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stevefh

Method for back flushing S4 heater

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Hi all, someone please post the step by step method for back flushing the heater in my S4,I don’t believe all esprits  are the same.Thanks for any replies.

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https://www.lotustalk.com/threads/flushing-heater-matrix-with-clr-worked.181850/#post-2543178

 

Everyone is encouraged to turn up the heat a little at least once per drive.  Most heater flow issues begin because the coolant never 'flows' while we are driving.

I keep our heater control pointed at the 5 o'clock position...enough for the heater coolant to flow, but not enough to create noticeable warmth in the summer. 🤗

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Atwell Haines

'88 Esprit

Succasunna, NJ USA

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Does anyone know for sure the metal the heater matrix is made of  and any other metal used in the section to be flushed i.e.the water valve.

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59 minutes ago, stevefh said:

Does anyone know for sure the metal the heater matrix is made of  and any other metal used in the section to be flushed i.e.the water valve.

Makes no difference if you 'final flush' the heater with water (non-recirculating) for a while, as a final step.

++++++++

On some new Hondas, heater matrices were partially clogging as a result of  improper cleaning of the engines before assembly.  The official dealer 'fix' was to circulate CLR inside the heaters for 90 minutes or more, then flush with water for another 15 minutes.


Atwell Haines

'88 Esprit

Succasunna, NJ USA

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Thanks for reply. I had a reply from lotus archive but they had no information on the metal used in the heater matrix.The reason I want to know is that if the CLR has time to remove deposits surely it has time to “eat” any aluminium present and I don’t want to cause a leak .Does anyone know the brand name (Uk) of a CLR that doesn’t have any effect on aluminium or any other metals.

Does anyone know the matrix and water valve metals? Sanj?

 I have used de-ionised in this S4 for 25 years but I used radiator leak sealant about 6 months ago !

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1 hour ago, stevefh said:

The reason I want to know is that if the CLR has time to remove deposits surely it has time to “eat” any aluminium present and I don’t want to cause a leak .Does anyone know the brand name (Uk) of a CLR that doesn’t have any effect on aluminium or any other metals.

 

The CLR type stuff (we used a similar product named ZAP! on two different S4s, I got it from the wife's housecleaning cupboard 😆) hasn't caused any long term issues or other leaks, it's been 3 & 5 years since we used them, once on an S4 heater, the other on an S4s chargecooler system.  The clogs are more dissoluble (is that a word?) than the aluminum, no matter HOW you spell the element AL.😅

 

This is a picture of a chargecooler hose from that first job. Looks as if it swallowed a rodent! Just as practice, we scraped the clog with a screwdriver and 30 minutes of ZAP cleaned it out OK, but we replaced that CC hose just as Good Practice.

p9090025-jpg.440473

 

More pics here: https://www.lotustalk.com/threads/chargecooler-pipe-leaking.253849/post-3477025

++++++++++++

Again,  the key is to properly flush with clean water to remove any residual CRL, then refill with the correct coolant.  After that, keep the coolant circulating through the heater as I mentioned above.


Atwell Haines

'88 Esprit

Succasunna, NJ USA

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The heater matrix is copper/brass, the valve body is copper tubes in a steel support structure.

Cheers 

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Thanks Steve, It’s not getting any better.CLR website says causes pitting on aluminium, copper ,brass....no alloys.......2minutes!

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Citric acid is slow in use, but safe.

though it needs some temperature for reaction. 

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White vinegar is regarded as a good cleaning agent.

It can affect aluminium if left in contact long enough but in my experience, that would need to be literally weeks.

For a one hour flush followed by a good post flush with clean water, I doubt anything would be harmed.

Or, how about one of the many aluminium safe central heating boiler cleaning/flushing products made by Sentinal and Fernox plus others.

Andy.

Edited by AndyPG
typo

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