Nickp1 Posted February 16, 2020 Author Report Share Posted February 16, 2020 Front crossmember now all boxed in 😀 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickp1 Posted February 19, 2020 Author Report Share Posted February 19, 2020 All boxed in now.... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickp1 Posted February 19, 2020 Author Report Share Posted February 19, 2020 Rear supports now fully welded and diff still lines up nicely. Laser checked to align with chassis... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickp1 Posted March 1, 2020 Author Report Share Posted March 1, 2020 (edited) I've had to admit defeat on trying to get the inboard Jag brakes to fit within the confines of the Lotus chassis, especially the handbrake, as there's just not the room to do it. So plan B went into operation today when I picked up a complete axle from an X300 XJ6. These used big 305mm outboard discs with an internal handbrake drum. Apparently, according to google, these can be retrofitted to the earlier XJS diff / arms / shafts to move the brakes outboard. It will mean an increase in unsprung weight but it does seem the best option and will let me add strength back into the chassis again where it was removed to make way for the brakes. Edited March 1, 2020 by Nickp1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
USAndretti42 Posted March 1, 2020 Report Share Posted March 1, 2020 How did the big, heavy Jags get away with using the half-shafts as the top links when the lightweight Lotus used to wear them out so quickly? Quote S4 Elan, Elan +2S, Federal-spec, World Championship Edition S2 Esprit #42, S1 Elise, Excel SE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickp1 Posted March 2, 2020 Author Report Share Posted March 2, 2020 The UJs are a fair bit bigger which helps I suppose 🤔 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickp1 Posted March 4, 2020 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2020 Bit of metal fabrication today to add some strength back into the chassis. Just tacked in for now. Need to make the other side look similar 😉 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickp1 Posted March 10, 2020 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2020 Chassis welding finished at last!! 😀 Next job, get the IRS mounted back in there and try to figure out a handbrake cable solution..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickp1 Posted March 12, 2020 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2020 Quick trial fit of a wheel onto the X300 hub using it's own driveshaft and XJS bottom arm. Looks like it kinda works with a rough check showing the camber to be in the right ball park at -2deg. Looks like I'll need some longer handbrake cables making up for it to work right though. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickp1 Posted March 14, 2020 Author Report Share Posted March 14, 2020 Latest trial fit of body onto chassis. Jag IRS with outboard discs shows -1.5deg rear camber at normal ride height, happy with that. Need to drop the engine/box in again to trial fit the Soarer exhaust manifolds I've just got. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
black eclat Posted March 15, 2020 Report Share Posted March 15, 2020 Really love the work you are doing here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Nickp1 Posted March 15, 2020 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted March 15, 2020 Thanks, some of it's not easy, but if it was then everyone would be doing it 😉 Engine back in today to try the 'new' Soarer exhaust manifolds, look just the job with plenty of clearance 😀 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Nickp1 Posted March 21, 2020 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted March 21, 2020 Managed to get the manifolds tacked together today- 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Straker Posted March 22, 2020 Report Share Posted March 22, 2020 Very impressive Looking forward to seeing the next steps. From the photos it looks v close to the engine mounts, are you going to reshape them or wrap the mount and exhaust? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickp1 Posted March 22, 2020 Author Report Share Posted March 22, 2020 Yes they are a bit close so I will have to wrap the manifold and probably make an ally heat shield for the rubber. I could move the box section slightly but that would be a PITA as the engine position is so critical. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickp1 Posted March 22, 2020 Author Report Share Posted March 22, 2020 Engine / box back in with rear end to measure up for the custom prop. Also need to workout a handbrake solution before I can progress with anything else. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickp1 Posted March 26, 2020 Author Report Share Posted March 26, 2020 (edited) Been cobbling a handbrake solution together. Welded the end of the original of the Jag cable into an ALKO trailer connector and used a pair of 770mm trailer handbrake cables. Using the original Lotus cable to pull on a balance bar pulling on 2 brackets bolted to chassis, more pics to follow...... Total spend £40 😀 Edited March 26, 2020 by Nickp1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Nickp1 Posted April 12, 2020 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted April 12, 2020 Productive lockdown weekend in the mancave. Remade exhaust manifolds as wasn't happy with the routing of my first attempt. Chassis fully primed, rear hubs rebuilt/greased up and brakes refitted. Rear axle refitted for the umpteenth time to try its Lotus / trailer / Jaguar hybrid handbrake system. Feck me it actually works!! I left it on so it wouldn't roll away 😉 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickp1 Posted April 13, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 13, 2020 Forgot to mention, I've also made a trailing arm for the rear. The Jag IRS doesn't strictly need them as the bottom arms are very strong and on roller bearings. Many 'hot rods' don't bother with them but I wasn't happy doing without the extra control / support they should offer. The only way to do it right is to get the front mount directly in line with the bottom arm bearings on the diff. I managed to do this, just, and it works really well with no binding or tight spots. It's made with 3mm thick wall 1" box section. It couldn't be made in one piece but I have added strengthening gussets and it feels good and sturdy now 😀 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickp1 Posted April 20, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 20, 2020 Cracking on during lockdown..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chillidoggy Posted April 21, 2020 Report Share Posted April 21, 2020 I’m no expert on suspension, but does the forward pivot of the trailing arm directly line up with the inboard radius arm pivot? I’m thinking if it isn’t, it may describe a different arc, but TBC. Or am I wide of the mark, and it doesn’t move enough to matter? Quote Margate Exotics. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickp1 Posted April 21, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2020 It is directly in line or near as I can tell anyway. There's little or no pulling on the bushes as the suspension goes through it's full travel anyway 😁 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickp1 Posted April 25, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2020 Starting to bolt some shiny bits on this weekend 😀 Poly bushed bottom arms are a proper PITA to get in and line up for the bolts!! 😡 Bought a little something (Race Technology Dash2) to modernise the old girls dash 😎 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickp1 Posted April 25, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2020 Tested a theory today. One of my bottom arms was a bit knackered. The cup for the ARB bushes was rotted away. New ones aren't cheap at £125 each. On the opposite side of the arm is a plain hole which happens to be the perfect size for Mini stabilizer arm bushes. The bore of these bushes is also a perfect fit for the ARB. So I swapped the arms side to side and it seems to work a treat. The Mini bushes seem to be more substantial, come in various grades and cost peanuts. Will see how they perform and last once on the road. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeeech Posted April 25, 2020 Report Share Posted April 25, 2020 That's useful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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