mik 376 Posted January 24, 2020 Report Share Posted January 24, 2020 Great description and discussion. I threw my phone in the boot without removing the cover, but can still see that I would probably benefit from the same “+2 washers” tweak to move the hammer out a couple of mm... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bulletmagnet 26 Posted January 24, 2020 Author Report Share Posted January 24, 2020 Glad people are finding this handy Mik, I can see the wear mark on your hammer just on the corner, where it is just catching your latch pin. Does your manual cable work okay? My whole issue was that that the manual cable tilted the mechanism (because it is attached to a higher point of the hammer lever) and the hammer slipped behind the latch pin. Out of interest, how many washers do you currently have per mounting bolt? And remember, if you do adjust it, make sure everything is aligned correctly and bolts tightened before you shut your boot (and the key is in your hand). Otherwise you could cause a bigger problem than you already have. There is that old saying: If it ain’t broke, don’t try to fix it Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mik 376 Posted January 24, 2020 Report Share Posted January 24, 2020 Yes my manual pull works - I had to use it in the past - because teenagers. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bulletmagnet 26 Posted February 23, 2020 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2020 (edited) Okay, time for an update. I now need to rig up a method of trickle charging the new battery. The car is in a garage with NO mains power, so I am going to use a solar panel setup on the roof...more on that later. First step is installing a Magcode connector on the outside of the car. I want to use this method as I don’t like the idea of having a cable being kinked in the boot lid (even though other people say there’s enough clearance in the rubber seal), I also have a car cover on most of the time, so don’t want that trapping the cable against the bodywork. So I read Chad’s (2011 chrome orange) excellent post on Lotustalk with interest https://www.lotustalk.com/threads/exterior-mounted-12v-magnetic-battery-charger-connector-for-evoras.470374/ and considered buying the kit he used from Hethelsport https://hethelsport.com/tools/charger-connection-kit/ But it’s fairly expensive plus import duties to the U.K. So I put my own kit together... The Magcode connector is available on Amazon for £36.99 https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01MS0B8HH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 The protective cover is £11.99 https://www.amazon.co.uk/Magcode-Plastic-Protective-Weatherproof-Spring/dp/B01NCP1IFI/ref=pd_sbs_263_3/257-7002855-5412464?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01NCP1IFI&pd_rd_r=4fa2f4c5-dff5-4aec-a51d-3ea48742f4e8&pd_rd_w=EeyBC&pd_rd_wg=XwaS7&pf_rd_p=96cae456-8d7a-4bc1-91c7-9b20b4dfd7c9&pf_rd_r=H5WQHEH21HYBFK1T86ZM&psc=1&refRID=H5WQHEH21HYBFK1T86ZM Then a few bits of heat proof cable, some protective braiding, a fuse carrier and some crimp connectors all for about a tenner. So I had my kit for about £60. Next step was finding a route from the battery compartment to where I’m mounting the Magcode in the diffuser at the left rear of the car. On the S1 Evora there is no vent under the carpet like Chad has on his later model, but the battery vent pipe goes through a grommet and pre-drilled hole into the left rear wheel arch, it then dangles down into fresh air near the ARB and diffuser assembly. Perfect, I can use this route. I considered just removing the vent pipe to make way for my cabling, as I always thought vent pipes under a ventilated bonnet i.e. on a front engined car were a waste of time. But in an enclosed compartment in the boot of the Evora I think it’s pretty important to allow hydrogen to escape. My car didn’t have it’s vent pipe connected as the little vent elbow was missing (previous owner), so I got a new elbow and put that right. I decided to drill the hole for the Magcode in the aluminium diffuser just to the left of the exhaust hanger mounting bracket. It’s shielded from the heat of the exhaust here and easily accessible to hook up to my solar panel charger. So the diffuser came off to make drilling easier and safer. I clamped a block of wood to it to support drilling the hole and stop the aluminium flexing or getting damaged when the hole saw breaks through. Here I am at the point of no return with a 29mm hole saw...measure twice cut once! Edited February 23, 2020 by Bulletmagnet Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bulletmagnet 26 Posted February 23, 2020 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2020 I installed the Magcode with about a foot of spare cable. This allows the diffuser to be dropped and the connectors easily removed (just got to remember to tell that to any mechanics working on the car in future). It’s then routed up through a hole in the chassis structure, where the slack foot of cable neatly stows, then up into the left rear wheel arch. I protected the cables with the braiding and put some heat shrink sleeves on the ends to neaten it up. Then in through the grommet to the battery compartment where I connected my fuse carrier and hooked it all up to the battery. No need for the braiding in here...I couldn’t get it through the grommet anyway. