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Fuel pipe replacement

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I rather foolishly forgot to replace the fuel pipe when the engine was out of my Eclat so I am wondering if it is possible to thread a length of copper tube from one end to save a lot of dismantling. I am confident that I can fabricate any fittings needed and was considering using either 8 or 10 mm.

I have asked this before but had no response from anyone doing a similar job.

thanks Peter

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Yes, I have done this with the body on and off. I replaced the pipe with the body off and then decided after I had the body back on that the replacement pipe would not be ethanol compatible and so changed it again from the fuel tank to the fuel lock valve on the chassis next the the gearbox. 

The technique that worked for me was to use some copper brake pipe that had a barb created on one end. This pushed into the new hose and then could be used to thread the new hose from the rear to the front through all of the holes in the chassis cross bracing. I also have a cheap endoscope that connects to a smart phone so I could check that it actually went through the holes and not left rubbing against the prop shaft.

It was areal pain in the backside and something you would only want to do once.

I hope this helps you.

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Check out my thread on my elite - sorry, didn't see your earlier question.

I replaced my pipe which has lead to all sorts of fun - I used braided ethanol safe rubber hose but this was a larger diameter (not by much) than the original.

Inside the main beam of the chassis there are two holes that the pipe has to feed through - this keeps it away from the prop shaft. I'd assume the OD of the copper pipe would be very similar to the original plastic pipe so it should be possible to fit but I have no idea about the rights and wrongs of using copper pipe in this situation.

Good luck

Is the price for that bit in Yen or £?

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I'd be tempted to use a plastic-coated aluminium hard line like the stuff sold by Think Automotive.  Easy to terminate with their flare-less fittings.  Technically copper can "work harden" and crack with vibration but I don't think it's really an issue. I've used stainless-braided convoluted PTFE hose (Icore ProGold) for my rebuild (I'm a bit paranoid about fuel safety) but it meant making the semi-circular holes in the chassis baffle plates a bit bigger with a Dremel.  I also hate the fact that the fuel hose/tubing is not fixed properly to the chassis so can still chafe.  I've added P-clips at regular intervals as well but this can only be done easily with the body off.  


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