free hit
counters
Owen's Lotus Esprit GT3 Restoration - Page 2 - Esprit 'Project & Restoration' Room - The Lotus Forums Jump to content


Owen's Lotus Esprit GT3 Restoration


Recommended Posts


Upgrade today to remove Google ads and support TLF.
  • Replies 50
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Posts

It's taken a year to build the workshop to do the work in, but so it begins the start of my Esprit GT3 restoration. In true Lotus fashion, the second bolt undone sheared off, but it hasn't moved for 2

The job I did today was quite a small one, but needed to be done. As the fuel flap on a GT3 on the drivers side is blank, Lotus glue them shut with bonding agent. The flap needed removing for when the

A little work on the engine today, started to strip the engine down ready to remove. Most of the work was removing the loom from engine, but to get the loom completely away from the engine, some engin

Posted Images

I've continued with stripping the pistons out of the engine. All the bores and pistons are of the same condition as piston one, so really pleased the engine is good.

The next stage is to remove the crank from the engine block, so the lower section of the engine needs removing. This shouldn't be too bad a job, but the rear crankshaft oil seal housing bolts are corroded in.

I've applied loads of penetrating fluid, but they are not moving. Also being hex head bolts, it doesn't take long for them to ring round and then you are stuck. I am thinking of welding a bolt to the hex head dome bolts. The heat might help as well, but it's mostly to get a better purchase on the bolts to remove them. I will need to replace them all.

48876388147_46e98e0b5d_b.jpg

48876387622_30a4e1c1b9_b.jpg

48875654823_45d916c5b4_b.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites
On 21/10/2019 at 10:47, Chillidoggy said:

Dunno what your plans are, but I spoke to Gary Kemp a while ago, he told me he can get the original Nikasil liners.

Looking at the condition of the liners, they are very good. The whole bottom end of the engine is very good, so I will just replace shell and rings. All of the problems are in the head with the valves.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Owen, I've rounded my fair share of those hex bolts.  On every occasion (except one that required grinding the head then turning out with locking grips) I've succeeded by tapping in a larger torx bit.

  • Like 1

British Fart to Florida, Nude to New York, Dunce to Denmark, Numpty to Newfoundland.  And Shitfaced Silly Sod to Sweden.

Link to post
Share on other sites
15 hours ago, OwenGT3 said:

Looking at the condition of the liners, they are very good. The whole bottom end of the engine is very good, so I will just replace shell and rings. All of the problems are in the head with the valves.

Assuming they're the originals liners, there is some cross-hatching visible, but they do look worn and scuffed in places to me. As I understand it, Nikasil should not be honed like cast iron liners. @CHANGES?

I'm interested in this rebuild, as I'm currently mulling whether to take my engine out and refresh it. After all, it hasn't been out for a couple of years, and I'm getting bored.

Margate Exotics.

Link to post
Share on other sites
23 minutes ago, Chillidoggy said:

Assuming they're the originals liners, there is some cross-hatching visible, but they do look worn and scuffed in places to me. As I understand it, Nikasil should not be honed like cast iron liners. @CHANGES?

I'm interested in this rebuild, as I'm currently mulling whether to take my engine out and refresh it. After all, it hasn't been out for a couple of years, and I'm getting bored.

This is my understanding, that they shouldn't be honed @andydclements. There is the odd mark, but I would expect some on an engine that's done 97k. If there were no honing marks then possibly they would need replacing, but from first look I think they still have a good amount of life in them. I am going to measure them to see how much they have worn, but this engine I have never seen it burn/smoke or use excessive oil consumption. Also with a restoration like this, where do you stop? I'm already way over budget so if something can be saved and used a bit longer, then I will keep it.

It's the same with the fuel tanks, they are both out now. One all the powder-coating has flaked off, the other just one small little patch. The tanks are really good condition. So do I add nearly another £1k to the restoration and buy alloy or stainless replacements or just restore the originals? I'm more than likely not going to be the next person who will have to remove them, having sold the car on by then, but if they last another 22 years, then it won't be all bad.

Link to post
Share on other sites
29 minutes ago, OwenGT3 said:

It's the same with the fuel tanks, they are both out now. One all the powder-coating has flaked off, the other just one small little patch. The tanks are really good condition. So do I add nearly another £1k to the restoration and buy alloy or stainless replacements or just restore the originals?

A good wire brushing & a couple of coats of something like POR15  is what I'd go for. :thumbup:

  • Like 1

Cheers,

John W

http://jonwatkins.co.uk

Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, OwenGT3 said:

This is my understanding, that they shouldn't be honed @andydclements. There is the odd mark, but I would expect some on an engine that's done 97k. If there were no honing marks then possibly they would need replacing, but from first look I think they still have a good amount of life in them. I am going to measure them to see how much they have worn, but this engine I have never seen it burn/smoke or use excessive oil consumption. Also with a restoration like this, where do you stop? I'm already way over budget so if something can be saved and used a bit longer, then I will keep it.

It's the same with the fuel tanks, they are both out now. One all the powder-coating has flaked off, the other just one small little patch. The tanks are really good condition. So do I add nearly another £1k to the restoration and buy alloy or stainless replacements or just restore the originals? I'm more than likely not going to be the next person who will have to remove them, having sold the car on by then, but if they last another 22 years, then it won't be all bad.

Where do you stop? I ended up spending a bloody fortune, and I still haven’t stopped!

If your tanks are good, then reuse them. I say this because the chances are the car will live a much better life in your hands post refurb. Unless you use it as a daily driver, it probably won’t see any rain, unless you get caught out.

