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Giugiaro Esprit S1 Full Restoration


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13 hours ago, whiskybob said:

This looks the best one out of those two. You need the length to adequately cover the gap you make where the waistline trim enters behind the bumper, but other than that just a strong enough rubber so that it's not floppy, which results in a wavy edge where it grips the bumper. This seems to fit the bit on both counts. Also having a thick enough base (bottom of the 'U') to take up the space from the edge of the bumper and the body shell.

Let me know how you get on.

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  • 5 months later...
On 29/09/2021 at 22:32, whiskybob said:

Very good. Will send results when ready...

How did you get on with the waistline trim @whiskybob?

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1 hour ago, Fridge said:

That looks great @whiskybob 

Thanks.  Doors and dash are now off.  That dash was a pain, almost impossible to get to bolts... 😡

Lotus Resto Body.jpeg

Edited by whiskybob
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  • 2 months later...
On 08/03/2022 at 11:22, whiskybob said:

Thanks.  Doors and dash are now off.  That dash was a pain, almost impossible to get to bolts... 😡

Lotus Resto Body.jpeg

Looking good!

I'm busy progressing finishing tasks between heavy showers, now that personal finances and suppliers have got back to pre-pandemic levels.

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Since then not much has changed as the MGB has taken over...  About to go for welding inner well arches  plus area, then respray...

IMG_0900.jpeg

IMG_0901.jpeg

IMG_0902.jpeg

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Posted (edited)

I know the feeling. I had to curtail the final stages of this 4 years and counting (as of 2020) Esprit restoration due to a downturn in income due to the pandemic.

I had a lot of fun driving it in the summer of 2020 though, as I did my 1961 Sunbeam Alpine. Perhaps more so the latter since it is complete!

I spent last year renewing certain assemblies and components on the Alpine which proved more economic. Namely rear brakes, rare drums, handbrake and lever arm shock absorbers (on pre-Series III models).

Having resumed working on the Esprit hopefully it will be fully complete this time next year. Making the restoration 7 years in total. Compared to the 1 year it took to take the Alpine down to bare metal and rebuild it.

Edited by Fridge
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2 minutes ago, Fridge said:

I know the feeling. I had to curtail the final stages of this 4 years and counting (as of 2020) Esprit restoration due to a downturn in income due to the pandemic.

I had a lot of fun driving it in the summer of 2020 though, as I did my 1961 Sunbeam Alpine. Perhaps more so the latter since it is complete!

I spent last year renewing certain assemblies and components on the Alpine which proved more economic. Namely rear brakes, rare drums, handbrake and lever arm shock absorbers (on pre-Series III models).

Having resumed working on the Esprit hopefully it will be fully complete this time next year.

I hear you...  Mind who just found out the same fella that's going to respray the B has also done lots of fiberglass cars so will probably do the S1 body... 

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On 27/05/2022 at 14:56, whiskybob said:

I hear you...  Mind who just found out the same fella that's going to respray the B has also done lots of fiberglass cars so will probably do the S1 body... 

Yes, that sounds like a good idea. I did similar back in 2016.

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  • 1 month later...

Just done a compression test following some cylinder head and cambelt/tensioner maintenance. Looking very good at an average of 181 lbs sq in across the cylinders.

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I noted an interesting and intriguing phenomena recently as regards oil pressure at the Veglia gauge of the S1.

Following an oil change the oil pressure registered on start up but quickly fell from mid-deflection to dangerously low levels in about 5-6 seconds. It had previously been OK prior to the oil change (Halfords Classic 20w50 mineral oil to Valvoline 20w50).

On disconnecting the braided oil pressure pipe from the transducer I placed it into a plastic bottle and ran the engine for 6 seconds which created a thumb's depth of engine oil. So retried with an external gauge and got a good deflection of about 60 lbs sq in.

On reconnection to the transducer and retest the oil pressure gauge in the Veglia cluster began working correctly again.

Anyone else experienced this sort of thing?

I would say an air lock had developed on draining the old engine oil, which would move during down time, and then be pushed back up to the end of the pipe to the transducer, compressing easier than the oil, resulting in an indicated fall in pressure. Even though in reality the pressure was good.

I'd be interested in hearing ideas from others.

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I just put instruments in my Kitty, including changing the oil pressure indicator to an actual gauge, with a pressure sender, not just a switch. The sender is plumbed in with a short extension so that the oil pressure switch is also active. One thing they recommended was to start the engine and let it run for 3 minutes, shut it down, and remove the sender until oil flows out. So, if I had been in your shoes, I would have realized the problem after it happened, but wouldn't have thought that it would happen, since no one else has reported this.... or maybe they don't recognize that problem.

Good information for anyone rebuilding an engine or replacing that sender. Might be good practice for all oil changes, at least in the S1. S2, nope, not going to happen. Oil line runs to the instrument.

Mineral oil?

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4 hours ago, bgalbraith said:

Mineral oil?

Yes, I don't run synthetic oils in my classics as I was told that the modern chemical composition of their "detergents" can be too aggressive on older engines, and to use high quality mineral oils instead. This was years ago, when synthetic and semi-synthetics emerged onto the market, so things may have changed since then.

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2 hours ago, Fridge said:

Yes, I don't run synthetic oils in my classics as I was told that the modern chemical composition of their "detergents" can be too aggressive on older engines, and to use high quality mineral oils instead. This was years ago, when synthetic and semi-synthetics emerged onto the market, so things may have changed since then.

I run synthetic oil in my S1 and Turbo. The molecules are smaller and more consistent, so it could leak if seals are in poor condition. In that case they should be replaced anyway.  I also use 10W60, more oil pressure when hot. 
The S1 sender is very sensitive to resistance. If the spade connection to it is not making good contact it can result in spurious oil pressure readings. Could it have been disturbed when you changed the oil? 

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@Lotusfabthe transducer does appear to be a weak link, and it is exposed in relatively uncluttered the S1/S2 engine bay, with potential for developing a compromised connection. Though it is well protected.

However, do not forget in my account above neither the transducer or the wiring were disturbed. Just the oil feed disconnected and reconnected. Even the oil remained the same.

 

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