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Going through all my timing again. I am set perfectly at 10deg BTDC. It seems at the moment i may have distributor in wrong position. Can anyone tell me which direction rotor arm rotates looking from rear of car. Dont want to move engine. Thanks 

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Thanks Steve. Set timing but now worse. There is something fundamentally wrong. Im wondering if distributor sprocket is mis timed on timing belt. I cant believe that though as cambelt was fitted with engine out of car. Will be checking though. Lost it for today now. Really am a bit lost though. 

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17 minutes ago, PhilW said:

Thanks Steve. Set timing but now worse. There is something fundamentally wrong. Im wondering if distributor sprocket is mis timed on timing belt. I cant believe that though as cambelt was fitted with engine out of car. Will be checking though. Lost it for today now. Really am a bit lost though. 

There are (have been) discussion about the inaccuracies of the timing marks on the flywheel and this might be your issue, although I don't know how common an occurence this is

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I have lined up the spots on the cam sprockets and TDC onthe fly wheel is spot on. As per Service notes i set initial at10 degBTDC although Steve told me 12 BTDC in another post. Previously at 12 deg engine ran but badly. Got a lot of popping on carbs.  No1 HT lead was at around 11 oclock along with rotor arm. Today when i went through it all again and removed dis cap rotor arm was at 5 oclock. Just couldn’t understand it. Lined up dizzy as per the book. Car wont run. Got flame from one carb and good back fire. To be honest im a bit lost. I may have another set of eyes coming to look on Monday so hopefully he will see my stupid mistake!

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5 minutes ago, PhilW said:

I have lined up the spots on the cam sprockets and TDC onthe fly wheel is spot on. As per Service notes i set initial at10 degBTDC although Steve told me 12 BTDC in another post. Previously at 12 deg engine ran but badly. Got a lot of popping on carbs.  No1 HT lead was at around 11 oclock along with rotor arm. Today when i went through it all again and removed dis cap rotor arm was at 5 oclock. Just couldn’t understand it. Lined up dizzy as per the book. Car wont run. Got flame from one carb and good back fire. To be honest im a bit lost. I may have another set of eyes coming to look on Monday so hopefully he will see my stupid mistake!

11 o' clock & 5 o' clock on the distributor rotor arm........... that's because it needs 2 crankshaft rotation for each distributor rotation. You only set the static timing when the piston of cylinder no. 1 is on its compression stroke and at TDC.

 

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Am i being thicker than thick?

if the cam sprockets and TDC on the flywheel align then where would you expect no 1 position to be on the rotor arm? Around 11oclock? If so then is it fair to say dizzy sprocket 180 deg out? If i turn dizzy180 then that wouldnt be right if you consider the cap clips and wire position if i consider position on other cars i have looked at. 

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5 minutes ago, PhilW said:

Am i being thicker than thick?

if the cam sprockets and TDC on the flywheel align then where would you expect no 1 position to be on the rotor arm? Around 11oclock? If so then is it fair to say dizzy sprocket 180 deg out? If i turn dizzy180 then that wouldnt be right if you consider the cap clips and wire position if i consider position on other cars i have looked at. 

Irrespective of whatever o'clock it is, the rotor arm should point to the HT cable for plug no. 1 when the crankshaft pulley is at TDC and piston no. 1 is on compression. Then working anti-clockwise the cables should follow the sequence for plugs 3-4-2.

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Yes thats what ive got as far as i can see. Something else unless im missing something really obvious. I dont know. Most frustrating 

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13 hours ago, PhilW said:

I have lined up the spots on the cam sprockets and TDC onthe fly wheel is spot on. As per Service notes i set initial at10 degBTDC although Steve told me 12 BTDC in another post. Previously at 12 deg engine ran but badly. Got a lot of popping on carbs.  No1 HT lead was at around 11 oclock along with rotor arm. Today when i went through it all again and removed dis cap rotor arm was at 5 oclock. Just couldn’t understand it. Lined up dizzy as per the book. Car wont run. Got flame from one carb and good back fire. To be honest im a bit lost. I may have another set of eyes coming to look on Monday so hopefully he will see my stupid mistake!

I think it's the crankshaft pulley & flywheel marking inconsistency.

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The service notes go on about fuel pressure and am wondering if there is an issue there. Certainly plenty of fuel getting to carbs though and float chamber full. If the regulator was a problem what issues would that cause?

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15 hours ago, PhilW said:

As per Service notes i set initial at10 degBTDC although Steve told me 12 BTDC in another post

Hi Phil - just to confirm 12 degrees is 'book' setting when actually running at idle and there is also a +/- 2 degrees tolerance.  Intial 10 degrees static will be a 'safe' setting to  ensure you do not exceed 12 degrees until you get a timing light on it.

Did you check if the flywheel and engine pulley TDC marks are consistent?

I would recommend leaving the fuel regulator until you are are certain the ignition timing is correct.   (NB as long as you are getting some fuel flow at idle , I don't think its your current issue).   

Edited by 910Esprit

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Thanks steve. Will readjust to 12 deg and see where i get to. Have to admit my enthusiasm is waining though!

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Not suprised you are getting hacked off....   Unfortunately. I dont think an adjustment of 2 degrees is your issue.  

Here's what I would do:

  • Confirm flywheel and front pulley markings are consistent, to hopefully rule out incorrect markings
  • Double check alll timing dots line up correctly at tdc.  (remembering this only occurs once for every 2 crank rotations)
  • Check that dizzy drive is pushed fully home with drive dog located
  • Check that plug lead no1 is adjacent to the rotor arm  (doesnt matter where rotor is pointing as long as the leads correspond and room to adjust ) 
  • Ensure that your plug leads are 1342 in an anti clockwise rotation
  • Now rotate engine to 10/12 degrees BTDC and adjust lobe of magnetic rotor to be adjacent to pickup (double check you are at BTDC not ATDC)
  • Start car!
  • Check idle timing with timing light.   If running OK, proceed to set timing dynamically (as per book).

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Thanks Steve.  Car running. Everything is as per your points. Small spitting from carbs but only small. Sounds slightly tractory but plenum chamber off and engine surround pieces and boot out so maybe that affects what it sounds like slightly. Possibly got a minor exhaust leak but haven’t checked yet. Hopefully will get timing done tomorrow with a light and see where we get to.  Thanks so much for all help everyone so far. 

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Phil - Spitting back (sort of like the car 'coughing')  is usually a week running condition.  Not sure what your 'datum' is on the mixture screws, but possible try another 1/2 turn anti-clockwise on each 

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11 minutes ago, 910Esprit said:

Phil - Spitting back (sort of like the car 'coughing')  is usually a week running condition.  Not sure what your 'datum' is on the mixture screws, but possible try another 1/2 turn anti-clockwise on each 

910's points cover your issues quite well, Phil. Certainly there's no way 2 degrees off in timing would account for the behavior.

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Ok Steve will try. Drdoom. Yes seems a very small amount but what ever ive done this morning its running much better than yesterday. Back on it tomorrow evening. Will keep you goes busy with questions but hopefully shouts of joy👍

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