drdoom Posted November 15, 2019 Report Share Posted November 15, 2019 When assembling the dash does the glovebox attach to the dash before or after it's placed on the scuttle? I'm preparing pieces for new trim, with work underway at last but it's been a terribly long time since disassembly and some guidance would be most welcome. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveyT Posted November 16, 2019 Report Share Posted November 16, 2019 Watching.. glove box was the final item to fit in my case, and the front lip seems happiest sitting over the dashboard moulding. Not sure if its riveted or screwed in place, but it looks a bit untidy, so needs something to hold it down Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gis Posted November 16, 2019 Report Share Posted November 16, 2019 I had my glove box off recently and on a TE it’s like an oregano piece that’s kinda folded into place. Not sure if the S2 type is the same. It’s not a box as such but more like a folded sheet. Right hand attaches to the fuse boxes and the front and back lips are held in place by 3 screws each iirc. So on a TE it can certainly be post mounted. Quote Ad initium Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drdoom Posted November 16, 2019 Author Report Share Posted November 16, 2019 Thanks lads, agree with your points other than Gis' "oregano". Gotta love Spellcheck! Trying to rope in my unfortunate tendency to over-correct defects I may resist working the thing over for the sake of improved looks. With the bin closed one may not see that it attaches to the scuttle beam with screws, so that should be tolerable. What does seem to be visible at all times is the bottom edge which dangles below that of the dash finisher on my S2 by perhaps 19mm. This could be finessed with a touch of the same trim as will skin the dash broadly. Whatever, the Esprit remains a better car than its Lambo and Ferrari contemporaries! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gis Posted November 16, 2019 Report Share Posted November 16, 2019 Origami not oregano obviously 😀 damn autocorrect 1 Quote Ad initium Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StonerUK Posted December 26, 2019 Report Share Posted December 26, 2019 I read many comments that to access the relays and some of the loom the best way is to remove the glove box, no problem just six fastenings to unscrew. I did this then seemed a struggle to actual remove the glove box without bending or creasing it and risk damage. Do you have to force it it out, seems wrong? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gis Posted December 27, 2019 Report Share Posted December 27, 2019 Did you undo the screws (and nuts) of the fuse boxes as well? Once all is loose and screws removed, there’s a bit of persuasion needed. I would not call it force, just wiggle it out. At least that’s how it worked with my glove box. 1 Quote Ad initium Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveyT Posted December 27, 2019 Report Share Posted December 27, 2019 Silly Q, but have you also unplugged the relays from the loom before trying to take it out? as per @Gis, it does come out, but it’s definitely not a “drop in” fit 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StonerUK Posted December 27, 2019 Report Share Posted December 27, 2019 Nope I literally just tried tease it out without removing all the gubbins. Appreciate much better to remove the boxes and relays first and now you mention it seems obvious. I believe my lucks changing cause in the mean time thought I’d try both door lamps back in place again and see if perhaps by magic they switched off when the door closed like there supposed to (original reason for wanting to fiddle behind the box ) and you ain’t gonna believe me they both bloody worked !! Seems my drivers door plunger switch was it a bit wanky after all, intermittent and worked when on the bench for testing. So sweat it for two weeks, curse for another two and loose some blood in between and it should all work out fine later. Ill now remove the wanky switch and fix like a should have in the first place. I’ll put the glove box refurb on the back burner for another day. cheers guys. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveyT Posted December 27, 2019 Report Share Posted December 27, 2019 1 hour ago, StonerUK said: So sweat it for two weeks, curse for another two and loose some blood in between and it should all work out fine later. Ill now remove the wanky switch and fix like a should have in the first place Welcome to the wonderful world of Esprit maintenance 🤣 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StonerUK Posted December 27, 2019 Report Share Posted December 27, 2019 You won’t believe the exaltation now both lamps work. I’m boosted to tackle the next job and may attempt to remove the drivers side Windscreen to door opening inner trim so I can access both door hinges and adjust the door latch for a finger snug closure. Apparently it just pops off, but I’m not that easily fooled, LOL. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveyT Posted December 27, 2019 Report Share Posted December 27, 2019 Whats the problem with the door? Afaik, there’s no adjustment on the door latch to door beam fixing, it’s all via the body mounted plate. are your hinges worn slightly? (Can you lift the door up at the back? Only takes a couple of mill and you can see the shut lines going narrowing at the door/cill gap) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gis Posted December 27, 2019 Report Share Posted December 27, 2019 19 minutes ago, StonerUK said: Apparently it just pops off, but I’m not that easily fooled, LOL. If you refer to the A pillar inner trim, yes, that one just pops off (pull them straight toward the center if the windscreen) but only if you remove the upper front cross trim (the bit that holds the mirror) and the upper door trim iirc. Not difficult to do, a couple of screws, peel back the door seals to reveal the screws for the upper door trim, the other screws are visible on the inside. Door adjustments is per body mounted plate as Dave has pointed out. Quote Ad initium Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StonerUK Posted December 27, 2019 Report Share Posted December 27, 2019 I wouldn’t have done correctly for sure, was just gonna yank it out. So pleased you stopped me cocking it up! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StonerUK Posted December 27, 2019 Report Share Posted December 27, 2019 I only need to lift a fraction, but will make all the difference I know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StonerUK Posted December 28, 2019 Report Share Posted December 28, 2019 I only need to lift a fraction, but will make all the difference I know. All done and now shuts properly and managed without having to remove the binnacle, (need a narrow body socket wrench). Great job! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gold FFM thebartman Posted August 25, 2020 Gold FFM Report Share Posted August 25, 2020 Hi, I know this Glove Box post is slightly old, but I thought I'd give myself a short project to re-finish the glove box, as I needed access to wiring behind it ... What a comination - Origami and LOTUS position - only took me two hours though,as the fuse board nuts were tricky to get to - but 2 hours - nailed it !! 😉 I'm going to retrim the glove box in a pimp-it-up sort of way, as the standard black vinyl looks tatty after 35 years. Anyway - the real questions are - looking at the images (ignoring mouse fur, etc. etc.) :- 1. where does the "spare" vent pipework go to/come from ? 2. What might the sealed-off green wire do? 3. What does the black cable with the bullet connector do? I have no working door lights, and no courtesy light timer delay ....... would these have anything to do with it ? Now going to refit it (glove box) temoprarily to keep the relays safe whilst travelling thebartman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drdoom Posted August 25, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 25, 2020 A rare opportunity presents here to bestow accolades upon Lucas, Prince of Darkness. Uniquely in the automotive world Lucas adhere to a colour code with wiring, as review of the wiring diagrams for Esprit with confirm. A brief treatise published long ago by the late, Dave Bean, attached for reference. The stray ventilation hose may have separated from its terminating end, the passenger side face level vent on the dash, although a look upward from floor level will confirm. If the hose originates from the main case mid-section it is a dash vent hose, if from the uppermost region it is the floor level ventilation and thus pretty much as it should be. Cheers DBE_0N_WIRING.pdf 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gold FFM thebartman Posted August 25, 2020 Gold FFM Report Share Posted August 25, 2020 Thank you, kind Sir, for sharing - starts to makes sense. So I have a green "hot" fused live wire which is now not feeding anything ,just wafting around under the dash and a spare ground which isn't grounding anything. Wonder what the "bit" in the middle may have been .... hmmmnnnnn Just a bit more work, then 😉 As for vent pipe, it's definitely not the dash vent, nor the windscreen vent. So does it really just "float around" with no securing or vent grille on the end ? Shall have to now add HVAC to the ever growing list .... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drdoom Posted August 26, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 26, 2020 Just looking at this again with fresh eyes first thing in the morning, realise an error in proposed hose run posted earlier. Will check my HVAC layout later today as I'd overlooked the demister runs in advising on this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drdoom Posted August 26, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 26, 2020 If the hose is indeed for the footwell then, yes, it dangles without a terminting end. On my resto, I looked upon this as entirely adequate so long as not readily visible. One could source a diffuser to fit at its end but I think that altogether unnecessary. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drdoom Posted August 27, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 27, 2020 " . . . without a terminating end." Late now, the end of a long one away on a job so no chance for a look at the vent hoses, on it in the AM. Ciao for now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gold FFM thebartman Posted August 27, 2020 Gold FFM Report Share Posted August 27, 2020 Appreciate the input @drdoom :- demisters work, so maybe I'll just create some sort of fixing just to hold it at a suitable angle for footwell .... After many, many applications of penetrating oil over the last 4 weeks, I've finally loosened the bolts on the seats - so will attempt a removal later today - this to create more room to work (might get a better look at vent hose), as well as commencing leather restoration - all running in parallel - hope this doesn't lead to more discoveries and work to do 🤪 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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