free hit
counters
Serious trouble V8 - Page 11 - Engine/Ancilliaries - The Lotus Forums Jump to content
MD355

Serious trouble V8

Recommended Posts

New issues... Guess this was coming up..

Today my mechanic got the car up on the lift to start the final part of connecting everything to the engine..

He tried his best to remove the oil radiators but the connector broke off..

He sent me photo.. Apparently the rust had completely eaten that part.. 

Tomorrow I will go check it out to see what options we have..

 

9133A741-14E4-41AB-A847-DC6B1B8BBAAD.jpeg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Upgrade today to remove Google ads and support TLF.

A very common problem with the dissimilar metals of the oil cooler and the hose union. It is caused by galling rather than rust eating the parts. The union can be saved by dissolving what is left of the aluminium thread using a sodium hydroxide solution (read up on the hazards before trying this!) but the oil cooler is usually not worth the effort of trying to salvage it.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
13 hours ago, MD355 said:

New issues... Guess this was coming up..

Today my mechanic got the car up on the lift to start the final part of connecting everything to the engine..

He tried his best to remove the oil radiators but the connector broke off..

He sent me photo.. Apparently the rust had completely eaten that part.. 

Tomorrow I will go check it out to see what options we have..

 

9133A741-14E4-41AB-A847-DC6B1B8BBAAD.jpeg

Cut the pipe and use a new clamp on end. A simple 5 minute job that costs very little


Only here once

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
14 hours ago, sailorbob said:

A very common problem with the dissimilar metals of the oil cooler and the hose union. It is caused by galling rather than rust eating the parts. The union can be saved by dissolving what is left of the aluminium thread using a sodium hydroxide solution (read up on the hazards before trying this!) but the oil cooler is usually not worth the effort of trying to salvage it.

Hi can you please explain to me how we can remove the broken part from the pipe ? What is sodium hydroxide solution and how is this process done ? My mechanic is very disappointed because he says he needs to remove the bottom covers of the car go get access to the oil pipes to replace them.. The screws that hold the bottom part are rusted.. so we are [email protected] as well !! Thanks

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Barrykearley said:

Cut the pipe and use a new clamp on end. A simple 5 minute job that costs very little

My mechanic said that it is not going to work because the clamp is not going to hold tight and it is going to leak..

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you search the forum for 'caustic soda' there are several threads where people have used it to dissolve the aluminium. I cannot recall if anyone gave the dilution ratio and/or the temperature they used so that will probably have to be found by trial and error.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

As above, I used about 25% caustic to water to make a thick solution, and dangled the pipe end in the container. The solution eats the alloy, but it might need refreshing every so often.

Wear a mask, gloves and goggles, it will give you a chemical burn if you get it in your skin or in your eyes.

  • Like 1

Margate Exotics.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It seems everyone on this board has experienced this issue at some point... Great to hear your feedback !! I will let you know how it turns out

Some photos from my visit today

BC10F928-BD67-45D6-A6BB-57B960493592.jpeg

9E9B8FEB-78C1-4CB3-81E3-9BACF16F1749.jpeg

F7095465-9B88-47A0-805D-55E14D8B3EE7.jpeg

5B68F713-A886-4E21-994F-FA14BFC99846.jpeg

2EE4E4C3-ABF4-43CE-A0F5-68DCBF28D57D.jpeg

6E27F43E-F853-4B3A-9058-BCE8B08A41CC.jpeg

D2A43117-A8F7-4DD5-9804-D36F8D9EA11E.jpeg

FC321EE6-B387-472F-9C70-4FC45DDBE80D.jpeg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
6 hours ago, MD355 said:

My mechanic said that it is not going to work because the clamp is not going to hold tight and it is going to leak..

Utter bollox - it’s not leaking on mine 👍 and it’s well documented on other threads and plenty of other folks have done the same

6 hours ago, sailorbob said:

If you search the forum for 'caustic soda' there are several threads where people have used it to dissolve the aluminium. I cannot recall if anyone gave the dilution ratio and/or the temperature they used so that will probably have to be found by trial and error.

Outside - loads (Calibrated loads!!) of caustic in a pot - stand well back with protective gear and lump in boiling water - 15mins later it’ll be sorted.

be very careful - must be ventilated and outside - and caustic reacts violently with hot water

  • Like 1

Only here once

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Barrykearley said:

Utter bollox - it’s not leaking on mine 👍 and it’s well documented on other threads and plenty of other folks have done the same

 

My mechanic explained to me that inside the oil line there are some wires / wire mesh (if I understood correctly) and this is not going to work with the clamp...

The only way to make it work is to remove the oil line and take it to a special shop that has a special tool...

I asked him if he could bring over the special tool to make it on the spot... He said not possible...

(Any rock throwing please aim at towards my mechanic... I am just the middle-man / messenger !!) LOL

P.S. I was just on the phone with my mechanic and told him that my friend Barry on Lotus Forums said that it worked !! His response was that if we do it, and let's say that in the shop at 3 bar pressure it works, and we take the car out for a spin and we get 4 bar pressure and all of a sudden the oil connection leaks 7 liters of oil, all the oil goes to the wheels and the cars behind us, we crash, and even if we don't crash, the engine seizes due to oil starvation. His question was "do you accept responsibility ?" 

