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Giniw

Sprint FHC buying guide or advices?

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Hello Everyone,

Is there a buying guide for the Sprint FHC?

Do you see something strange in that engine bay and underneath?

I think the HT leads should go down in the middle of the intake plenum pipes and the green paint of the engine is a bit weird, and a few bushings need to be changed underneath (anti-roll bar for instance) but apart from this that doesn't look too bad, does it?

Thanks in advance!

engine bay 1.jpg

 

 

 

engine bay 2.jpg

underneath_front2.jpg

underneath_front.jpg

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(I already had a look at lotuselansprint.com, quite useful on there but not as much photos as I would have hopped!)

 

Do you guys confirm they only made out of the factory with a generator and never actually used an alternator? I read a thread about that on lotuselan.net but it's strange since the workshop manual has a dedicated section about that.

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@jonwat > Does this mean you think it's all right or do you just like the photos? :D

Apparently it would be the original chassis. Have they ever been galvanized, maybe on the late cars?

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1 hour ago, Giniw said:

@jonwat > Does this mean you think it's all right or do you just like the photos? :D

Apparently it would be the original chassis. Have they ever been galvanized, maybe on the late cars?

Don't think any Elan left the factory with galvanized chassis, but a replacement would have been. The cylinder head will have a raised boss with a Z stamped on it next to cylinder number 1 spark plug if it's a genuine big valve head. My '74 Europa had an alternator but I don't know about Elans. The carbs should be bolted on with plain nuts & Thackery washers, not nylocks & they look overtightened with no gap for the O rings. As you say the green painted cylinder head looks odd, otherwise from what I can see in the pics all looks well. Good luck 😀

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Cheers,

John W

http://jonwatkins.co.uk

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Z's there baby, Z's there ...© (:D:getmecoat:)

Seriously, yes the stamped Z seems to be there indeed, thanks a lot!

The engine has been rebuild not so long ago apparently so it probably explains the nylocks nuts.

Apparently there is a missing connexion between the headlamps actuator and chassis vacuum reservoir, which might indicate an electric conversion and/or a leaking/rusty chassis (I also opened a similar topic on http://www.lotuselan.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=44853)

@Bibs > I hotlinked the photos I already uploaded here, I hope you don't mind too much!

z.jpg

 

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There is a video where the engine is shaking quite a bit at idle, I suspect there is something odd about that. On the other hand there are photos where the engine is still cold (coolant about 35°C+) and the rpm needle is only on the first graduation (about 500 rpm ?!) so that might explain why the engine shakes like that. But why it's revving so low is still strange.

There are other photos when the engine is warm where the needle is at 950+ rpm (almost 1000 rpm on the gauge), but I don't know if the engine is still shaking at that stage, although the gear lever is shaking a bit. Strangely, the engine noise is not bad even when the engine is shaking.

 

rpm.jpg

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Also, does the oil pressure look OK? I have found a reference pressure in the WM but unless I am wrong they don't say the corresponding RPM so it is not that useful?!

 

Warm oil pressure at tickover (~1000- RPM and ~85°C) :

warm oil pressure.jpg

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15 hours ago, Giniw said:

Also, does the oil pressure look OK? I have found a reference pressure in the WM but unless I am wrong they don't say the corresponding RPM so it is not that useful?!

According to Miles Wilkins, normal oil pressure (hot) is 35-40 psi. :thumbup:

Edited by jonwat
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Cheers,

John W

http://jonwatkins.co.uk

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Well yes, but doesn't he quote the associated RPM either? Because obviously the tickover RPM must be lower than that?
So I understand it's the minimum pressure when driving, when its limited by the pressure regulator?

oil pressure.jpg

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2 hours ago, jonwat said:

I'd normally set tickover just below 100RPM. :thumbup:

Good grief, that's low!

 

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Margate Exotics.

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Thanks, like on the second dash photo then!

I don't know why it's so low when the engine is cold, probably a starter issue ...

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On 19/07/2019 at 14:35, Giniw said:

I don't know why it's so low when the engine is cold, probably a starter issue ...

Was the choke pulled out, there's no throttle jack. Not that Dellortos have a choke, just a starting device to enrich the mixture. :thumbup:

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Cheers,

John W

http://jonwatkins.co.uk

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Oil pressure typically at 3000 rpm is 35 to 40 with a standard pump.

Yes a few cars had alternators fitted as standard.

If its got a hot set of cams maybe an idle of 1000 rpm is better.

Most of the questions you ask were answered on LotusElan.net

cheers

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On 20/07/2019 at 16:02, jonwat said:

Was the choke pulled out, there's no throttle jack. Not that Dellortos have a choke, just a starting device to enrich the mixture. :thumbup:

So once it starts it doesn't run very well until it's warm? (I am more or less familiar with the SU carbs but I have never seen a Dellorto ^^')

Or more probably, the enrichment lever is controlled manually and so you just reset it progressively as it gets warmer?

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