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Finally decided to tackle the headlining on 713D

After reading up all I could find about replacing the headlining, I decided it was time to take the plunge an go forwards.I had ordered material from Woolies some 15 years ago, although dry stored, is was no better than the original headlining that was dangling from the car roof.Lotusbits supplied the one in the photographs. Close enough to the original, and will make the car look tidy again.Before starting, all seats were removed, just so I could get confortable.

Once the old lining removed and the area cleaned up, i measured not only the roof of the car, but also the dimensions of the material removed.On the roof, where the back section fits, I can clearly read: “713D” chassis number “VR” Vinyl roof, and “GOLD” the car colour. The photos have been touched up to show this.


Handwriting has been added for visibility


Handwriting has been added for visibility

The dimension are as follows:

Rear section: 1180mm x 490mm Glue zone 1130mm x 480mm

The back foam strip is not included ( 25mm wide x 1000mm long) must have been an inch originally.
Front section: 1180mm x 600mm Glue Zone 1160mm x 560mm

Roll bar section: 220mm x 1270mm

The parts were cut and make fro glue to be applied. I used a Würth Spray (power spray glue plus) max resistance 110C. The nozzle is adjustable, to set the spray width.


Application to the roof was simple and I would even say can be done without masking of the windows.

868289170_frontandrear.thumb.jpg.fcfb44bafae1a0291ee8b1816ca801ac.jpgApplication to the material on the bench is also easy, I used a cardboard guide to avoid over spray.

To transport the material to the car interior, I used an old cardboard poster roll. I pre-marked both the material and car centres (back and forwards).


roll to carry matrial, coated in glue

Bonded the centre line, then used a foam roller to put everything onto place.Much simpler, than at first anticipated.

The roll bar cover was also a lot more straight forward than expected. I supported the PVC moulding on my vise, applied glue on both sides and fitted the material. The grills were refined using hot glue…not a preferred engineering solution, but suitable for this application.973208253_rollbar.thumb.jpg.4f76f97070015e18c496e0daa4163716.jpg





Need to finish off the front piece and rear side pieces, and we should be good for another 40 years !

All for the moment. 



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This evening I remade the foam strip that is located between the rea window and the back of the roof lining (not all cars have this). Also the original headlinng is stiched to the strip finishing piece.

The original strip is made of a white foam like material, and make it very difficult to bond the headlining in a straight line.

The solution I used is a plastic door plinth (pre drilled holes filled). Thsi is very light. Photos should make this self explanatory.


plastic plinth



fitting the lining

402447706_generalview.thumb.jpg.4d1846454ab5491357b383a95b783509.jpgin position



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Moving forward with the headining re-trim this afternoon.

The tricky front part, as my sewing skills are inexistant, but still, no choice but ti give it a go. Used the old material as a template, cut the new, and pulled out the needle and thread.

headlining2.thumb.jpg.3bd55e8a1b8f7f5932f743c8c41cce92.jpgspacer.pngWhile gluing, 2 brackets need to be riveted into position, these are later fitted inside the top of each door seal. An overkill, as there is already a spring support 50 mm away.

1470307800_headliningfront.thumb.jpg.60640325aed7b96b3d5121107c48adcc.jpgBest to mount the rear view mirror first. Originally mounted with wood screws, and into the roll over bar. I prefered a simple nut an dbolt solution. There are spacers behindt the screws that support the sunvisors, these were reglued into position.

headlining3.thumb.jpg.a7975119b6fea79f6739849d9e0b5aa1.jpgBulb in the for dash illumination changed (even though it is useless)headlining4.thumb.jpg.00ced4603860aa2fde277401a977ccc7.jpg



Refit, check all works and now for the sun visors








Removed the material, and enjoyed discovering a cardboard card, sticky taped to a metal frame (well adds lightness)

Sewing skills will need to be discovered to retrim the visors, but first some dark brown material to keep it original.

Even, with a few mistakes, on the whole a positive Sunday in the garage.



Edited by Neil D.
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Waiting for trim parts to arrive gives me time to tackle a car rebuild 🙂

The front one tonight, the rear planned for tomorrow. Ultrasonic bath and soda blaster were a great help.

Metal covers replace the original light plastic coloured items.

2 small O rings left over, no idea were they may be fitted 😞






red tab was on the carbs since new. No idea what it means, but refitted it all the same.




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All is ready for refitting, however, I decided to inspect the spacer rings between the carbs and manifold B907E0129Z

This was fun, and also a possible explanation to some poor performance. 2 of the 4 spacer rings have cracked, strangely in the same position and a hole of about the same size.




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Mega job with the re trim and the carb rebuild BTW. As for the dash illumination it must have been quite innovative in its day and I havent seen it anywhere else other than Elite/Eclat models.(possibly unique and worth persevering with) It is better than nothing and if directed carefully can illuminate the centre dash adequately. I reinstated mine and it does make quite a difference compared to complete darkness.(Philips E10 MES 2.2v lens end bulb) Great photos....very informative pics,a picture can tell a 1000 words.

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Thank you for the kind words. The dash illumination does work, but it is more of a decoration.Our Skoda Yeti has the same system, and it works great.

Latest in the carb refurbishment: I discovered the spacer rings were damaged. I must have done this at some point in the past 30 years, but never noticed it. It may be an explanation for poor running.



Repaired the holes and refitted the carbs last night

Engine started on first attempt, hust need to adjust the air bleed screw and balance,


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