notabene Posted January 19, 2019 Report Share Posted January 19, 2019 Hi, I am currently getting my Exige S next week, I am 187cm (6'2'') longer body. Today I test fitted my friends EX430Cup headroom is tight but is manageable (will get softop, probably most of the time roofless driving.) Probably will get lowering brackets for seats or hardmount seats to the floor, which can get another 2'' Question is, I want to keep airbag function, and use stock steering wheel, but I need it to be closer to me, so I would like to use spacer + stock wheel. I found somewhere guy using this spacer with stock wheel https://www.eliseparts.com/products/show/86/515/steering-wheel-adaptor/ Do you think it would work on exige S? Thanks (getting little bit nervous about fitting.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GFWilliams Posted January 20, 2019 Report Share Posted January 20, 2019 Hello! If you're tall, you'll benefit from a Tillett B5 a lot. You can get the steering wheel spacer from here: https://komo-tec.com/Shop/en/Exige/MK3-Toyota-V6-350-380/Interieur/Steering-Wheel-Spacer-for-cars-with-Airbag.html Hope this helps! George Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
notabene Posted January 20, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2019 (edited) Thank you! Yes, I am 187cm, 6'2'' long body.. 95kg.. I tried my friends Cup, and probably will go with soft top a d maybe lower seats. Tillet is option, but I am buying car with nice tan interior (-: so I will try to use Spacer and maybe some kind of home made mounts for seats.. Edited January 20, 2019 by notabene Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GFWilliams Posted January 20, 2019 Report Share Posted January 20, 2019 I'm sure Tillett could match the colour! I'm 6' and really struggled with the standard seat, both for comfort and for sitting too high. My car is perfect now! Nitron are much better thank Ohlin on the road, Ohlin are better for track 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJW Posted January 20, 2019 Report Share Posted January 20, 2019 (edited) Surprised re your Ohlin vs Nitron comment for road use. I found the Evora GT430 stunning on the road with Ohlins, and my caterham with Ohlins managed the undulating Cotswold roads around me faster than anything else I’ve had. Unless the ohlins you have experienced are set for track more than road use, they should be better than introns full stop. Edited January 20, 2019 by DJW Quote Previously owned :Exige 380, Exige 350, Evora 400, Exige V6S, Esprit GT3, 2-11 SC, Evora S, Elite 501 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seriouslylotus Posted January 21, 2019 Report Share Posted January 21, 2019 11 hours ago, DJW said: Unless the ohlins you have experienced are set for track more than road use, they should be better than introns full stop. Please explain Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post alias23 Posted January 21, 2019 Popular Post Report Share Posted January 21, 2019 2 hours ago, Seriouslylotus said: Please explain Because Ohlins are Gold and Gold is better 3 Quote www.alias23.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJW Posted January 21, 2019 Report Share Posted January 21, 2019 (edited) 4 hours ago, Seriouslylotus said: Please explain Based on personal experience and a general appreciation from others that Ohlins are a step up from Nitrons (which are still bloody good in my Exige btw). My comment re setup for track was unless the suspension has been specifically designed for track which then compromises road use, I could see no reason why Ohlins would be worse than Norton’s for road use. My experience has shown them to be better. Just my 2p worth , so happy to be corrected by those that understand suspension better than moi ...which wouldn’t be hard Edited January 21, 2019 by DJW Quote Previously owned :Exige 380, Exige 350, Evora 400, Exige V6S, Esprit GT3, 2-11 SC, Evora S, Elite 501 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TBD Posted January 22, 2019 Report Share Posted January 22, 2019 21 hours ago, DJW said: Based on personal experience and a general appreciation from others that Ohlins are a step up from Nitrons (which are still bloody good in my Exige btw). My comment re setup for track was unless the suspension has been specifically designed for track which then compromises road use, I could see no reason why Ohlins would be worse than Norton’s for road use. My experience has shown them to be better. Just my 2p worth , so happy to be corrected by those that understand suspension better than moi ...which wouldn’t be hard What settings are you running the Öhlins on road? And do you change them for track? I find the Öhlins quite hard too hard for road use when properly set up for track. Quote If you have the choice between a Stairway to Heaven and a Highway to Hell don't forget the Nomex®! Captain, Lotus Airways. We fly lower! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJW Posted January 22, 2019 Report Share Posted January 22, 2019 (edited) Had ohlins on a previous caterham, and tbh never checked settings. Now run 2 way nitrons on the Exige 380 which I use on suggested road settings and then wind up harder for track. Living on edge of the Cotswold the country roads have quite a lot undulations, so really does test the suspension at speed. Not sure I have optimum settings still for road use. I did try tack settings for road use and although turn in was excellent , balance perfect etc, any bumps in the road had the car literally taking off, so yes I do change settings for road use vs track. Edited January 22, 2019 by DJW Quote Previously owned :Exige 380, Exige 350, Evora 400, Exige V6S, Esprit GT3, 2-11 SC, Evora S, Elite 501 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alias23 Posted January 22, 2019 Report Share Posted January 22, 2019 3 hours ago, TBD said: What settings are you running the Öhlins on road? And do you change them for track? I find the Öhlins quite hard too hard for road use when properly set up for track. I change my Ohlin settings when I get to track. Quote www.alias23.