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What are my options for wiring my SmartyCam and channel expander (futureproofing for sensors) through the centre console and up into the front dash?

Ive made a start lol

C8334BC7-A53A-4949-8448-492CBF5C7F06.jpeg.82d0a2ed19616a079995ebc8ff4a26b5.jpeg


www.alias23.com

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@MrP_ is the man you need here, Pauls an expert on fitting things in and around the dash 👍👍 given his previous excellent posts on sound equipment.

What I didn’t realise with Aim is that you will also need the Data Hub and the Sensor expander when fitting the Smarty cam as there is only one connection on the unit. This means the hub being in cabin, probably in the dash or under it. The sensor expander can live in the engine bay.

cheers

Mark

ps how big of a job was that to remove all the trim ?

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2 hours ago, alias23 said:

What are my options for wiring my SmartyCam and channel expander (futureproofing for sensors) through the centre console and up into the front dash?

Ive made a start lol

C8334BC7-A53A-4949-8448-492CBF5C7F06.jpeg.82d0a2ed19616a079995ebc8ff4a26b5.jpeg

As Mark has said I presume you would fit the hub under the dash so you are only routing a single cable? Easiest way is to route around one of the side vents and then under the dash to the central spine in the footwell.

An alternative would be to pull the antenna cable back through, and go through that grommet - its a bugger to get to though, but as could pull an 8ga cable through then pass whatever cable you need back and forth. Downside of this the hole is tiny so presume you want to keep the connector terminated and you can't remove and determinate? But this is the main route for the harness into the dash

There also an option to go down the same route as the HVAC and drill out the back of the shelf pass directly to the centre line.

Do you know what diameter cables, how many and their allowable bend radius (presume you can go pretty tight)?

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On 16/12/2019 at 22:26, Mark030358 said:

@MrP_ is the man you need here, Pauls an expert on fitting things in and around the dash 👍👍 given his previous excellent posts on sound equipment.

What I didn’t realise with Aim is that you will also need the Data Hub and the Sensor expander when fitting the Smarty cam as there is only one connection on the unit. This means the hub being in cabin, probably in the dash or under it. The sensor expander can live in the engine bay.

cheers

Mark

ps how big of a job was that to remove all the trim ?

Its not that big, well it looks big but not too hard. Disconnect battery to make airbag safe, wait a bit it all to power down and capacitors to discharge.

Remove start button and blanking panels, remove some hidden screws, heat side sills, persuade the back end up, pull out sills and vent panels (I vend it easier with them still together rather than trying to wiggle them out).

Remove steering wheel surround, remove binnacle surround, unscrew clocks, remove clocks from mount. 

Lever the airbag cover off (requires breaking tabs). Remove stereo, remove stereo cage. Unsccrew HVAC centre vents, pull free.

Remove 4 or 5 screws on dash leading edge, lift dash up, disconnect front speakers. Lift dash free. Its easier if you remove the wheel, but you don't have to.

Thats it from memory, sure there are one or two steps skipped over. If you know what you are doing its an hour or two.

Happy to help as its simple one you've done it before  - hopefully we can get a time when we're not both travelling!

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On 16/12/2019 at 23:30, MrP_ said:

As Mark has said I presume you would fit the hub under the dash so you are only routing a single cable? Easiest way is to route around one of the side vents and then under the dash to the central spine in the footwell.

An alternative would be to pull the antenna cable back through, and go through that grommet - its a bugger to get to though, but as could pull an 8ga cable through then pass whatever cable you need back and forth. Downside of this the hole is tiny so presume you want to keep the connector terminated and you can't remove and determinate? But this is the main route for the harness into the dash

There also an option to go down the same route as the HVAC and drill out the back of the shelf pass directly to the centre line.

Do you know what diameter cables, how many and their allowable bend radius (presume you can go pretty tight)?

Thank You!

Firstly I have no Scooby Doo what you mean by "you want to keep the connector terminated and you can't remove and determinate?"

lol so for sure your guidance much appreciated :)

There will be two cables (SmartyCam and Channel Expander) which will be fed from behind the centre of the seats. Each cable is circa 4mm but has a connector which I would say is around 8mm the cables are quite flexible and the cable length is around 2m.

The data hub (which the SmartyCam and Channel Expander connects to) will be inside the dash ideally near the binnacle, the channel expander hub would be behind the seats to give access to the sensors that will live in the engine bay.

When you say via the HVAC are you saying something under the area highlighted in green? There is a whole shelf it seems (purple/pink highlight) which would be perfect for routing cables through but it doesn't seem accessible. There does seem to be a gap to route the cable up through the area of the steering wheel - Is this an option? You're quite right in that the grommet for the main harness into the dash is very very difficult to get to but also very tight so unsure if I'd want to start cutting it larger as I can see a risk of cutting a wire by mistake! Im going to now go search for your stereo thread to see what you did @MrP_

dash.png.d6f89e839f10fd4a1c50d15c906d7713.png
 


www.alias23.com

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9 hours ago, MrP_ said:

Its not that big, well it looks big but not too hard. Disconnect battery to make airbag safe, wait a bit it all to power down and capacitors to discharge.

Remove start button and blanking panels, remove some hidden screws, heat side sills, persuade the back end up, pull out sills and vent panels (I vend it easier with them still together rather than trying to wiggle them out).

Remove steering wheel surround, remove binnacle surround, unscrew clocks, remove clocks from mount. 

Lever the airbag cover off (requires breaking tabs). Remove stereo, remove stereo cage. Unsccrew HVAC centre vents, pull free.

Remove 4 or 5 screws on dash leading edge, lift dash up, disconnect front speakers. Lift dash free. Its easier if you remove the wheel, but you don't have to.

Thats it from memory, sure there are one or two steps skipped over. If you know what you are doing its an hour or two.

Happy to help as its simple one you've done it before  - hopefully we can get a time when we're not both travelling!

In Algeria for Xmas and New Year :(

 

But I'll take you up on that offer :)

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@MrP_ dogs bollocks of a write up. Exactly what I would do.... 👍👍👍👍

 

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1 hour ago, alias23 said:

@MrP_ when can I drop my car off and just pay you? Thanks for the information I'll try and condense and figure it all out! 

I got in there first, wait your turn 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣......

Told you he was the man 👍👍

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20 hours ago, alias23 said:

@MrP_ when can I drop my car off and just pay you? Thanks for the information I'll try and condense and figure it all out! 

Happy to help if we can make logistics work, or if you need any more explanation as it was a bit of a brain dump

If Aim make up the extension cables, then a 1m, 1.5m, and 3m and that would do the wiring for above, maybe add 30cm or so for a bit of a safety net - then you don't have to solder it even

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@alias23regarding the cabling of your smartycam, it should be quite flexible in my opinion. Maybe one day you want to install it on the harness bar, maybe another day you want to get another view angle and move the camera to the windscreen.

 

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