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Cylinder liner removal

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I have to remove and reseal one of my cylinder liners as it has been leaking coolant into the sump.

Does anybody have a tool I might borrow or a trick on how to pull the liner safely as it is very stuck.



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12 hours ago, tom kilner said:

Please photograph the alignment method on refitting for my reference!



Two parallels and a digital depth gauge is easiest:  Zero the gauge on the liner and then slide over to block and measure depth to surface.  You can measure both sides to see if the liner is canted over at all.


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Just a quick update.

I cleaned the block up the other day and discovered the reason for my water in oil problem, there were two corrosion holes below the cylinder liner seals, one in No1 cylinder and another one in No4 cylinder.

This was probably due to it sitting outside unused for 20 plus years before I bought it.

This caused me a lot of head scratching about what to do, I have a spare 907 block but with no sump, so do I just swap it or repair it?

I decided that it was worth a go at a repair as I had nothing to lose, I could have just used an epoxy resin to fill the holes but I wanted something a bit more permanent.



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.....I decided to drill the corrosion out and use some aircraft grade countersunk aluminium rivets. 

Welding would have been another option but I didn't want any block distortion.

I drilled out to give a slight interference fit, tapped the rivet in and then peened the ends over, I will use a bit of sealant around the area just to be on the safe side.




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  • 2 weeks later...

I have worked on wet liner engines from a number of different manufacturers and all of them have had stepped liners that allow water to flow all the way around the cylinder.

Now I know that the 907 was an an early wet liner engine  but it seems a bit of a design flaw to butt the liners together, so I thought a little modification was in order.

It's only a small thing but a gentle grinding of the liner sides to let a bit of water flow around might help the poor thing keep cool.

I don't know if it will work but it's worth a try!


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They are the original liners, they have a raised edge down each side which butts up to the adjoining liner when fitted in the no gap at all between the liners themselves.

So all I have done is reduce the raised edge in a curve so as not to introduce any stress lines, this should allow a bit of water flow between the liners and reduce any flow dead spots.

As you can see on my liners there has been cavitation due to over heating which has eroded the outer surface of the liner a bit.

I don't know if it will work but it made sense in my twisted little mind🤪

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