What I do know is if you don’t have the correct finish on the cylinder liners, then the rings will struggle to bed in, that’s where I’m coming from. That’s the case with cast iron liners. I understand that Nikasil is a coating, and once it’s worn through, then the rings will be running on aluminium, but I freely admit I don’t know enough about them, having never used them before. Hence me asking others more knowledgeable than me. I wonder why Lotus used them, weight saving, perhaps? Or durability? Or both?

Margate Exotics.

Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, jonwat said:

A good wire brushing & a couple of coats of something like POR15  is what I'd go for. :thumbup:

I'm thinking of some light shot blasting to remove rust, then pressure test them. A good coat of red oxide paint and then a nice enamel top coat paint, two coats. Foam replaced with proper non-porous type.

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Gold FFM

Be very very careful blast cleaning them tanks - media will go everywhere and be very difficult to get out - wrong media will blow holes in the thin plate work.

find a place who will acid dip them for you

  • Like 1

Only here once

Link to post
Share on other sites
On 23/10/2019 at 17:43, Barrykearley said:

Be very very careful blast cleaning them tanks - media will go everywhere and be very difficult to get out - wrong media will blow holes in the thin plate work.

find a place who will acid dip them for you

Is a better option.

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Gold FFM

Yes acid dip is. It will strip the paint and the rust. It does need to be done properly - most powder coating places will have an acid bath hiding out the back

  • Like 1

Only here once

Link to post
Share on other sites

Today (12.10.1) was spent stripping the engine some more. I removed the turbo from the exhaust manifold, this required the nuts being removed with a grinder, but I did manage to save the studs. I also stripped the inlet manifold down to it's component parts.

As well as the engine parts, I did remove the drivers side fuel tank. I can see now why this job is so bad with the engine in, as even with easy access the tank was still tight getting it out. Once the top board, seat belt, cross-over fuel pipe and earth strap was removed, the man issue was the seat belt mount. The tank needed to be forced past this, but once past the tank came out OK.

The fuel tanks are actually in very good condition, even with all the powder coating removed, with just surface rust on the tank. I think with a good soft shot blast and paint the tanks will come up well. The passengers tank doesn't look as bad as the driver side for powder coat removal.

48896669072_b875061e1e_b.jpg

48896481131_2efc144702_b.jpg

48895942983_a46c9094e7_b.jpg

48895943423_564dc5236d_b.jpg

48930224333_dcd6efc20c_b.jpg

48930766736_8b39f337e5_b.jpg

48930226018_2ef592644e_b.jpg

48930225433_5e48ec6620_b.jpg

48895941538_367249b0ff_b.jpg

48895941848_17aabf3cda_b.jpg

Edited by OwenGT3
  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...
6 minutes ago, jonwat said:

Neat idea 😀

It is a good idea, I have heard others have considered this as an option. I don't know whether to buy the actual release if you can still get it, but if not a good set of strong magnets will do. Can't be worse than Lotus sikaflex method, I know it's good stuff for bonding, but not what I would expect on a £50k car.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I finally removed all the valves from the head today (17.10.19). This wasn't too bad a job as I had a valve removing tool and they came apart really easily. All the guides are worn, with one inlet valve being very sloppy on number one, but the valves don't look too bad a condition generally.

Some ports you can see blow by on the inlet valves, which obviously would be contributing to low compression. Seats on the exhaust valves were very thin and looked like they were not creating a good seal. I think once all the faces have been machined, new guides and the valves lapped in, the head will be A1 again.

Another job I did was to dismantle the pistons and con rods. Again the pistons are in very good condition as are the rings for the mileage of the car. The pistons came apart easily and are now ready to be cleaned up.

49017770708_8286be4fe7_b.jpg

49018493797_cab3d73151_b.jpg

49017771308_5474450fd4_b.jpg

49018495032_c834459289_b.jpg

49017770203_e44ec0824c_b.jpg

Edited by OwenGT3
  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...

I've moved operations back to the front of the car and have now started to strip the front suspension (08.11.19). I started on the N/S suspension and generally it came apart reasonably easily. Most large bolts needed breaking with a strong-bar, but then removed with a ratchet spanner OK.

The only problematic bolts were the suspension arms, upper and lower arms. The front lower arm bolt has seized in the bush, so the head of the bolt may need to be cut off to drive the bolt out, or using an angle grinder cut down the sides of the arm in the housing to remove the bolt.

The shock-absorber and spring assembly came apart OK and was no problem removing from the car. It will be nice when it all goes back together, being all nice and cleaned up and painted.

49123247348_bf4acd2cdd_b.jpg

49058990591_533851cf35_b.jpg

49059211152_39dd5a05bc_b.jpg

49123246723_37d60eb312_b.jpg

49123929642_bf3f4f0f77_b.jpg

49123930092_6ec1e7e927_b.jpg

49123248178_5d08de0481_b.jpg

 

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 4 months later...
On 23/10/2019 at 22:27, CHANGES said:

There are companies that will re-coat the liners , they do it for motor bike engines.  But when they remove the old coating they can not remove the dent without going oversize.  This would then require custom pistons etc etc .  

I have read somewhere that the thickness of the new coating could compensate so the liner would be the original diameter again?

Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, Giniw said:

I have read somewhere that the thickness of the new coating could compensate so the liner would be the original diameter again?

A lot depend on the liners deformity / dent and how much the alloy will need machining to remove it.  The typical thickness is of Nikasil between 100/200 microns ,  You need to measure what was there before , see how much thicker you can actually make the plating,  then allow for the honing .   If the dent is less than this then you are in the pound seats so to speak .. however you usually find they are out of spec..      If you are desperate to stay will Nikasil liners , you can always go out by 0.020'' have them all re-plated / honed to that,  and purchase oversize pistons..   

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




×
×
  • Create New...