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Hazard, front and rear fog light buttons - not working or lit. - Interior/Exterior/Lights/Glass/Alarms/ICE/HVAC - The Lotus Forums #ForTheOwners Jump to content


Hazard, front and rear fog light buttons - not working or lit.


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  • Gold FFM

All 3 buttons on the RHS of the binnacle have decided to stop working ('95 S4). They're not backlit when depressed and have no other effect. Indicators and other lights working fine.

Any pointers as how best to diagnose the problem?

Maybe it's just too cold today? :)

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Either too cold, or too humid, or too dry, or too warm.  😂

 

More seriously do the buttons have a backlight at all when presses, or wiggled in the ON position?  If not, its not likely the switches.

Edited by CarBuff

Atwell Haines

'88 Esprit

Succasunna, NJ USA

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  • Gold FFM

Thanks all!

First off, noob mistake, the 2 fog light buttons are working fine.

There was a 30A fuse in slot 15 (Hazards and brake lights) that had blown. Should be a 15A. Replaced with a 15A, Hazards worked for a bit, then that fuse blew.

Maybe the brake light switch (on the brake pedal) that has been on its last legs for a bit (couple of new ones on order from SJS, to be safe).

Also read somewhere that pressing the Hazard button on/off multiple times can have a positive effect (cleans the contacts?).

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  • Gold FFM

Removed the brake light switch, new 15A fuse, Hazards fine. Brake light switch back in, depress brake pedal, pop.

Will see if the new brake pedal switch cures things once it arrives. Hopefully will be £3.93p well spent :) (though how a dodgy switch can cause >15A is beyond me, having said that I'm particularly inexperienced in these matters...)    

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Pressing the Hazard switch was a 'thing' for older British cars to assure that turn signals worked.  Not so necessary, for Stevens cars.

 

++++++++

You need to troubleshoot with a VOM meter. Got a short to ground (earth), somewhere.  I'd inspect the wiring in the boot as a first step, look for pinched wires.

  • Like 1

Atwell Haines

'88 Esprit

Succasunna, NJ USA

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  • Gold FFM
3 minutes ago, RobinB5 said:

@Sparky, considering the 'pretty woman' brake light conversion has been done, might this have any bearing on what bulbs to check?

Yeah there’s 4 not two 👍

  • Haha 1

Only here once

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  • Gold FFM

Right, considering I don't really know what I'm doing, I've done the following:

Checked for pinched wires. Nothing looks pinched, though to be honest I've never seen a pinched wire.

Remove all 4 bulbs that light when braking, fuse goes pop when brake pedal depressed.

Put all bulbs back, remove the brake switch, short its female connector with a bit of wire, fuse goes pop.

Running out of fuses.

Will order some new bulbs, but they light up fine when the lights/fog lights are on.

As you might have guessed, I'm towards the 'lower end' of car maintenance experience. Comments and advice welcome, as is your patience :)

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  • Gold FFM

Decided to first detach some connectors, see if it could be hunted down.

Detached the rear lamp clusters individually, nope.

Detached the entire rear lamp cluster, nope.

As the ABS isn't there anymore, will remove the 2 wires that go to it from the brake switch and see if that has any affect...

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  • Gold FFM

Progress - of a kind..

Detaching the spade connector on the bottom of the gas strut (for the CHMSL that isn't fitted on this S4) stops the short and the rear brake lights work fine when the ignition is off, but the rear indicators come on (not flashing) at the same time though, and quite dim.

With the gas strut spade connector on, resistance between the non-supply side of the fuse connection to gnd is 0.8 ohm, with the connector removed, it's 1.8 ohm. At 12V, and the spade connector on, the 0.8 ohm might cause a 15A fuse to blow (which it does), but not a 30A one (which it does as well).

Any pointers as to why the rear indicator lights come on with the brake lights with the gas strut connector removed?

Anything else I should look at to further diagnose?

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