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Can anyone confirm if i remove the 6 bolts and the two semi curcular plates should the cast steel section just come away?  Mine is stuck so i am checking I haven’t missed anything. Plus can you buy the central cast steel part that the oil pipe connects to. Thanks

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A good soak in WD40 is helpful. If you still have some stud or easy-out protruding, can you get mole grips on it? If there isn't anything sticking out, you may find you can tap it around with a bif sc

It should come apart if you have removed the bolts. There is a big seal which the compressor housing sits on.

Is the cast section damaged? You can put new bushes in it. :)

It's getting there......

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Tim. Its all apart. Bit of heat and it was fine. The six bolts on the cast steel had rounded heads through rust. Just cut the heads off. Now have got one out with heat and easi out. Got one with a snapped easi out......ahahahaha! And so have drill through the others and filled the  hole with wd 40 which will now sit for a week. Any ideas on getting the broken easi out?

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Pain in the arse Phil due to the easy out been high tensile,  Have a word with Buddsy on here, i cant remember what they call it, but its a system used to remove broken studs, you will have to take it to a workshop to have it done, i think its like an electrode that zaps out the stud its called EDM.

Not sure how far that was in or your easy out out broke, i.e was it flush with the surface of the flange or inside. 

Quick flick on youtube shows a good system if its way inside.  The only part i would not agree with is tightening the guide drill bolt until it snaps, i would of simply put it in tight and cut it off flush, centre punched and then drilled the guide hole.  Downside to this method is A.  you will need to purchase some decent quality drill bits that are up to the job, these are usally expensive.  B.  it has the possibility to go wrong, i.e your drill bit could snap or if the drill phase goes well, the final easy out phase could snap again lol. 

With easy outs you need to center punch, drill a small guide hole, and gradually increase the size of the hole as far as you can take it to make life easier for the easy out or the torsional twist is to much and they just  sadly snap. 

https://youtu.be/TYGLS4Gbfoo

https://youtu.be/YbeKxFBZrF8

https://youtu.be/m2gm1YDuJU4

A

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A good soak in WD40 is helpful. If you still have some stud or easy-out protruding, can you get mole grips on it? If there isn't anything sticking out, you may find you can tap it around with a bif screwdriver, as the tension should have gone from removing the head of the bolt. 

The other method, as Dan mentioned is spark erosion.

Hope you get it out OK. :) 

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It's getting there......

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Thanks guys. Unfortunately i will be away all week working but will be investigating the link above and deciding best course of action. Ill get it out one way or the other

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Has anyone got the cast steel housing off a turbo that can be used with no work. I have sheated bolts, its been sat in Wd40 for over week and i have heated red hot and still wont budge. An element of I can t be arsed any more. Thanks 

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You are heating the whole house, which wont help. 

If you weld a nut on top of the broken bolt, it will loosen and you can unwind it. Done that several times. 

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Try soaking the entire housing in diesel overnight. That has never failed for me, and you are going to be rebuilding the entire charger anyway.

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