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Just bought two Lotus Elite Tailgate/Boot Gas struts from sgs-engineering.com.

There code GSC2620

All in including VAT and delivery for £36.16 if you are interested.

 

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It’s alive !!!! Engine running , first time hadn’t seen it running until today.  Just need bigger fuel tank 

Might be someone’s engine on the forum  Tour of the Lotus factory in the 70s. 

I know everyone likes some pictures, so here are some.

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10 Kg is a mighty pull!  My Merc has a "soft close" boot - I wonder how it works - you hear it whirring away as it closes.  Might investigate further!

Pete

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I recall the force was very dependant on getting as close to a straight line as possible for the cable to work in. Too much of a radius, and the pull force started to climb ridiculously. One problem was that it was impossible to eliminate the last tight curve to the lock pull. 

(Just thinking aloud as I type, maybe I could fit another 1:1 90 degree lever under the latch, or modify the cable and take it around a roller!! - uhmmm - got me thinking now. Oh dear.) 

Tony

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The problem is when pulling down the front cable it needs to be vertically in line with the bracket otherwise the force exerted is much greater. 

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Mine doesn’t take much pulling, but I’ve not fitted the rubber seal yet , another item on the list.  
I have three door seals , how does I fit on the top corner 90 degree near roll bar. Do they have to be mitred. 

Tony 

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I bought  new door seals from Christopher Neil's (that dates the restoration) a long time ago. It's one long length, so just yesterday I had to cut and mitre it. I'm thinking the super glue will be out at some point to at least join the O section . I might try putting something inside the O section at the corner just to help the strength.

Tony

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Super glue doesn't work, the only glue that does work for door seals is

3M SUPER WEATHER STRIP AND GASKET ADHESIVE 08001 5 OZ TUBE

It's on eBay for around 10 quid.

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  • 4 weeks later...

After taking time out from the Elite to fit another engine and gearbox in my Sprinter I’m now back on the project again. 
First job ream door bushes. 

Tony 

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Welcome back. Good to know it was only a short term distraction. Some of my "distractions" have run into years of stop time on my car 😢

Tony

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On 06/06/2020 at 21:43, SimonOmeara said:

Super glue doesn't work

I found superglue works a treat on rubber actually. Did my seals and never a problem. Just to add to confusion.

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Right today it’s time to start to fit drivers door. New hinge pin and bushes fitted and reamed. All good. 
As i didn’t take the doors apart I’ve got no knowledge of the amount of shims that go behind door mounting brackets. Is there an amount that gets it somewhere close , as I just have the beam and have not fitted the door skin , or should I assemble skin first. 
Thanks for any help you can give me. 
regards

Tony

Tony 

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Beam first, then skin, then window frame.  Is the door catch still on the B-post?  If you temporarily fit the latch that will give you a starting point for the height of the beam at the B-post, but It will be lower when all the weight is on the beam.  Don't forget the door aperture limiting strap.

Pete

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Fix top hinge plate directly to body (no shim). Use as much shim as you have up to 4mm behind bottom hinge. Truth is, there is enough movement on the door shell to get alignment without any shim, but shimming bottom helps keep window frame tight to seal and better clearance as door opens at the A post. 

Fit the B post striker and fit catch to the beam, then fit beam to car pushing as far forwards as you can before tightening bolts to body. 

Next, I trial fitted the window frame, aiming for consistent gap of about 10 - 12mm between frame and body aperture without door seal. You use shims behind any combination of the 5 off M6 bolts to set the gap(you'll probably have some places like near top of A post that are less than 10mm even with no shims, but don't worry about this. Now remove window frame, remembering how much and where you had shims. 

Now remove latch from beam, fit the door shell and replace catch (it's fiddly, but will go in when you find right angle). Use the 4 off M6 bolts to set body alignment. CAREFULLY : When you first close door, watch door leading edge carefully as it passes wing rear edge - it's likely to be VERY close to clashing and chipping paint😕. Now refit the window frame (with suitable shimming), which I did initially without worrying about the glass (cos you're probably going to repeat all the above steps 3 or 4 times before you feel you are happy with everything. 😊😊

When you are ready to fit the glass, drop it into the door before putting frame into position. Another fiddly job, but you have to just keep jiggling it around until it goes. Then fit the window motors and pray all is free enough the windows will drive smoothly. 

It's a fun job - not- but rewarding when it comes together. 

IIRC, you car is one of the earliest produced. Don't be surprised if when you fit the door shell and it's aligned with the body nicely, there is daylight all along the bottom of the door to the door seal. Both sides on my car had at least 5mm gaps, which I'm convinced must have been like it since the factory build. I built the bottom of my doors up which is covered to some extent on my resto thread on the other site. 

Good luck🤞🤞🤞,

Tony

 

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Thanks Pete and Tony D. For the information. 
Had to stop working on it again as my 96 year old mother had the dentist round at her home to start making new dentures after hospital lost hers.  
Never a dull moment. 
Back on the door tomorrow. 

Tony 

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@Doris the dog

Slightly off topic, but was your mum in the N&N?  my mother in law 'lost' hers in there recently after an in patient op. Cant help with the door though apart from saying it took ages to line the door up via adjusting the striker plate and the hinge bolts.

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42 minutes ago, Angus553 said:

@Doris the dog

Slightly off topic, but was your mum in the N&N?  my mother in law 'lost' hers in there recently after an in patient op. Cant help with the door though apart from saying it took ages to line the door up via adjusting the striker plate and the hinge bolts.

Hi Angus , yep NNUH, didn’t know they were lost until she arrived home. Had to use the power of radio to find a dentist who could help. Also if you haven’t already you need to speak to patient services, they could fund the new dentures after they go through all the patients notes.  

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Tony 

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On 28 May 2020 at 18:02, Doris the dog said:

Slowly getting into the wiring on the Elite.  Making good several poor connections, and think rear lights incorrectly wired to what I think should be brake lights.  

How's the wiring going, Lotus seem to have their own unique way of doing things....

Have just completed installing the engine and trying to fire it up 😂 😂 😂 Does anyone know what this is....pic attached. I haven't touched any of the wiring since I bought the car. Trying to figure out what goes where but having trouble, car will not fire! Have put on new coil, new dizzy cap, new leads and spark plug...rebuilt SU fuel pump so that is now working.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

image.jpeg

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That's what I thought Rob, going to bin it...

Another question. With the ignition on, I can turn over the engine and the fuel pump ticks away...the clock works and the heater blowers come on, the volts gauge shows signs of life...other than that nothing else is working no dash lights whatsoever, nothing. I have had a look at the ignition barrel and think that is wired correctly.

I thing the wiring gremlins have been about somewhere, Can't figure out why no dash lights not even the ignition light, any help anyone. 😞

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Sorry if I am stating the obvious but have you got 12V out of all fuse ways, also you could run a temporary earth to the electrical “area”  that you are working on. If I can find a wiring diagram I will have a look tonight, maybe able to point you in the right direction

cheers

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Thanks Phil, I think my biggest problem might be the voltage stabiser at the front of the car, that the wiring diagrams mention. They all have green wires going to them, I don't and they are completely different colours. I also have that stupid alternator regulator ( which I am going to bin) and a few wires which I do not know where they go.

The car is nearly finished and it seems a shame to stall at this late stage.

 

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The ignition light has one wire coming from the alternator and one from the 12volt circuit behind the dash (should be green wire). When the ignition is on and the alternator not outputting, then the light is on. When the alternator voltage rises then the light goes out. If your not getting an ignition light then i suspect the 12volt circuit in the dash is not being fed.

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