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It does rather look like it was banana shaped before it snapped - perhaps suggesting an impact of some kind. The threads below the break also seem to be distorted (closer together on the right than the left).

Blessed with the competence to be a slave to the incapable.

Currently without a Lotus, Evora 400 Hethel Edition in Racing Green with Red leather and 2010 Evora N/A in Laser Blue and 1983 Lotus Excel LC Narrow body in Ice Blue all sadly gone.

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20 minutes ago, Colin P said:

It does rather look like it was banana shaped before it snapped - perhaps suggesting an impact of some kind. The threads below the break also seem to be distorted (closer together on the right than the left).

That could have ocurred at final break point. Reduced cross section leading to bending and failure.

I wonder if there is an increased loading with the change of tyres on later models?

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28 minutes ago, Bruss said:

That could have ocurred at final break point. Reduced cross section leading to bending and failure.

Makes sense.

Blessed with the competence to be a slave to the incapable.

Currently without a Lotus, Evora 400 Hethel Edition in Racing Green with Red leather and 2010 Evora N/A in Laser Blue and 1983 Lotus Excel LC Narrow body in Ice Blue all sadly gone.

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  • Gold FFM

Ouch! Hopefully @spitfireengineering  will have an Evora upgrade kit like they do for the VX, Elise and Exige?

Alcohol. Sex. Tobacco. Drugs. Chocolate.  Meh! NOTHING in this world is as addictive as an Evora +0. It's not for babies!    

The first guy to ride a bull for fun, was a true hero. The second man to follow him was truly nuts!   

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I'm not so much asking for an analysis of my break, I head an engineering team of structural, mechanical and metallurgical engineers, bt rather have any others seen this.  Yes the aftermarket provides an alternative, but I always assumed that it was from a desire to create a market based on Elise/Exige fears.

 

Yes, the threads were bend at a 28 deg angle, thus why i laid them out that way

Yes, impact loading was involved

Yes multi cracks formed at various times i)fatigue, ii) compression, iii) tensile

No, the "mark" is irrelevant as it is most probably a tool slip on the nut.

No measurable reduction in area, thread material is typically heat treated to very high yield and tight yield to tensile ratios thus little ductility

Don't see that todays OEM tires are a cause as theses cars back to the Series 1 have been tracked with R compound tires including semi slicks Hoosier A7, design and part numbers of the suspension arms and links are the same since Series 1.

 

 

 

Edited by Julian73
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Thanks Julian. Just trying to get a handle on what's happened. I track mine  on cup 2's and haven't seen any sign of this but I havent done a DP test. I did look at the spitfire links and decided I would change mine out at some time, probably at my next suspension refresh.

 

 

 

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  • 3 months later...

Replaced OEM toe links with Spitfire Engineering's Version 2 (sold by HethelSport in the US), these move the turnbuckle to the outer end of the rod, while increasing the thread diameter and going to a large diameter hollow tube aluminum rod rather than a thinner steel forging. (last photo curtsey of #HethelSport)

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  • 1 month later...
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  • 4 months later...
On 07/02/2020 at 22:09, Julian73 said:

Update, we've gone with Eibach adjustables.

I've just realized that I entered this post in my wrong thread.  This subject is in relation to the ARB drop links, where I moved to an adjustable drop link so as to remove weight bias.

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4 hours ago, Julian73 said:

I've just realized that I entered this post in my wrong thread.  This subject is in relation to the ARB drop links, where I moved to an adjustable drop link so as to remove weight bias.

Interested to see those. Whichever thread you decide. 🙂

 

 

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  • 1 year later...

I have to replace a broken rear tie rod and have a few questions. Do I go with the original at £100 or do I go with the Spitfire engineering upgrade at considerably more?

If I choose the upgrade do I have to do both sides or can I just replace the broken one?

The upgrade is lighter and stronger. I wouldn't notice the difference if it was lighter (apologies to ACBC). It is stronger, is the original part designed to be sacrificial to protect the bits that it connects to?

Delivery timescales may be the deciding factor as I want to drive my Lotus. Does anybody have experience of  sourcing this part?

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