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Hello from Finland 🇫🇮


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I can not really evaluate the quality changes, because when the car came to me it allready had Protech and after few thousand kilometers the other one did let go. The new ones have not been thorougly tested yet, because my early kms are usually In range 2 to 4 thousand. 

It seems that Protech is only affordable option available. 

When I need to replace the front ones In the future, I might just bite the bullet and have Lotac/Bilstein set, because I am not fond of changing the original setup and the ride height. 

Next thing I might be doing In the near future is replacing the rear end bushes. I am tempted to use poly bushes, because I do not fancy replacing the original ones one by one. I have the impression that polybushes withstand the time little better than rubber ones. 

"Older I get, faster I was"

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Hi ther I'm from Finland and I just bought me an Excel. There is only 3 of them registered here if I'm correct so that's why I thought I'd beter go to a forum where there is actually some one that kno

I wisited the museum today as I was driving past it and here is a picture of the exhibition.

Hi I got a new set of wheels and tires under the car and here is a few pictures. Sadly one of the wheels was slightly crocked so I'm refurbisching a new one for that corner but it rund with the crocke

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Poly bushes are durable and so far fine, they tend to squick when the lubrication wears off. I my self would not use them on a street car when driven more as the re-greasing is not fun. This obviously apply only on busches with twisting motion e.g. suspension arms everywhere else they work fine.

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I have had the impression that polybushes are "maintanance free and everlasting".

Maybe it is better to use the rubber bushes after all. 

I am pretty neurotic about any noises from chassis and it was quite difficult to adjust the mind to Lotus after Mercedes etc. Now my daily ride is Volkswagen Phaeton and I have replaced allmost all the bushes In the front suspension and there is still squicking sound coming from the front somewhere. It only comes when the weather is cold and after some driving it disappers. 

There is all kind of "extra" noises present, but I have get used to them by now. I still avoid driving with sunroof open though😃

If I do that all I do is to listen is there some extra noises coming from the engine... 

 

"Older I get, faster I was"

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Talk about squiks, I have been trying to figure out how the boot lid springs should be mounted, I only have one left and it makes an horible squiq when opened. This has been as long as I have had the car but as last sommer the trunk smeld of petrol it was any way useles but now that it seems thatthe smel is disapearing and I am using the trunk it is starting to anoy me. Any sugestions what is wring. The spring and the hing make the sound when they rub agains one and other but why they do it in such a manner is a mystery to me. I did disasemble the the spring and also tried to fit it to the other side but that did not solve it.

The part seem like the ones in the manual so they shoul be right.

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I have been experimenting with a small gearbox for the speedo as it seemd that I had a pretty big error on it. I 3D printed a smal gerabox with the best gestimate and printed it. IFirst oroblem was that the gears from theprinter are a but rough. This how ever seem to level aout by runing the gearbix so the woble on the needle disapears gradually still some left but lts see in awerk of driving. Sadly I thinkthe first gear ratio over corrected it a bit so might be that I have to still print a new one, but as I have a working concept now it is not that big if a deal. Just that I have to run the new gearbox also in.

 

IMG_20200609_113025.jpg

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Today I experumebted more and realized that the issue seems to be with my Cauge and it is a wierd one. The meeter is now consistant to 0- 70kmh spot on sudenly when going over 70 it almost imidiately jumps to 80.

As I made my previous mesurement I came to the conclusion that as it in the begining was real speed 80 meeter showed 100 and with real speed 50 it was showing 60 I figured that I need some 20 % more and tried to fix it with the gearbox. That of course did not work. As by tighting the spring with a 10kmh its now spot on exept for the strange jump at 70kmh. I just do not understand how that can be? It is just a spinning magnet that works against a spring. But as today its right on the money up to 70 kmh. Would be nice if it would be up to 120 thought as that's the top speef on highway.

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  • 2 months later...
Posted (edited)

We had a meeting for British cars here in Finland and I hade the opportunity to park my early Excel beside the facelift model and was supriced ti realize how much small things had changed.

1. Taligate opening is bigger on new

2. rear window is bigger on new

3. The front spoiler/lip is diferent

4. the hood is different

5. Obviously the wings are diferent.

6. obviously the wheels and rims

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IMG_20200809_124442.jpg

Edited by Osku
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Nice comparison Osku.

Rare site to see 2 Excels side by side in Finland. Helsinki area? Nice London route master in the background.

Tony

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Now day's it's easyer to meet the other Excel and other Lotus drivers here  in Finland as we got a Lotus car club Finland established last autumn.

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If they'd like an online community I'd be happy to set them up a club section on here :)

 

88 Esprit NA, 89 Esprit Turbo SE, Evora, Evora S, Evora IPS, Evora S IPS, Evora S IPS SR, Evora 400, Elise S1, Elise S1 111s, Evora GT410 Sport

Evora NA

For forum issues, please contact the Moderators. I will aim to respond to emails/PM's Mon-Fri 9-6 GMT. 

