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The black painted Ali Button either has or will accept an M5 thread. I 'reconditioned' mine by putting M5 plug tap in to clean the thread, then held them on a bolt in a pillar drill, filed and emery clothed them, then repainted. The O/D is a tad smaller, but no one will notice. 

If you search M5 Button Head screw on fleabay, there are no shortage of Stainless Steel options with an Allen key socket. 

For the rubber bushes, don't know of any suppliers, but I was able to be selective and find best set as I've acquired 3 screens over the decades. 

Tony 

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It’s alive !!!! Engine running , first time hadn’t seen it running until today.  Just need bigger fuel tank 

Might be someone’s engine on the forum  Tour of the Lotus factory in the 70s. 

I know everyone likes some pictures, so here are some.

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1 hour ago, Tony D said:

The black painted Ali Button either has or will accept an M5 thread. I 'reconditioned' mine by putting M5 plug tap in to clean the thread, then held them on a bolt in a pillar drill, filed and emery clothed them, then repainted. The O/D is a tad smaller, but no one will notice. 

If you search M5 Button Head screw on fleabay, there are no shortage of Stainless Steel options with an Allen key socket. 

For the rubber bushes, don't know of any suppliers, but I was able to be selective and find best set as I've acquired 3 screens over the decades. 

Tony 

Thanks Tony D. I realised i had another tailgate, managed to remove both gas strut mounting brackets, so have some that will clean up.  

Tony 

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Another one of those days where I don’t think I’ve moved forward. 
Yesterday finally got both fuel fillers in, good day.   Today, the wiring loom has been dangling down with gauges laying in the foot well. So thought I would start to tidy it up.  The engine runs , but have to hot wire fuel pump , and nothing else works.  
My knowledge of car electrics is at the dangerous level.  Notice the panel lights switch was not connected.  Easy , go and look at my spare complete dash , three wires , one red , two red with white tracer.  Back to the car , those same wires had been connected together.  Took link wire out , went to put the original wire on switch, it was missing a double terminal , just centre rivet there.  Easy solder piggy back spade on rivet or just use spare switch.  Go to spare and it’s seized solid.  Solder route then , that went good , but not enough of the rest of loom connected to see any lights yet.  
 

Tony 

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Just two questions, well for today , more to follow.  
1.  Thinking of putting the dash in, is there anything that has to be done, assembled , fitted or wired be for it goes in.  
2.  Just offered up the rear side glass , as I walked passed , the height of the glass goes 12mm above the frame.  Guess there’s a good reason for this , or I’m way offline.  
thanks everyone 

Tony

Tony 

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1 hour ago, Doris the dog said:

Just two questions, well for today , more to follow.  
1.  Thinking of putting the dash in, is there anything that has to be done, assembled , fitted or wired be for it goes in.  
2.  Just offered up the rear side glass , as I walked passed , the height of the glass goes 12mm above the frame.  Guess there’s a good reason for this , or I’m way offline.  
thanks everyone 

Tony

The main things are wiper motor/mechanism, heater fans and controls lubricated and working correctly.

The side glass fills the space beteeen the waistline and the bright roof trim. There is a thick black strip, a bit like tape, applied to form a false frame along the top and B pillar side of the glass which is around 1cm wide.

Cheers, Richard

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Taking the glass fitting a step further, am I missing any trim that may fit to the glass ? Also are these rivet / screw holes for something internal or ?

Sorry phone has reversed bottom photo 

89C24D49-6B88-4B56-A48B-45AC17659212.jpeg

F798D294-BDAD-4960-94EC-D6243B11CAEE.jpegS

Edited by Doris the dog

Tony 

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With the dash, I would check that the curtosey light switches work and that the glove box switch works. If not it is easier to test/change these with the dash out. mine looked in good nick but didn't work when i tested them (like everything else electrical on the car). The glove box switch is a bit of a tight fit and probably very hard to change with the dash in since the bottom of the glove box needs to come out and this is bolted to the dash board from beneath.

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Hi Mike, looks like I’m going to have a rummage around more , courtesy light switch, didn’t now I had one or two. And a glove box switch well !!!! 
do have a light though. 
 

295E480D-C5BA-4944-B132-F3DF10D63CBA.jpeg

Tony 

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Regarding the rivet holes, these look like they are for the bright trim piece that sits along the edge of the roof - I can't see too clearly from your picture though. The glass itself is bonded in place.

Richard

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10 minutes ago, Straker said:

Top right are number plate lights, they should have Tapered rubber plinths to make them angle towards the nr plate.

Thanks Straker ,  they will go in spares box. Think I may have seen plinths in another box.  

Tony 

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There is obviously a selection of interior lights there. You need 3 (1 in the middle, one in the back, and one in the boot. you may also have an under bonnet light of some after market design? the plunger things are the later type curtosey light switches but I think they are not very good personally since they are designed for a metal car and for them to work you need an earth connection to the chrome surround. 

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As above. Also far left could be bonnet light but it is different to mine. Bottom right is the same as my 3 interior courtesy lights (as per the era on several 70's cars.) but the manual pictures are like the black edged type. 

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Re the rivet holes - there should be a length of T-section aluminium extrusion there - on the inside of the car.  Similarly there should be a bit along the bottom of the window aperture.  It usually drops to bits on removal.  I've been trying to source a similar extrusion to make new ones.

Pete

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36 minutes ago, EXCEL V8 said:

Re the rivet holes - there should be a length of T-section aluminium extrusion there - on the inside of the car.  Similarly there should be a bit along the bottom of the window aperture.  It usually drops to bits on removal.  I've been trying to source a similar extrusion to make new ones.

Pete

Pete had a quick look and found top ones, they match with drilled holes in body. 
What is there purpose?

Tony 

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Can I just thank everyone on here for the massive help you are giving me to assemble my Elite. 
I have only had the Elite since January, never driven one , never sat in one , so my knowledge is very very limited. 
Thankyou everyone and keep safe !! I need you. 
Regards

Tony

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Tony 

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On my car, the bottom right is the boot light and the black edged lights are for the cabin (one front, one back)

Richard

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The engine bay lens on the left is the same as mine. Definitely an original item on early cars. I think it should have a chrome surround, but I may be having brain fade. I can check tomorrow in my car box of bits. It mounts on the fire wall, not too far from the washer pump. I can post a picture if you need. 

The T trims on the inside of the rear quarter light act as a edging for the interior trim panels and also fit up against the glass, bar perhaps a think line of black window adhesive / sealant. WARNING: Don't bond the rear quarter light in until you have rivitted the anodised roof rail into position. One of the very few jobs I did on my car during the "wilderness years" was bond the windows in ( I think I wanted to use the adhesive before it went too far past its sell by date). I now can't get at the fixings to secure the roof rails, so they've got to come out again 😢😢. Ironically, when I stripped the car down, the rear quarter lights literally fell out. The bond was completely shot. Now they are stuck in like the proverbial to blankets. 

In your post around mid day today, that little light that looks like a useless torch with a round front lens is a little useless torch with a round front lens. 😛😛. It mounts in the roof rail running between B posts and shines down onto the centre switch panel to illuminate it -, or doesn't as the case may be. Not the best example of Chapman design detailing. 

Tony

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