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Loxus Eclat V8


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  • 2 weeks later...

I've had to admit defeat on trying to get the inboard Jag brakes to fit within the confines of the Lotus chassis, especially the handbrake, as there's just not the room to do it. So plan B went into operation today when I picked up a complete axle from an X300 XJ6. These used big 305mm outboard discs with an internal handbrake drum. Apparently, according to google, these can be retrofitted to the earlier XJS diff / arms / shafts to move the brakes outboard. It will mean an increase in unsprung weight but it does seem the best option and will let me add strength back into the chassis again where it was removed to make way for the brakes.

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Edited by Nickp1
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How did the big, heavy Jags get away with using the half-shafts as the top links when the lightweight Lotus used to wear them out so quickly?

S4 Elan, Elan +2S, Federal-spec, World Championship Edition S2 Esprit #42, S1 Elise, Excel SE

 

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Quick trial fit of a wheel onto the X300 hub using it's own driveshaft and XJS bottom arm. Looks like it kinda works with a rough check showing the camber to be in the right ball park at -2deg. Looks like I'll need some longer handbrake cables making up for it to work right though.

 

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Latest trial fit of body onto chassis. Jag IRS with outboard discs shows -1.5deg rear camber at normal ride height, happy with that. Need to drop the engine/box in again to trial fit the Soarer exhaust manifolds I've just got.

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Yes they are a bit close so I will have to wrap the manifold and probably make an ally heat shield for the rubber. I could move the box section slightly but that would be a PITA as the engine position is so critical.

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Been cobbling a handbrake solution together. Welded the end of the original of the Jag cable into an ALKO trailer connector and used a pair of 770mm trailer handbrake cables. Using the original Lotus cable to pull on a balance bar pulling on 2 brackets bolted to chassis, more pics to follow...... Total spend £40 😀

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Edited by Nickp1
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  • 3 weeks later...

Forgot to mention, I've also made a trailing arm for the rear. The Jag IRS doesn't strictly need them as the bottom arms are very strong and on roller bearings. Many 'hot rods' don't bother with them but I wasn't happy doing without the extra control / support they should offer. The only way to do it right is to get the front mount directly in line with the bottom arm bearings on the diff. I managed to do this, just, and it works really well with no binding or tight spots. It's made with 3mm thick wall 1" box section. It couldn't be made in one piece but I have added strengthening gussets and it feels good and sturdy now 😀

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I’m no expert on suspension, but does the forward pivot of the trailing arm directly line up with the inboard radius arm pivot? I’m thinking if it isn’t, it may describe a different arc, but TBC. Or am I wide of the mark, and it doesn’t move enough to matter?

Margate Exotics.

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Starting to bolt some shiny bits on this weekend 😀

Poly bushed bottom arms are a proper PITA to get in and line up for the bolts!! 😡

Bought a little something (Race Technology Dash2) to modernise the old girls dash 😎

 

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Tested a theory today. One of my bottom arms was a bit knackered. The cup for the ARB bushes was rotted away. New ones aren't cheap at £125 each. On the opposite side of the arm is a plain hole which happens to be the perfect size for Mini stabilizer arm bushes. The bore of these bushes is also a perfect fit for the ARB. So I swapped the arms side to side and it seems to work a treat. The Mini bushes seem to be more substantial, come in various grades and cost peanuts. Will see how they perform and last once on the road.

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