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Stock steering wheel w airbag + spacer


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Hi, I am currently getting my Exige S next week, I am 187cm (6'2'') longer body. Today I test fitted my friends EX430Cup headroom is tight but is manageable (will get softop, probably most of the time roofless driving.)

Probably will get lowering brackets for seats or hardmount seats to the floor, which can get another 2''

Question is, I want to keep airbag function, and use stock steering wheel, but I need it to be closer to me, so I would like to use spacer + stock wheel.

 

I found somewhere guy using this spacer with stock wheel https://www.eliseparts.com/products/show/86/515/steering-wheel-adaptor/ Do you think it would work on exige S? 

 

Thanks (getting little bit nervous about fitting..

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Thank you! Yes, I am 187cm, 6'2'' long body.. 95kg.. I tried my friends Cup, and probably will go with soft top a d maybe lower seats. Tillet is option, but I am buying car with nice tan interior (-: so I will try to use Spacer and maybe some kind of home made mounts for seats.. 

 

 

 

Edited by notabene
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Surprised re your Ohlin vs Nitron comment for road use.  I found the Evora GT430 stunning on the road with Ohlins, and my caterham  with Ohlins managed the undulating Cotswold roads around me faster than anything else I’ve had.

Unless the ohlins you have experienced are set for track more than road use, they should be better than introns full stop. 

Edited by DJW

Previously owned :Exige 380,  Exige 350,  Evora 400,  Exige V6S,  Esprit GT3,  2-11 SC,  Evora S,  Elite 501

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4 hours ago, Seriouslylotus said:

Please explain

Based on personal experience and a general appreciation from others  that Ohlins are a step up from Nitrons (which are still bloody good in my Exige btw). 

My comment re setup for track was unless the suspension has been specifically designed for track which then compromises road use, I could see no reason why Ohlins would be worse than Norton’s for road use.  My experience has shown them to be better. 

Just my 2p worth , so happy to be corrected by those that understand  suspension better than moi ...which wouldn’t be hard ;) 

Edited by DJW

Previously owned :Exige 380,  Exige 350,  Evora 400,  Exige V6S,  Esprit GT3,  2-11 SC,  Evora S,  Elite 501

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21 hours ago, DJW said:

Based on personal experience and a general appreciation from others  that Ohlins are a step up from Nitrons (which are still bloody good in my Exige btw). 

My comment re setup for track was unless the suspension has been specifically designed for track which then compromises road use, I could see no reason why Ohlins would be worse than Norton’s for road use.  My experience has shown them to be better. 

Just my 2p worth , so happy to be corrected by those that understand  suspension better than moi ...which wouldn’t be hard ;) 

What settings are you running the Öhlins on road? And do you change them for track?

I find the Öhlins quite hard too hard for road use when properly set up for track.

If you have the choice between a Stairway to Heaven and a Highway to Hell don't forget the Nomex®!

Captain,  Lotus Airways. We fly lower! 

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Had ohlins on a previous caterham, and tbh never checked settings.  

Now run 2 way nitrons on the Exige 380 which I use on suggested road settings and then wind up harder for track.  Living  on edge of the Cotswold the country roads have quite a lot undulations, so really does test the suspension at speed.   Not sure I have optimum settings still for road use. 

I did try tack settings for road use and although turn in was excellent , balance perfect etc,  any bumps in the road had the car literally taking off, so yes I do change settings for road use vs track. 

Edited by DJW

Previously owned :Exige 380,  Exige 350,  Evora 400,  Exige V6S,  Esprit GT3,  2-11 SC,  Evora S,  Elite 501

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3 hours ago, TBD said:

What settings are you running the Öhlins on road? And do you change them for track?

I find the Öhlins quite hard too hard for road use when properly set up for track.

I change my Ohlin settings when I get to track.

www.alias23.com

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Hey @notabene

I don't know if you already found my posts on doing exactly this mod, but if not, try here...

... as you can see I did have to make a small mod to the spacer, using a small lathe which I luckily own. Maybe you have access to one, or know someone who does. I also made some spacers to assist with correct assembly, and changed the bolts for longer ones.

I suspect the spacer that George linked to avoids all this messing about, so I'd go with that instead.

I'm not sure you can actually drop the stock seats by much, because the seat hangs down below the mounts, so dropping the mounts doesn't get you far. Certainly not 2" unless I'm completely mistaken. Maybe it was different on the S?

