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Sounds about right what Ian says,   That it is the wrong slave cylinder.  Only other option is the release bearing mechanism has snapped off at the end, i.e the bit that the pushrod presses into

For the 4 cylinder cars, from the SE onwards, see  

I saw!!!! the push rod of his car mesure 850 mm i thinck the mécanic man who change the clutch ( be cause it s a new one ) madré a mistake and replace the push rod by another one s.

Sounds about right what Ian says,   That it is the wrong slave cylinder. 

Only other option is the release bearing mechanism has snapped off at the end, i.e the bit that the pushrod presses into when you put your foot on the clutch pedal.   remove his slave cylinder and look inside the opening with a torch, it should be fairly easy to spot. 

If its a project car, could even be someone has fitted the gearbox back in with the release mechanism, i.e a rush job to make a car look more complete, stranger things have happened :)

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  • 5 months later...

PO replaced clutch fork on my car. After only 5 K miles , my push rod burrowed a ~3-4mm deep hole in the adjusting screw and became one. Is this an indication of not enough slack/play?

What should be a proper adjustment set up?  BTW: I'm in the process of replacing  0.70" Girling MC with 5/8" Wilwood MC.

Any advice?

Edited by MrDangerUS
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  • 1 month later...

My original pushrod measures 99,2mm after 26 years of use, so I installed a new one (in a lighter material) and made it to 100mm and 6,2mm thickness as the original.

The adjusting distance for the specal bolt between the clutch fork and the pushrod is on my SE 1990 12,5mm. No visible Wear on that. But I found the pushrod to have been incorrectly adjusted some tim ein the past, before me acquireing the car.

Kind regards,

jacques

 

Nobody does it better - than Lotus ;)

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On 11/07/2019 at 10:47, MrDangerUS said:

PO replaced clutch fork on my car. After only 5 K miles , my push rod burrowed a ~3-4mm deep hole in the adjusting screw and became one. Is this an indication of not enough slack/play?

What should be a proper adjustment set up?  BTW: I'm in the process of replacing  0.70" Girling MC with 5/8" Wilwood MC.

Any advice?

I've learned a lesson...

Don't go with 5/8" MC!

It has not enough stroke and volume under the piston to fully dis-engage the clutch on S4s. I went back to .70" dia MC, Wilwood PN# 269-6579, with 1.4" stroke and 0.53cuin volume. Works perfectly!

Also, replaced the abutment screw with new stainless steel part from JAE.

Edited by MrDangerUS
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