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S4s rolling restoration project


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  • Gold FFM

Not touched any of the suspension yet. Hoping I can work out what I have for front castor and rear toe by inspection 🤞. Front camber is going to require some disassembly to work out what is currently in there from what I understand from reading the workshop manual. That bit will wait until next month now when I take the tanks out ready ready for the shiny replacements.

If it has to wait until it's apart then it'll just wait until I start on the suspension overhaul in the Autumn. At least I have a feeling for what's going on.

Norfolk Mustard S4s #1 :)

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  • Gold FFM

Depending on how much rust/corrosion there is, its worth removing the top wishbone arms to see whether you have the correct amount of shim washers what size they are, and where they’re located. If you can get a median on the shim washers, then the remaining adjustment can be done at the ball joint end. Mine had everything and the kitchen sink on one side of the ball joints but still the castor was out, so moving the shim washers proved to be a good job.

Then you can check the shim plates and castor plates at the same time. An easy job for once!

Rear shims are more tricky, but unless you just buy a load of them and hope for the best, then there’s no way around it.

Margate Exotics.

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  • 1 month later...
  • Gold FFM

Good work, Tom. When those tanks arrive, they're so nice you won't want to put them in the car.

Might be worth fitting a new tailgate release cable while its out. If they break, you're in a world of pain.

Margate Exotics.

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  • Gold FFM
6 hours ago, Chillidoggy said:

Good work, Tom. When those tanks arrive, they're so nice you won't want to put them in the car.

I'm hoping to collect them myself since Andy lives very near my family. It's a fascinating place to look around having been over there once before.

6 hours ago, Chillidoggy said:

Might be worth fitting a new tailgate release cable while its out. If they break, you're in a world of pain.

Wasn't aware they were problematic. Hopefully they're not too expensive or difficult for me to obtain.

6 hours ago, jonwat said:

Very shoddy work on those tanks especially after all the effort to get them out :thumbdown:

My sentiments exactly. Especially after the battle my friend and I fought with that tank in particular to get it out yesterday!

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Norfolk Mustard S4s #1 :)

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  • Gold FFM

Ref the tailgate cable, I don’t think they’re silly money, and failure is not unheard of, which is why I changed mine.

If the cable fails, the only way I know of to open the tailgate is to cut an arm-sized hole behind the number plate, then try and reach the catches. This is of course assuming other arrangements haven’t been made, such as stringing bits of wire from each catch going to a hole somewhere accessible.

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Margate Exotics.

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  • Gold FFM

Is it worth me replacing/upgrading the fuel pump while the tank is out? Don't know if they're prone to issues, but assuming its the original in there that makes it 25+ years old and with the tanks out its as easy as it ever will be to replace it.

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Norfolk Mustard S4s #1 :)

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  • Gold FFM

I will just say that I detest doing the pump insitu.

British Fart to Florida, Nude to New York, Dunce to Denmark, Numpty to Newfoundland.  And Shitfaced Silly Sod to Sweden.

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  • Gold FFM

At the least you will want to look at the in tank hoses. If they are original I'll bet they have many cracks. Be sure to use hose suitable for submerging in fuel as well as carrying it. 👍

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  • 1 month later...
  • Gold FFM

Things are a bit quiet at the moment partly because I've been waiting for my new tanks to be made and partly down to the arrival of our first child, a little baby girl which I'm over the moon about.

The fuel tanks are now complete and passed their pressure test and are waiting for me to collect. I'm planning a trip down to Devon at the start of November so I'll be collecting them myself direct from Axminster and hoppefully I'll be able to get them fitted fairly soon after.

Anyway, before our little girl arrived I did manage to get the fuel sender and pump out of their respective tanks. There was quite a bit of rusty detritus around the fuel pump pickup area in the RH tank, but otherwise it doesn't actually look too bad in there. I had no particular concerns about this tank, so I think think this tank might still have some life in it given a quick clean out.

PXL_20211016_143100046.thumb.jpg.15c2169968787dc5ba824a9c534368e4.jpg

 

The other tank is definitely destined for the scrap heap. Its got a nice film of surface corrosion all over the inside, probably due to the fact it's been left empty and likely sweating over the past three years or more. But here is another perspective of the most significant "repair" on the LH tank.

PXL_20211016_143259829.thumb.jpg.537d3328f0fb5c1adaa87ebd21ab2553.jpg

 

Going to be ordering a new fuel pump and I've also noticed that the low fuel warning light doesn't seem to come on consistently. Having inspected the fuel level sender it looks like it's just a case of a light film of surface corrosion on the low fuel contact is the cause of that, probably due to the fact it's been in an empty fuel tank for quite some time. Will clean it up and give it a test and make sure its all functioning correctly before it goes back in.

The new power steering pipes from Lotus Bits have also arrived and first impressions of them are that they look good. Hopefully they will fit nicely too.

PXL_20211012_172246212.thumb.jpg.12b4cdcd3369489082e9531c953a5f2b.jpg

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Norfolk Mustard S4s #1 :)

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