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We have a page already

https://www.lccf.fi/

 

The chat part is more work as some one has to moderate it and with the amount of members we have, we decided to have it open for members only.

14 hours ago, Bibs said:

If they'd like an online community I'd be happy to set them up a club section on here :)

So what is it excactly you are suggesting.

I guess you can not moderate Finnish?

 

 

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I can set you up a LCCF Finland section here...

https://www.thelotusforums.com/forums/forum/clubs/

I can't see there being much need for moderation, I doubt Finnish Lotus owners are hard work in that respect but you will be able to allocate some 'club leaders' who will have limited moderation abilities. It's very simple, only takes a minute to do. 

We're also hugely present on Google and already have a good number of members visit from Finland so I'd like to hope it'll not only help your fellow owners but also help find a few more.

88 Esprit NA, 89 Esprit Turbo SE, Evora, Evora S, Evora IPS, Evora S IPS, Evora S IPS SR, Evora 400, Elise S1, Elise S1 111s, Evora GT410 Sport

Evora NA

For forum issues, please contact the Moderators. I will aim to respond to emails/PM's Mon-Fri 9-6 GMT. 

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  • 1 month later...

I thought I would change the slightly dripping front crank seal and wondered can I use one from a common was it Opel or Vauxhal and if so then wich one?

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I've never seen them cross referenced but they are in all likelihood an off the shelf component from another car, or at least those sold by non-genuine stockists are*. As the early cranks were (IIRC) the same as in the Vauxhall slant 4 engine, I'd suggest looking at those (Viva etc). Logically the crank diameter will be the same as the Vauxhall, but there's no reason the outside of the seal has to be the same, I think it will be but that's a guess.

*Genuine camshaft seals have directional ribs, so that oil is pulled back from the lip of the seal as the camshaft rotates, what I cannot recall is whether genuine crank seals have that too.

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  • 4 weeks later...

I still have the shock absorber issue on this car and I have come to the conclusien that they are shot. So I will change the shocks this winter. I still wonder wich kit I should chose, today I got an intresting option wich is not cheap but sounds like quality and that was from a company in finland that builds Bilsteins to speck. They would make them as a coilover set for aproximately 600 each total 2400€

Its a heafty sum but my experience with bilsteins is that they are usually worth it. Whats your thoughts should I go with the Bilsteins or some of the others like the ones SJS sels?

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  • Gold FFM

I would definitely speak to LotusBits - Mike has a ton of experience with these cars.

You do not want to be second-guessing or experimenting with suspension on a Lotus. 

I took the relatively new GAZ off my Elise S1 and bought factory spec Bilstein (Koni no longer available). They cost £960 for the parts (dampers and springs ready to fit), direct from the factory (via B&C). Less jiggly than the GAZ. 

Justin

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I have the set that lotus bits sell under the car right now(installed by previous owner) the set is shot with pretty low miles by the looks of things. So I suspect the quality is an issue. But they are cheap.

That seems to be the general feeling I got from Lotus Bits price is Ok quality not so. But the quality is Ok for the price. Right now I would prefere quality more than low price.

 

Edited by Osku
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I'm surprised re LotusBits. I would call Mike and have a chat. He may do various options depending on clients budget. 

Justin 

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the set is shot with pretty low miles by the looks of things. 

What's your definition of 'shot' Osku? 

My cars still got the original units on I believe. They look like they've been in a salt bath for weeks with crusty rust everywhere, but the damper rod is fine and they still damp properly. 

If I put mirrors under the car at a show, they'd be an embarrassment, but they still function fine. You can get the damping functionality tested if you take them off the car. 

Tony 

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One more thing I thought I would just quickly do was to change the lightbolbs on the fuelcauge and rev counter. Well I alreafy knew how to remove the speedo and thought tha I would just stick my hand back there and remove the bulb..... No my hand do not fit back there well I have to remove the rev counter then,..... I got one of the nuts lose but cant get my fingers around the other one.

How should I oficially do this as I removed the stering column cover and the four philips head screws around the instrument suspecting that I could move them all at o se but the instrumenst are obviously not mounted with them.

According to the manual it should come lose but it won't.

This is the early dash.

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IMG_20201116_192717.jpg

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well I git it lose today, it was somehow stuck but the only thing holding it wa the two tabs on the pictures. Mostly it just demanded enogh force wich I earlyer was reluctant to applie in the fear of breaking something.

Now that I got it out and messured the voltage to the dash lamps it was at 7 volt. I tried the dimmer but when pushed over themud point it went to zero so it seems the dimmer switch is shot. The Dimmer swtch looks like some I seen on some Triumphs was it a TR6 or somthing is that right?.

IMG_20201117_194836.jpg

IMG_20201117_194842.jpg

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