknown, though.

Good work on the GRP, looks nice.

I can’t seem to email you-but I’m looking for a set of headlamps for my V8. Could you please let me Know the condition and price? Photos would be ideal. 

Thanks!

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8 hours ago, LotuStuart said:

I can’t seem to email you-but I’m looking for a set of headlamps for my V8. Could you please let me Know the condition and price? Photos would be ideal. 

Thanks!

Your messaging is blocked for some reason.

Margate Exotics.

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