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V8 radiator replacement


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I know the V8s have a different ECM to the 4-pots, but on my S4s I believe the fan override wiring to have been the cause of my ECM's demise due to the lack of a protective diode. Not sure if the same

Undertray rusty brackets. Be creative with some stainless steel, cobalt drills and grinding tools, and some epoxy and glassfibre. I also made a jig first.  

Finished and ready to go on the radiator 👍🏻

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The second link is to an aluminum (aluminium on the right-hand side of the pond :yes: ) radiator. (Can't tell from the description in Cooling Solutions link)

 

Just a warning...seems as if the mounting style of the Esprit rad reduces the life of aluminum replacements.  I know of at least two owners who went back to brass (recored) units after experiencing failures within two years.

 

If you DO replace your radiator, hold onto the old one 'just in case' you need to recore it later.

Atwell Haines

'88 Esprit

Succasunna, NJ USA

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi,

I used the radtek and very pleased with that option, they do a full package with the cooling fans. Or you can go for coolex in nottingham they are popular as well, alistair will discuss with you your options and will only use top spec material.... All the classic guys are there when I have been with there austins and MG..

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On 16/08/2019 at 15:07, Mightymetro said:

The first one they can do a triple core radiator for £420 so I think I’ll go with that rather than the aluminium ones.  It comes with the frame too in case mine is unusable 

So you are saying that the first link is not triple core?

Are you suggesting to ask for their triple core model ? What material is it made of ? Is it, in your opinion, the best solution ? Any overheating issues after that ? Thanks !!

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I had to ask for a triple core version.  It should be with me next week so I will post pictures and look at the quality of it.  It is normal steel rather than aluminium.  I have no idea if it is the best solution as there was nothing wrong with my old radiator, it’s just that I am changing everything engine related ready for my refurbished engine to go in.

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9 hours ago, Mightymetro said:

I had to ask for a triple core version.  It should be with me next week so I will post pictures and look at the quality of it.  It is normal steel rather than aluminium.  I have no idea if it is the best solution as there was nothing wrong with my old radiator, it’s just that I am changing everything engine related ready for my refurbished engine to go in.

I am also rebuilding engine... and since I had overheating issues before... I might as well upgrade radiator (I think it was never sufficient in the first place)

The triple core is a must, and aluminum would be light and less prove to rusting... Probably more expensive...

I was thinking about this one..

http://www.proalloy.co.uk/cgi-bin/sitewise.pl?act=sect&s=52&id=proalloy

Provided they build the intercooler kit with separate radiator that fits next to the water radiator...

So I am waiting for now...

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  • 3 weeks later...
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No - don’t need to remove bumper.

you will need to drop the tray assembly - and to do that you may need to loosen the oil coolers... which is a pig of a job to do.

drop the whole pack on the floor and recon the lot 👍

Only here once

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None chap - most will either sheer off or give up when presented with the anglegrinder and 1mm cutting discs. It’s a two man job fitting  it back up really.

 

you might want to stock up on plasters

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Metro,

Id be interested to know how you get on with that rad from cooling solutions? I'm just doing the same and am debating wether to get mine rebuilt or buy a new one.

The radiator pack comes off ok, I put a jack under neath to support it while I removed all the bolts.

The most annoying part is on the V8 the oil cooler pipe goes through the plastic tray so you have to undo it from the oil coolers!!!

Luckily mine came undone ok. why it doesn't go through a notch either side I don't know.

Cheers

Andy

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Thanks all.  I have the new radiator ready to fit and it seems pretty well made.  I’ve been under the car and maybe underestimated how corroded everything is.  I’ve removed the lip spoiler, undertrays from under the oil coolers, the front radiator duct and I’ve slackened the bolts but not undone them on the strengthening bars that fasten to the anti roll bar brackets.  Under the radiator is a large fibreglass cowl and I’m guessing the radiator is attached to it when you talk about taking the pack out?

 

im going to remove the oil coolers so need to get the pipes off them and then I guess they feed out of the pack.  

 

‘’I’ll try getting it out later in the week 👍🏻.  Once I’ve got it out from under the car I can see what is salvageable from he fans etc etc

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I undid the hose that goes between the oil coolers and left the pipe in the GRP cowl. Get some of that freeze spray. I used this to aid removal.

 There are also individual cowls in front of the oil coolers. I had to Dremel the heads off the screws. 

Also electrics for fans and horn. I’m going to replace the fans for some Spal ones and beef up the wiring. 

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On 22/09/2019 at 15:25, andyblackman777 said:

Metro,

Id be interested to know how you get on with that rad from cooling solutions? I'm just doing the same and am debating wether to get mine rebuilt or buy a new one.

The radiator pack comes off ok, I put a jack under neath to support it while I removed all the bolts.

The most annoying part is on the V8 the oil cooler pipe goes through the plastic tray so you have to undo it from the oil coolers!!!

Luckily mine came undone ok. why it doesn't go through a notch either side I don't know.

Cheers

Andy

Create your own notch with a hacksaw and 5 minutes.

:)

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Good stuff Tim .  👍🏻

 

Finally got the radiator out.  It’s in really good condition to be fair but I have the triple core here so will fit that.  Do you guys use the spal fans because you suffer from warm running ?  I was hoping the triple row would aid the cooling sufficiently as I never had a problem before with the standard fans, or is it a preventative maintenance 

i removes every bit of plastic / fibreglass, the cowl, the ducts etc.  Pretty much every bolt had to be cut or ground off due to heads been so corroded that a socket was useless.  I was wondering how the hell you get the pipes off and access etc but once I had the main cowl down it was really easy.  

Because I have just removed everything and couldn’t tell when it was all together am I right in thinking the radiator is only held in place by the 2 end screws through the cowl ?????

garage floor now covered in oil from the pipes I had to cut off 😂

4FEEEF93-FA86-41EC-8696-ED7CF13EC3A8.jpeg

96453F5E-A2EA-4519-87C6-D048161E0B68.jpeg

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I used them as the air flow was better when the fans came on than the original fitments, spal are more efficient....  when they came on for the first time after fitment oh yes you can see the temp gauge come down so much quicker.... peace of mind... and yes could be classed as preventative maintainence...👍

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@Mightymetro - I used something like these. Cheap as chips and does the job superbly 

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F183911611541

 

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Also, on the radiator duct which is fibreglass it seems to have metal brackets moulded into it but these have all corroded and the fibreglass is breaking away around it and it looks like I might need to buy a new one.  I’ve looked on SJ and they seem to sell the brackets separate to the cowl.  Any ideas if people bond these to the original one

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  • Gold FFM

Is that the moulding behind the rad which the fans are fitted to? If so - I chucked mine in the skip - as have a few others on here.

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