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MartynB Posted January 27, 2019 Report Share Posted January 27, 2019 Hey @notabene I don't know if you already found my posts on doing exactly this mod, but if not, try here... ... as you can see I did have to make a small mod to the spacer, using a small lathe which I luckily own. Maybe you have access to one, or know someone who does. I also made some spacers to assist with correct assembly, and changed the bolts for longer ones. I suspect the spacer that George linked to avoids all this messing about, so I'd go with that instead. I'm not sure you can actually drop the stock seats by much, because the seat hangs down below the mounts, so dropping the mounts doesn't get you far. Certainly not 2" unless I'm completely mistaken. Maybe it was different on the S? Hope that helps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KJD Posted January 31, 2019 Report Share Posted January 31, 2019 On 22/01/2019 at 13:50, alias23 said: I change my Ohlin settings when I get to track. Exactly. That’s the point of having them adjustable. I had my Ohlins with 15% softer springs (800/1050) than the full race spec they come with (950/1250) and found it a good compromise. Firm but OK on the road, and good on track with some damping adjustments. Now I’ve gone Evora they’re for sale if anyone’s interested. Correct front mounts and 2 sets of springs. I’ll get them in the classifieds but PM me if you fancy them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KJD Posted January 31, 2019 Report Share Posted January 31, 2019 (edited) On 27/01/2019 at 16:25, MartynB said: Hey @notabene I don't know if you already found my posts on doing exactly this mod, but if not, try here... ... as you can see I did have to make a small mod to the spacer, using a small lathe which I luckily own. Maybe you have access to one, or know someone who does. I also made some spacers to assist with correct assembly, and changed the bolts for longer ones. I suspect the spacer that George linked to avoids all this messing about, so I'd go with that instead. I'm not sure you can actually drop the stock seats by much, because the seat hangs down below the mounts, so dropping the mounts doesn't get you far. Certainly not 2" unless I'm completely mistaken. Maybe it was different on the S? Hope that helps I had the 30mm elise shop spacer in mine. I found it does fit without needing a lathe, it’s just a very tight fit in the wheel. I also raised the steering column (about 15mm) with some washers and dropped the seat (about 20mm) with a mod where you take off the front offset mounts, flip them upside down and put them on the rear. Edited January 31, 2019 by KJD 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
notabene Posted February 1, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2019 11 hours ago, KJD said: I had the 30mm elise shop spacer in mine. I found it does fit without needing a lathe, it’s just a very tight fit in the wheel. I also raised the steering column (about 15mm) with some washers and dropped the seat (about 20mm) with a mod where you take off the front offset mounts, flip them upside down and put them on the rear. Can you tell me more how to raise steering column? Is it for exige S? This is the diagram https://www.deroure.com/diagrams.asp?TBL=11998&MAK=1&MDL=40&SMA=0&SMO=0&ST=&SC=0 Is it necessary in number (3) and (16) or only 3? How thick was the washer? Thanks Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KJD Posted February 1, 2019 Report Share Posted February 1, 2019 (edited) 6 hours ago, notabene said: Can you tell me more how to raise steering column? Is it for exige S? This is the diagram https://www.deroure.com/diagrams.asp?TBL=11998&MAK=1&MDL=40&SMA=0&SMO=0&ST=&SC=0 Is it necessary in number (3) and (16) or only 3? How thick was the washer? Thanks Thanks Between the triangular brackets (4 and 6) and the u-shaped bit on the main column. IIRC I got 3mm of washers in before the column hit the shroud. That becomes about 10-15mm at the wheel. There is a thread on the playground about it if you do a search. Edit. Here you go: https://forums.the playground.org/p/7505492 Edited February 1, 2019 by KJD 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
notabene Posted February 18, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2019 On 01/02/2019 at 12:23, KJD said: Between the triangular brackets (4 and 6) and the u-shaped bit on the main column. IIRC I got 3mm of washers in before the column hit the shroud. That becomes about 10-15mm at the wheel. There is a thread on the playground about it if you do a search. Edit. Here you go: https://forums.the playground.org/p/7505492 Thanks for great info. Is it necessary to remove some interior parts or is it accessible from bottom. How long it takes to you? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KJD Posted February 18, 2019 Report Share Posted February 18, 2019 If I remember, you need to remove the top and bottom of the shroud. It does not take long, (about 1 hour) but I have done 3 cars now so have the experience! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
notabene Posted February 18, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2019 36 minutes ago, KJD said: If I remember, you need to remove the top and bottom of the shroud. It does not take long, (about 1 hour) but I have done 3 cars now so have the experience! Thanks. Dont you have some pictures from the removal or before and after the position of steering wheel? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KJD Posted February 18, 2019 Report Share Posted February 18, 2019 Best I have is this. You can see the column is up against the top of the shroud. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ECG1000 Posted March 5, 2019 Report Share Posted March 5, 2019 On 18/02/2019 at 09:55, KJD said: If I remember, you need to remove the top and bottom of the shroud. It does not take long, (about 1 hour) but I have done 3 cars now so have the experience! Do you have a guide on how to remove the shroud? This sounds like something that's worth doing! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrP_ Posted March 5, 2019 Report Share Posted March 5, 2019 2 hours ago, ECG1000 said: Do you have a guide on how to remove the shroud? This sounds like something that's worth doing! Remove 2 screws in front of the stalks, two more screws underneath - pull the bottom part off, pull the top part off. It's 2 minute job. You can remove the biennale if you wish, but the is no pint (that just yanks off and you might ned to retrieve clips so wouldn't bother) Quote instagram.com/mycarsetc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KJD Posted March 5, 2019 Report Share Posted March 5, 2019 (edited) Thanks @MrP_ ,you got in first. I’d just say if you’re not confident taking the shroud off, should you be messing with something as important as your steering. All modifications are at the owner’s own risk, etc. Edited March 5, 2019 by KJD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
notabene Posted March 10, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2019 Is this the screw? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KJD Posted March 12, 2019 Report Share Posted March 12, 2019 No. Bolt number 9 on this: https://www.deroure.com/diagrams.asp?TBL=11998&MAK=1&MDL=40&SMA=0&SMO=0&ST=&SC=0 As I said before, please don’t mess with your steering if you are not absolutely sure what you’re doing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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