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Freescan vs Espritmon


AndyPG

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Hi Guys,

Sorry if this has been asked before. I have tried some searches.

I'd like to get up and running with Freescan or Espritmon.

A couple of questions...

  • Are they pretty much the same or do they have different capabilities?
  • Are they both free to download?
  • Do I simply just need to make a lead (with 2x transistors + a diode etc) and hook up to a laptop with a serial port?

Cheers,

Andy.

 

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  • Gold FFM

Both do pretty much the same thing. From memory espritmon has some nice graphs and can display the brake abs computer stuff as well. Either are both ace tools.

yes a serial lead with a couple of transistors does the job - or you can buy a lead for about £40

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24 minutes ago, sailorbob said:

Freescan gives inaccurate values for some parameters, Espritmon is preferable.

Thanks for the input Guys.

I've bought an Esprit SE which is over fueling. Chugging a little like the choke's on even when fully warmed up.

Removed the spark plugs and all 4 are sooty.

I've ordered the parts to build the ALDL lead, should be here in a few days so I can see what's going on.

In the meantime, is there anything I should take a look at?

Andy.

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You’ll almost certainly need the lead for this.

sure I’ve commented on your other thread on this issue -check and set TPS and check / replace the iac valve 

Edited by Barrykearley

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Wise not to do anything significant until you've accessed the data.  Could well be a simple component/calibration issue; could equally be a major baseline fault, especially as you've recently bought it.  Any history?  Initially worth checking integrity of all vacuum lines, induction, camshaft timing, and perhaps valve clearances.

British Fart to Florida, Nude to New York, Dunce to Denmark, Numpty to Newfoundland.  And Shitfaced Silly Sod to Sweden.

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18 minutes ago, Sparky said:

Wise not to do anything significant until you've accessed the data.  Could well be a simple component/calibration issue; could equally be a major baseline fault, especially as you've recently bought it.  Any history?  Initially worth checking integrity of all vacuum lines, induction, camshaft timing, and perhaps valve clearances.

Thanks Gary, I'll look at the vacuum tubes. The MAP sensor pipe is a very loose fit on the manifold barb.

8 hours ago, Barrykearley said:

You’ll almost certainly need the lead for this.

sure I’ve commented on your other thread on this issue -check and set TPS and check / replace the iac valve 

Cheers Barry, this is my first post regarding this issue. I'll look at these.

Those ALDL lead parts can't come fast enough now.

Andy.

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2 minutes ago, sailorbob said:

Any error codes? You can check this without diagnostic software by bridging pins A and B of the ALDL connector and counting the Check Engine Light (aka CEL) flashes.

Cheers Derek,

The "check engine" light on dash doesn't seem to be working as it doesn't light up when you turn the ignition on.

I read last night there was a repeater lamp in the engine bay relay box. I'll look into that later.

I'll look up the procedure for interpreting the flashes.

Andy.

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4 minutes ago, AndyPG said:

The "check engine" light on dash doesn't seem to be working as it doesn't light up when you turn the ignition on.

The smoking gun?  Or maybe no engine management errors?  I've seen bulbs removed by naughty people.

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British Fart to Florida, Nude to New York, Dunce to Denmark, Numpty to Newfoundland.  And Shitfaced Silly Sod to Sweden.

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14 minutes ago, Sparky said:

The smoking gun?  Or maybe no engine management errors?  I've seen bulbs removed by naughty people.

Absolutely.

17 minutes ago, sailorbob said:

The CEL illuminates for 10 seconds at 'key on' as a lamp check. Let's hope it's not been removed or taped over to hide a problem.

With the over fueling issue present, I'd have expected the CEL to be "on" so best case scenario would be a blown bulb. Next best, bulb not present.

Then there's the fueling to sort. Hopefully the repeater CEL in the engine bay is functional.

Andy

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I can only echo what has been said above, including checking for error codes by brigding the ALDL. The repeater lamp is in the boot, next to the connector and solenoids.

I started with Freescan on my SE, good readings but not so easy to go through the data (unless you write some code to plot the graphs yourself). Then switched to Espritmon and have been using that ever since. I try to do a logged run every once in a while and then go over the data when I've got a quiet moment in the office. 😉

Filip

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I have made many mistakes in my life. Buying a multiple Lotus is not one of them.

 

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11 minutes ago, Escape said:

I can only echo what has been said above, including checking for error codes by brigding the ALDL. The repeater lamp is in the boot, next to the connector and solenoids.

I started with Freescan on my SE, good readings but not so easy to go through the data (unless you write some code to plot the graphs yourself). Then switched to Espritmon and have been using that ever since. I try to do a logged run every once in a while and then go over the data when I've got a quiet moment in the office. 😉

Filip

Thanks Filip,

I'll report my findings.

Andy.

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8 minutes ago, Chillidoggy said:

Reference over-fueling, I wonder if HEGO sensor could be at fault? No doubt the scan will decide.

Definitely a major contender I think.

Just so I don't damage the ECU, how do I correctly identify pins A and B?

 

Andy.

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5 hours ago, sailorbob said:

Any error codes? You can check this without diagnostic software by bridging pins A and B of the ALDL connector and counting the Check Engine Light (aka CEL) flashes.

Hi Guys,

I double checked the dash CEL and it's definitely not working at all.

So I opened the engine bay relay box and found the repeater CEL in there.

This does come on when you turn the ignition on and stays on beyond 20 seconds.

So I turned the ignition off and installed a link between pins A and B in the engine bay ALDL socket then turned ignition on again.

Same reaction. Light comes on and stays on but doesn't flash any codes.

Any initial thoughts?

Thanks for everyone's time.

Andy.

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This was donkeys ago since I did mine this way. Fit the link, turn ignition on and watch the light. If that doesn’t work then remove the link. Turn ignition on - then fit the link with ignition on

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If the CEL is permanently on when attempting to  get the error codes I'd suspect one of the following:

1) Poor ALDL pin A & B connection or associated wiring issue. Try bridging the pins in the ALDL connector behind the glovebox before checking the wiring.

2) Memcal issue. Check the Memcal is seated properly and undamaged.

3) ECU issue. Check for any obvious component or PCB damage.

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Thanks Guys,

Tried turning the ignition on before inserting A/B link. CEL still permanently illuminated.

Tried both procedures using ALDL socket under glove box, exactly the same result, CEL permanently on.

I'll have a look inside the ECU Derek, for issues 2 and 3 in your message.

Failing that, fingers crossed that Espritmon will show something when my cable parts arrive.

Could the continuously illuminated CEL mean that there's more than one code?

 

Andy.

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No - it will flash codes separately. You simple don’t know what jiggers pokery that’s occurred in the past. You need a known working pc setup to see if you can get it comms with that ecu.

out of interest - are the rad fans running continuously?

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