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Dunc's Restoration - '89 Esprit SE


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  • 8 months later...
Posted (edited)

I'm a bit overdue an update so I'll just list either the new parts fitted or refurbished below, what I can remember anyway :)

 

Fuel tanks - Both fitted with new hoses/x-over pipe, new fuel level sender and pump

Rear suspension - All fitted awaiting final tightening once the car is loaded up with all the parts. New upper (adjustable) links, new shocks and springs, new lower links, new wheel bearings, all new bushes (inc. radius arms), all new bolts/fixings. New handbrake cables fitted

Doors - trim removed cleaned and treated, window motors removed and refurbished

Wipers - Seized motor removed and repaired, washers cleaned out. The washer motor was fine though, the only motor on the car that was. Typical it's the cheapest and easiest to fix!

Head lamps - Motors refurbished, lamps removed to clean up, replaced adjuster pins/clips and bulbs

Radiator - Refurbed and fitted in new frame with spal fans

Chassis pipes - All chassis pipes/grommets replaced with new inc. main rad and oil cooler (shift cables tested but not replaced)

Brake pipes - All replaced with copper

Dash binnicle - Tested and boost gauge replaced with manual stack one (luckily I already had one spare, bonus)

Wiring - Finshed removing old alarm, this has been the worst and most time comsuming job on the car so far - by MILES

Next on list is mount the new charge cooler rad and start changing the wiring for the new ECU

Cheers,

Dunc.

Edited by dunc_sx
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  • 2 months later...
On 25/04/2020 at 15:14, CHANGES said:

Fitting the liners ,

People have different ways of fitting liners, but this is the method I have used for years without issue . 

Once all the liners have the nip heights set / adjusted to required spec and are in correct orientation dry,  mark them up so they can be removed and placed back in exactly the same position when sealant applied..  I do this by simply applying masking tape up the center line of the decks..  see Pics's

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Next jobs is to remove all liners and prep all parts ready for next stage, this is done so you are not looking for any part in the middle of a procedure ...

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Wipe all mating surfaces on liners and block with a spirit wipe to remove any oils etc.  Prior to fitting liners it is time to refit all the block/head studs and locating dowels ..  important to note these are torqued in with oiled threads , i also apply a small amount of blue thread lock. 

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When all fitted prep area where liner # 1 is installed by first wiping with tack cloth , then smear the surface with your chosen sealant.

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Then prep the # 1 liner with tack cloth and apply sealant to the contact area. 

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Carefully slide the liner into place . When fully down give slight twisting action side to side to ensure fully bedded . You will find this will be quite stiff to do compared to when dry.. Whilst doing this ,using a long straight edge align the datum marks on the decks to ensure fully straight in position ..  Failure to do this now may cause alignment issues with the flats on the liners not being square to each other or even touching on the points.   By the time you have prepped and fitted liner # 2 it will be awkward to re orientate # 1 , as the sealant will have already grabbed .. 

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Repeat the same procedure on all 4 liners .  You should get a nice bead of sealant at the base and all around the liner if fitted correct. 

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Next job is to remove the masking tape markers and fit an old compressed but very clean head gasket, followed by the cylinder head.  Torque the head down to 40 ft lbs in the recognised sequence, ( remembering to oil the threads)  .  This will compress the liners into their final position. Leave like this for circa 12 to 24 hours .. 

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Before  leave to fully cure, invert the engine . You will see another bead of sealant on the base of the liner.  Remove this with a cloth and spirit wipe .  Because the sealants used here are mostly anaerobic they will not fully cure in that environment.  To prevent the sealant polluting the oil it is removed from that area,  it is not an issue in the water jacket where it will dissolve and disperse . 

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This conclude the fitting of the liners.  Next job will be to match the pistons to the bores and gap the rings ..     

 

Looks like a fantastic job. Do you have any tips for cleaning the liner seating area in the block.

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15 hours ago, PrecisionMike said:

Looks like a fantastic job. Do you have any tips for cleaning the liner seating area in the block.

Once you have established everything is sitting square and as it should , Just use a quality spirit wipe or solvent to clean any oils from the mating surfaces..  Just prior to fitting use a tack rag to insure no small impediment has got in the area ; even the smallest particle can cause a bind during final fitting .. 

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Thanks, but I was rather refering to the mound of rust like crud that fills the corner radius in the counter bore where the liner sits. It is tough and looks like it needs a chisel and sandpaper which of course , though tempting would ruin the engine. ...I'm currently soaking it in rust remover which is slowly helping. 

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14 hours ago, PrecisionMike said:

Thanks, but I was rather refering to the mound of rust like crud that fills the corner radius in the counter bore where the liner sits. It is tough and looks like it needs a chisel and sandpaper which of course , though tempting would ruin the engine. ...I'm currently soaking it in rust remover which is slowly helping. 

This just needs a bit of finesse with a small scraping tool similar to a gasket scraper. Then a light touch with 1000 grit wet and dry paper..  The liners do not go tight to the side , they sit where the clean section is ..  But you still need to clean it up to be sure it sits down correct .. 

When carefully cleaned you can coat the flat seat surface with engineers blue and then fit the new liner dry and rotate it with slight vertical pressure ..  When you then remove the liner you will be able to see if the seat surface is matching the liner ..   Its rare to have major issues in this area ..   The sealing is done around the sides in main , but the seat sitting square and flat is important from an engineering aspect ..   

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For removal of bulk sealant residue I recall a posting suggested heat plus solvent. I've found a mix of 70% naptha, 20% xylene and 10% methyl hydrate to be a potent mix, though bloody toxic I'm sure. FWIW

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Thankyou to all, job done! Very careful scraping with new razor blade after a soak in rust remover did the trick. With the blade held slightly away from the surface and pushed into the corner the fillet radius of rust and crude is gone. Thanks also due to PNM Engineering for advice!

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