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bulletmagnet 26 Posted February 23, 2020 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2020 So this how it looks with the diffuser back in place: And here it is with the cable from my solar charger connected: The great thing about this connector is the simplicity of it. It only lines up in one place so you can’t do it wrong, which is great as you can pop it on without having to get down on your hands and knees...AND the magnet actually switches it on inside the plug so it’s essentially dead when disconnected. Next post will be some solar panel fun, which hopefully will be useful for anyone away from the mains like me... 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
2011 Chrome Orange 137 Posted February 23, 2020 Report Share Posted February 23, 2020 Nice job! It makes hooking up very convenient for sure. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bulletmagnet 26 Posted February 23, 2020 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2020 1 minute ago, 2011 Chrome Orange said: Nice job! It makes hooking up very convenient for sure. Thanks for your inspiration Chad 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Popular Post Bulletmagnet 26 Posted May 3, 2020 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted May 3, 2020 So I’ve finally got the solar panel setup on the roof of the garage and all hooked up through a breaker and solar charge controller. I got all this stuff from Photonics Universe, they have a great range of stuff and a very helpful chap called Tom gave me advice on what to go for: https://www.photonicuniverse.com As my garage roof is in dappled shade most of the time, I went for a German made 40w panel, which is probably oversized for the task, but will make sure I get a decent amount of current when the sun is on the panel. If your situation was in full sun, you could probably make do with a 10 or 20w version. https://www.photonicuniverse.com/en/catalog/full/13-40W-12V-solar-panel-with-5m-cable-German-solar-cells.html This is routed through a circuit breaker to the charge controller. I went for a decent spec’ controller with a lcd display and usb outlets, which will come in handy: https://www.photonicuniverse.com/en/catalog/full/22-10A-12V24V-solar-charge-controller--regulator-with-LCD-display-and-powerful-dual-USB-output-24A.html After marking out the position of the panel on the roof, I drilled the required 8 holes and then mounted it with some dome head m6x50mm bolts so it can’t be removed from the outside. The bolt holes were sealed with a black Geocel adhesive sealant applied both under the feet of the bracket and between the bracket and bolt heads. Had some pretty heavy downpours since and no leaks inside: https://www.screwfix.com/p/geocel-the-works-sealant-adhesive-black-290ml/66022 Here is the panel in position: The breaker and solar controller mounted on the wall beside the rear of the car: And then the charging cable leading down to the Magcode connector under the diffuser: The hookup is always: battery connected first, then throw the breaker on to start charging. The controller needs to initialise first when connected to the battery, then you can pump some sunlight into it. Driving away is: breaker off, then disconnect the Magcode. Hope this is useful to anyone else faced with my issue of no mains power in the garage. 4 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MJ 9 Posted May 10, 2020 Report Share Posted May 10, 2020 Any tips or mods for someone like me running a lithium battery in a 410? Would I have to step the power up to mains and then plug a Lithium compatible charger into it? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
electro_boy 209 Posted May 11, 2020 Report Share Posted May 11, 2020 Should just be able to use a different charge controller suitable for lithium batteries. eg this one might be suitable: https://www.photonicuniverse.com/en/catalog/full/296-High-efficiency-10A-MPPT-solar-charge-controller-for-solar-panels-up-to-130W-12V--260W-24V-up-to-100V.html Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bulletmagnet 26 Posted May 12, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 12, 2020 On 10/05/2020 at 12:07, MJ said: Any tips or mods for someone like me running a lithium battery in a 410? Would I have to step the power up to mains and then plug a Lithium compatible charger into it? I can’t advise personally as I’m no expert, but give the chaps at Photonic Universe a bell...they were friendly and knowledgeable, so should be able to help. Happy customer here Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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