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front crank oil seal of 907 engine - replaceable with engine in situ? - Engine/Ancilliaries - The Lotus Forums Jump to content
marode

front crank oil seal of 907 engine - replaceable with engine in situ?

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Hi Friends!

I am in the process of fitting a new head gasket, water pump and other stuff on my S2 Esprit. While I'm there... I have taken out the cam belt tensioner, the water pump and therefore the aux pulley, So "lots" of space now. Has someone ever changed the front crank oil seal with the engine still in the car? I had changed the rear seal years ago while I had the gearbox off, the front oil seal might still be original. I have no bad oil leaks, just thinking of "while I'm there..". Any practical knowledge is very welcome.

cheers

Matthias

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There was a thread on here recently which showed a neat way to remove the seal in-situ, drilling into the seal, and using a couple self tappers I think. Have to search for it though.

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It's tight but possible on later Esprits, so should be doable on an S1 as well. If it ain't leaking, I would leave it alone though. Wouldn't be the first time a new seal leaks more than the old one it replaces...

Edited: to get it out you can indeed put screw in it and pull on those, works on most seals of that type and avoids the risk of scratching the metal seat.

Filip


I have made many mistakes in my life. Buying a multiple Lotus is not one of them.

 

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Problem with changing the oil seal in a space challenged environment is getting it in squarely. I did mine in-situ by purchasing a non-original but high quality oil seal, NOK or Corteco brand I believe, then machining a tool to press that in squarely.

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Eric, that sounds reasonable. Also what others said, I may better leave it as it is as long as it's not leaking. It's just such a litarally pain to get there, that made me want to leave everything in best nick. I have indeed used the screw-in oil-seal-trick on crank seals from 2 stroke mopeds, works a treat. Eric, would you hand over that machined tool to me?Eric, that sounds reasonable. Also what others said, I may better leave it as it is as long as it's not leaking. It's just such a litarally pain to get there, that made me want to leave everything in best nick. I have used the screw in oil seal trick on crank seals from 2 stroke mopeds, works a treat. Eric, would you hand over that machined tool to me?

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Isn't the front seal in an ali cast section that unbolts (relatively) easily? The crank sprocket would have to come off anyway, so I cannot see much benefit in trying to do it attached to the engine.

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1 hour ago, andydclements said:

Isn't the front seal in an ali cast section that unbolts (relatively) easily?

That's basically my question! I wasn't quite sure after looking in the the service parts book and I can't see much as long as the cast section is on the car. So you think I can just unbolt the ali cast part after pulling the crank pulley? That would make things and decisions way easier!

 

IMG_7294.jpg

Edited by marode

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Yes I have seen that, I hope that also applies for a series 2 Esprit. My part manual shows the casting without a seal on the next page. 

IMG_7295.jpg

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18 minutes ago, marode said:

Yes I have seen that, I hope that also applies for a series 2 Esprit. My part manual shows the casting without a seal on the next page. 

Be careful though, it's been on there a long time & they break easily if you're not. :wallbash:


Cheers,

John W

http://jonwatkins.co.uk

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When I did the job on my car, I didn't dare remove the camshaft seal housing for fear I would not be able to re-centre it again if it wasn't dowel located. Since the seal wasn't leaking, but I still wanted to change it anyway, I merely replaced the seal in-situ.

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4 hours ago, marode said:

Eric, that sounds reasonable. Also what others said, I may better leave it as it is as long as it's not leaking. It's just such a litarally pain to get there, that made me want to leave everything in best nick. I have indeed used the screw-in oil-seal-trick on crank seals from 2 stroke mopeds, works a treat. Eric, would you hand over that machined tool to me?Eric, that sounds reasonable. Also what others said, I may better leave it as it is as long as it's not leaking. It's just such a litarally pain to get there, that made me want to leave everything in best nick. I have used the screw in oil seal trick on crank seals from 2 stroke mopeds, works a treat. Eric, would you hand over that machined tool to me?

It nothing more than a nylon pipe bored D+0.25 crankshaft diameter. The surface in contact with the seal needs to be perpendicular to the bore. It would be too expensive sending something that cheap across the world

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Yes it can be done in situ. There is a special tool to make sure the seal goes in square. I was lent one by a friendly Lotus garage to do the job many years ago.

Pete


Pete '79 S2

LEW Miss September 2009

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14 minutes ago, peteyg said:

There is a special tool to make sure the seal goes in square.

are we talking about "the seal goes evenly in the ali casting" or is the tool used to center the casting with the seal itself on the crank? I may have some language difficulties here.

 

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11 minutes ago, marode said:

are we talking about "the seal goes evenly in the ali casting" or is the tool used to center the casting with the seal itself on the crank? I may have some language difficulties here.

 

Squarely into the casing. There is more latitude for being off-centre than off-perpendicular.

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What Eric said. To make sure the seal goes in squarely.

38 minutes ago, marode said:

are we talking about "the seal goes evenly in the ali casting" or is the tool used to center the casting with the seal itself on the crank? I may have some language difficulties here.

 

 


Pete '79 S2

LEW Miss September 2009

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22 hours ago, marode said:

 I have no bad oil leaks, just thinking of "while I'm there..". Any practical knowledge is very welcome.

The fact you've had no leaks from the front news means you also wouldn't have to worry about the centering of the seal housing if it hasn't been removed. Just make sure you get the new seal in squarely.

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Well, thanks so far for all your hints. This forum is always very helpful! I'm still considering taking the engine and gearbox out, I also wanted to change all hoses in the snakepit and change the water and heater aluminium pipes (I know they have to be pulled from the front). Also I'm still struggling to get the head off, manifold is still on, can't get all of its bolts. Either I try to lift the engine a bit after undoing the lh engine mount or I take the hole thing out from the bottom. One bolt is sheared and still in the block at the water pump (has been there before in that state, one of the previous owners left it like that). All in all lots of things to do that are hard to reach and hard to get accurate cleaned and sealed within the limited space.

The thing is: I'm doing all that stuff in my garage on stands. So I'm not quite sure what's more annoying.

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