Hope that helps

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On 22/01/2019 at 13:50, alias23 said:

I change my Ohlin settings when I get to track.

Exactly. That’s the point of having them adjustable.

I had my Ohlins with 15% softer springs (800/1050) than the full race spec they come with (950/1250) and found it a good compromise. Firm but OK on the road, and good on track with some damping adjustments.

Now I’ve gone Evora they’re for sale if anyone’s interested. Correct front mounts and 2 sets of springs. I’ll get them in the classifieds but PM me if you fancy them.

 

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On 27/01/2019 at 16:25, MartynB said:

Hey @notabene

I don't know if you already found my posts on doing exactly this mod, but if not, try here...

... as you can see I did have to make a small mod to the spacer, using a small lathe which I luckily own. Maybe you have access to one, or know someone who does. I also made some spacers to assist with correct assembly, and changed the bolts for longer ones.

I suspect the spacer that George linked to avoids all this messing about, so I'd go with that instead.

I'm not sure you can actually drop the stock seats by much, because the seat hangs down below the mounts, so dropping the mounts doesn't get you far. Certainly not 2" unless I'm completely mistaken. Maybe it was different on the S?

Hope that helps

I had the 30mm elise shop spacer in mine. I found it does fit without needing a lathe, it’s just a very tight fit in the wheel.

I also raised the steering column (about 15mm) with some washers and dropped the seat (about 20mm) with a mod where you take off the front offset mounts, flip them upside down and put them on the rear.

Edited by KJD
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11 hours ago, KJD said:

I had the 30mm elise shop spacer in mine. I found it does fit without needing a lathe, it’s just a very tight fit in the wheel.

I also raised the steering column (about 15mm) with some washers and dropped the seat (about 20mm) with a mod where you take off the front offset mounts, flip them upside down and put them on the rear.

Can you tell me more how to raise steering column? Is it for exige S? 

 

This is the diagram https://www.deroure.com/diagrams.asp?TBL=11998&MAK=1&MDL=40&SMA=0&SMO=0&ST=&SC=0

 

Is it necessary in number (3) and (16) or only 3? How thick was the washer? Thanks

 

Thanks

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6 hours ago, notabene said:

Can you tell me more how to raise steering column? Is it for exige S? 

 

This is the diagram https://www.deroure.com/diagrams.asp?TBL=11998&MAK=1&MDL=40&SMA=0&SMO=0&ST=&SC=0

 

Is it necessary in number (3) and (16) or only 3? How thick was the washer? Thanks

 

Thanks

Between the triangular brackets (4 and 6) and the u-shaped bit on the main column.

IIRC I got 3mm of washers in before the column hit the shroud. That becomes about 10-15mm at the wheel.

There is a thread on the playground about it if you do a search.

Edit. Here you go: https://forums.the playground.org/p/7505492

Edited by KJD
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  • 3 weeks later...
On 01/02/2019 at 12:23, KJD said:

Between the triangular brackets (4 and 6) and the u-shaped bit on the main column.

IIRC I got 3mm of washers in before the column hit the shroud. That becomes about 10-15mm at the wheel.

There is a thread on the playground about it if you do a search.

Edit. Here you go: https://forums.the playground.org/p/7505492

Thanks for great info. Is it necessary to remove some interior parts or is it accessible from bottom. How long it takes to you? 

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36 minutes ago, KJD said:

If I remember, you need to remove the top and bottom of the shroud.

It does not take long, (about 1 hour) but I have done 3 cars now so have the experience!

Thanks. Dont you have some pictures from the removal or before and after the position of steering wheel? Thanks

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 18/02/2019 at 09:55, KJD said:

If I remember, you need to remove the top and bottom of the shroud.

It does not take long, (about 1 hour) but I have done 3 cars now so have the experience!

Do you have a guide on how to remove the shroud? This sounds like something that's worth doing!

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2 hours ago, ECG1000 said:

Do you have a guide on how to remove the shroud? This sounds like something that's worth doing!

Remove 2 screws in front of the stalks, two more screws underneath - pull the bottom part off, pull the top part off. It's 2 minute job. You can remove the biennale if you wish, but the is no pint (that just yanks off and you might ned to retrieve clips so wouldn't bother)

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Thanks @MrP_ ,you got in first.

I’d just say if you’re not confident taking the shroud off, should you be messing with something as important as your steering.

All modifications are at the owner’s own risk, etc.

Edited by KJD
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