He said there is another technique which makes it safe connection which he will explain to me tomorrow..

Edited by MD355
  • Haha 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You use a fitting like this and quality jubilee clamps

its under very little pressure - it’s most certainly not thousands of psi like in a digger hydraulic hose - it’s more like 30psi at most. And since the size of the hose is far bigger than the oil galleries the pressure reduces 06A34131-89BE-44BD-B6F0-9169FEBAF257.jpeg.ef52f4a8734913bd578fe9c0d77aaef9.jpeg

  • Like 1

Only here once

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I just sent him you pic!! He likes it !! He will get back to me tomorrow with an questions.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
6 minutes ago, Barrykearley said:

You use a fitting like this and quality jubilee clamps

its under very little pressure - it’s most certainly not thousands of psi like in a digger hydraulic hose - it’s more like 30psi at most. And since the size of the hose is far bigger than the oil galleries the pressure reduces 06A34131-89BE-44BD-B6F0-9169FEBAF257.jpeg.ef52f4a8734913bd578fe9c0d77aaef9.jpeg

Wee word of caution here, oil pressures may hover in the realm of 30psi when all is warm but may possibly overshoot by a good measure upon start-up in very cold weather. Less of an issue with synthetics typically used these days though I know of an instance in which a remote, cast aluminum filter was fractured by pressure spike with 20W-50 racing oil some years ago.

Cheers 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
9 minutes ago, drdoom said:

Wee word of caution here, oil pressures may hover in the realm of 30psi when all is warm but may possibly overshoot by a good measure upon start-up in very cold weather. Less of an issue with synthetics typically used these days though I know of an instance in which a remote, cast aluminum filter was fractured by pressure spike with 20W-50 racing oil some years ago.

Cheers 

My mechanic said there is a special connector for the oil line that is called *spelling* Ergal... check out the photo.. he said he will bring a guy over tomorrow to see it

7284A1B3-2AAE-411A-9ED3-2818DD7EAF60.jpeg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hoses with push on fittings are typically rated at 200 psi and some manufacturers give higher ratings. I use JIC push fit unions with double wire hose clamps on my oil cooler hoses and do not worry about it. Also, bear in mind that most oil coolers are only rated at 150 psi so if there is a pressure spike due to the oil pump relief valve sticking then the failure is like to occur there first.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Those are swaged on ends - there’s nothing wrong with barbed and clamped fittings in the application you are looking at. You will blow an oil cooler far sooner than blow a properly fitted hose 


Only here once

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

723560e88c1f421ab4d49875554cae91.jpegr

My solution. 

I have no lift access and the front end was not coming off this time around. 

used push lock 10an fittings with added screw clamps because at 70psi cold pressure the hoses blew off!! 

I shortened that hose btw. Looks better now. It catches air from a home made duct

Edited by v8GTmac1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, MD355 said:

P.S. I was just on the phone with my mechanic and told him that my friend Barry on Lotus Forums said that it worked !! His response was that if we do it, and let's say that in the shop at 3 bar pressure it works, and we take the car out for a spin and we get 4 bar pressure and all of a sudden the oil connection leaks 7 liters of oil, all the oil goes to the wheels and the cars behind us, we crash, and even if we don't crash, the engine seizes due to oil starvation. His question was "do you accept responsibility ?" 

He said there is another technique which makes it safe connection which he will explain to me tomorrow..

Frankly reading about the previous posts about this particular “mechanic” I’d say his professional judgements are questionable at best. This is a simple oil line - under very little pressure due to the flow rates and the diameter of that pipe. If he’s struggling with this concept then maybe he should consider a training course

  • Haha 1

Only here once

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I think in this thread my mechanic is the most misunderstood person... I bet if you got to know him in person you would like him !! He is a very good mechanic, and he always gets the work done no matter how difficult it may be... True, he sometimes insists on some things, but he will always accept my suggestions and help which come from this board and I am thankful for that...😉

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

While the push fit might be perfectly fit for purpose, if there is another way that gives you more peace of mind I wouldn't argue against it.

BTW your car looks to be in very good condition from the photos, very clean underneath. I am more than a little bit green with envy. 🙂

cheers

-Chris

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Today’s update :

First the bad news !! The pipe connector was completed damaged. The extent of the damage made it not possible to save.

And the good news !! The new connector was made and it looks great !!

149C0559-DEF7-43B0-A95E-6304A41D854C.jpeg

2713C264-19AE-45D1-846D-8F57320D2CE5.jpeg

And the new connector (we are waiting for the adapter)

ABD7E2AE-6ED0-4612-9E50-C81037B38A2B.jpeg

ACCA64EB-2EB0-445B-9F0B-CD8264A86765.jpeg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My understanding is that my mechanic will find male-male adapter

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Final photos before the moment we have all been waiting for the last 5 months..

in the first photo notice the weird sponge above the front radiator... Looks like a weird solution for noise reduction...

Check out how nice and clean the car looks... Of course decat (silenced) with test pipes.. Best setup in my opinion

D164750B-C7A1-4E6C-9AC2-7EA273AFDE87.png

49A275A2-49B5-41EC-8E4A-EDECD8EFF0BE.png

1AD6AE74-EEDD-4B4C-8ED2-8760ECDF751D.png

EB6FD64D-99CC-4B47-BB31-934B0313A5DC.png

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...