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Refitting Elite S2.2 engine and gearbox - Engine & Ancilliaries/Gearbox - The Lotus Forums Jump to content
martynw

Refitting Elite S2.2 engine and gearbox

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I've had the engine and gearbox out of my Elite, initially to replace a badly cracked manifold and leaking cam towers, but it has ended up with a head overhaul/new valves etc as well.

That's all gone fine - but I failed to get it back in today on the first go.  I've got a good long reach lift and load leveller so was able to get it up and into place pretty straightforwardly, but aligining the splines on the gearbox/propshaft defeated me.

It seems the main obstacle is the steering rack - specifically the section that comes up towards the steering column.  This fouls on the "wings" of the sump that are used as engine mounts.  If I was just fitting the engine in and didn't need to worry about the drive shaft, I'd go back beyond this, drop the mounts down and ease the whole thing forward again.  However, when trying to locate the splines you need to be forward first - which leaves quite an angle between the gearbox and the prop shaft, which despite several goes I couldn't seem to overcome. I even managed to locate the splines a couple of times but then the top of the gearbox was tight against the top of the tunnel, but I couldn't lower it because of the steering rack.

I might have been tempted to remove or loosen and move forward the steering rack, but by then I'd had enough so will be returning to it tomorrow.  If anyone has any magic tips they would be much appreciated.

Couple of pictures below from when it all seemed to be going well...

 

IMG_20190625_142123.jpg

IMG_20190625_143532.jpg

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I'm tempted to fit my engine/ gearbox onto the chassis before I refit the body to avoid this trouble, although as it doesn't go straight on (needs a twist of the body and no exhaust rocker cover) i might be swapping a tricky job for an even trickier one.

The third option is to fit the gearbox and bell housing,  then jack that lot up and then slide the engine onto the gearbox input shaft. I don't know if power steering makes that impossible?

 

EspritS2 and pbharcourt both separated the block and box in the car - we discussed it back in January Screenshot_20190625-220731_Firefox.thumb.jpg.4156ebf8ac647acd1ebb6699f02d9051.jpg

 

If it comes out like that then surely it could go in? of course clutch alignment might be even harder than propshaft insertion. 🙁

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I hesitate to suggest this but is it easier with the prop shaft out of the way? Drop the diff and remove the prop and then refit one the gearbox is in place.

You may only need to lower the diff rather than remove everything but just an idea?

Good luck


Is the price for that bit in Yen or £?

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Or can you undo the prop at the diff end and feed it towards the engine so it can be attached to the gearbox before the engine is fully back?

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As Tom said. I had same issue. Remove the 4 bolts from the prop to the diff, pull the prop forwards in the tunnel, lower engine, insert prop. Job done, but you will have to watch the diff end of the prop doesn't catch on the chassis when pushing the whole thing back. It shouldn't foul on the steering rack, just adjust the angle as you lower the engine.

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Fresh eyes on it this morning - can see hoe the prop shaft/diff split would work but with the car all propped up to take the engine it is inaccessible and a hell of a hassle to rearrange all that, especially as I am working alone today 

Steering rack is fairly recently fitted so two ball joints, four nuts on the u-bolts and the universal joint on the column ought to be easily removable, and that seems quicker and easier, especially as that end of the car is already raised. Don't think I'll need to remove it completely - just slide it along the chassis up to the radiator to make more space.

Not 100% sure I'll go for the refit today - an extra pair of hands/eyes is very useful so looks like one of the kids is going to get pressganged into it again. But I will get everything ready at least.

Thanks again for ideas - will let you know how this goes, and if it doesn't will try them next....

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Done it. Yes I know I said I'd leave it until I had a helper but it's hard ignoring it and doing something else in the workshop while it sits there looking at you.

The extra 2 inches space beside the steering rack did help get a better alignment as I slotted the engine in and it went home fairly nicely. I guess it is quite possible that it would have done anyway - there are so many variables when craning an engine in.

Anyway it is now sitting happily on its mounts and I am going to have a celebratory coffee.

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When I did mine the front wheels where off the ground and a friend was underneath holding the prop shaft and the engine needed a damn good waggle and brute force... But well done for getting it in by yourself

Edited by mikeeech

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So glad it's back hom, I did mine by having the wheels off, the car supported at The fronton a trolley jack with axlestands positioned for safety, I put the engine on a chain block with a sling round the inlet manifold (thanks Mike) and was able to guide the shaft onto the gearbox, it came out that way so should go back.

when the rocker boxes leak or at least the exhaust one, try putting the engine on the trolleyjack and having removed the engine mount, shift it to drivers side, then you can fit the cover without having to roll it round and so don't disturb the sealant.

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You used sealant on cam covers ?   Normally kept away from imo as it can end up potentially blocking the oil pump strainer  ?


A

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I use sealant on cam covers. The alternative is more leaks than a welsh rugby coach.

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Back to topic - I will be putting my engine and gearbox in shortly. My question is "Is it done with the gearbox support in place or does this have to be out of the way?"

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My gearbox support was off, and as others have said, the front end was up on stands. It is possible you could get it in past the support, but my experience was that if it only takes a few bolts to get something out of the way and give you a bit more room to wiggle it in, it's worth doing.

The engine goes in at quite a steep angle with the gearbox low, then you level it up and lower it down in small steps. My suspicion is the gearbox follows an arc into the transmission tunnel as this happens, which is why I'd take the support off.

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None of this "steep angle" nonsense,  just stick it straight on in there - proper job.

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Straight down, push it on to the gearbox....job done!

Whats the point in taking the gearbox out unless your overhauling it?

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Have you got Power steering paul? I'd love to fit my engine like that!

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No I changed to manual steering some time ago, but all you need to do is undo the rack clamps and push it forward if it is in the way.

Engine has to be slightly upright (as shown in the picture), to go in and then rotated around when its engaged on the gearbox spigot.

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