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MrDangerUS

Alunox header installation

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Has anyone installed Alunox header with the engine in situ?

Any tips/observations would be appreciated.

Thank you

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Yes, as you would expect a bit fiddley, but much easier than a cast version.   Mine was on a G car, so yours should be easlier (no external wastegate).   I Removed turbo & wastegate,  Access to mounting nuts is OK.  I could then carefully remove/ replace the entire unit without disturbing the orientation of the collector etc, this makes replacement much easier.   Tip - dont use the cheap supplied manifold gaskets use correct turbo spec laminated stainless.  Why are you removing yours - or are you just fitting?  

Edited by 910Esprit

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2 hours ago, MrDangerUS said:

Has anyone installed Alunox header with the engine in situ?

Any tips/observations would be appreciated.

Thank you

Yes just as @910Esprit said.  Fiddley  but very doable.   You will need to remove a drive shaft or the turbo to allow the free movement required, most removed the turbo because it was easier , plus it was usually a bitch to get off the cast manifold.  I always found the worst part was getting the old cast manifold off, especially when corroded..  As for the gaskets , the original turbo laminated gaskets were specifically fitted to allow for slip during uneven expansion and contraction of the cylinder head and cast manifold.. As the primary headers on the Alunox system are independent with slip joints, the mounting flange face to the head does not move..  This is why the composite compression gasket was supplied..    This does not mean you should not use the original gaskets, just you have a choice.. However when you consider the cost of new original laminated gaskets for no gain you must ask the question why use them ..    The only point i could make about the cheaper compression gasket is after fitting , they should be re-torqued after going through a few heat cycles.  A periodical check when servicing is also advisable , this would also apply to any gasket and manifold.  We have seen far to many 910 manifolds with missing studs and nuts over the years because they don't get service checked.. 

Fitting whilst engine in or out is more dependent on the facilities and abilities of the fitter..  Personally i take the fiddley out of it pull the donkey and do a full service at the same time , belts , pump , F/R seals , clutch etc etc. so much easier on the stand.  When you know what you are doing you can take the engine and box out in the same time it takes to just remove an old cast exhaust manifold in situ.. ..           

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18 minutes ago, CHANGES said:

When you know what you are doing you can take the engine and box out in the same time it takes to just remove an old cast exhaust manifold in situ..

Yeah, but I like a challenge. 😜

Access to the later S car manifold is trickier than the G, and corrosion can render it all but impossible.  If you really don't want to pull the engine, removal of the exhaust cam tower makes things a lot easier.

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Just trying to assess the degree of PITA of this project.  I may have to wait for loong winter or lump-out event.

I've heard you need ET' small pair of hands to be able to accomplish it in situ, which I don't have, LOL.

Edited by MrDangerUS

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I've done the cast iron manifold in an SE many times.  Remove the vacuum pump, the heat shields, the rear boot floor, the turbo.

Use a flat screwdriver to pry the locking tabs out a bit so you can get sockets and wrenches on the nuts.


Travis

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