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Headlamp pod mechanism refurb - Interior/Exterior/Lights/Glass/Alarms/ICE/HVAC - The Lotus Forums #ForTheOwners Jump to content


Headlamp pod mechanism refurb


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I thought I'd have a look inside the headlamp motors to check the state of the torque pins etc.

I'd rather replace them before they fail at an inconvenient moment.

They were all ok, albeit very slightly out of round, which was strange seeing as the motors had clearly never been apart.

So, two questions.........

I've got a small machine shop with a lathe, can I make some new ones using some nylon stock? I haven't got any delrin.

Question two, what limits the motor movement? Does the motor arm simply stall against the stops and wait for the timer to switch it off?

I was expecting the motor to have inbuilt miro-switches to stop it at the end of travel etc.

Cheers, Andy.

 

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In the USA, those plastic (Delrin?) 'pucks' are cheap as chips, to coin a phrase.

Aftermarket vendors such as Dorman make them for 80s-90s Corvettes, Pontiac Firebirds, and Pontiac Fieros. This vendor has replacements and even METAL parts for the headlamp motors...don't know if shipping would kill the deal for you.

http://www.rodneydickman.com/

 

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The motors stop turning when the pods hit the limiting stops, and amperage draw increases. The control for that is inside the left wing.

s-l1600.jpg

 

If the pods don't sit flush, you can twist the rubber stop pads 90 degrees...they have probably taken a 'set'.

Atwell Haines

'88 Esprit

Succasunna, NJ USA

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2 hours ago, AndyPG said:

I'd rather replace them before they fail at an inconvenient moment.

FYI, if the pods fail to lift up when you do need headlights, they're easy to lock in the up position with a cabletie.

But always better to prevent rather than remedy. 😉 If import from the US proves too expensive, SJ also has all the parts.

Filip

I have made many mistakes in my life. Buying a multiple Lotus is not one of them.

 

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Thanks Guys.

TBH, they'll take me about a minute each to knock up on my lathe.

Just wondered if anyone had any concerns with alternative materials like nylon, acetal or PTFE, all of which I have on the shelf.

Always interested to hear folks opinions on stuff like this before I go wading in.

 

2 hours ago, CarBuff said:

The motors stop turning when the pods hit the limiting stops, and amperage draw increases. The control for that is inside the left wing.

Thanks for that info CarBuff. Wondered how it was done.

 

2 hours ago, CarBuff said:

If the pods don't sit flush, you can twist the rubber stop pads 90 degrees...they have probably taken a 'set'.

I had noticed they were quite indented. Great tip, Thanks again.

 

Andy.

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It's been debated before, but I'm still not sure what the exact purpose of those rollers is. They allow some misalignment between the mechanism and the gear, to cope with the forces when moving the pods. And they will absorb (some of) the shock load. At the cost of adding a wear/failure item. A shaft through the housing with a bearing at both ends and the gear attached with a keyway or splines seems like a more robust solution, just not what GM had in mind apparently. 

I'd guess any material that has about the same hardness will do. The rollers don't actually rotate, so I don't see the need for PTFE or such. I dis a repair with pieces of (soft) wood once, because that was what I had available. It allowed me to continue to use the car until the proper rollers were delivered, but I was surprised at the level of wear in just a few weeks. So chose something reasonably strong, but not too hard so it wont eat into the gear or drive cog.

Filip

I have made many mistakes in my life. Buying a multiple Lotus is not one of them.

 

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8 hours ago, CarBuff said:

You're welcomed...I can be fanatical about 'alignment'.   Are your door handles closing flush?

LOL...........we're on the same wave length CarBuff.

Mine were tilted in a little so I removed the little rubber stop and bonded a small disc of bike tyre inner tube rubber to its surface to make it thicker.

Gave it a quick dress up and they now sit perfect. They looked pretty duff tilted inwards.

24 minutes ago, Escape said:

They allow some misalignment between the mechanism and the gear, to cope with the forces when moving the pods.

Thanks Filip. I've seen similar mechanisms in certain drive couplings. Protects the gear teeth by allowing some shock absorbing movement when the pod actuator arms hit the stops. I'll knock some up out of white nylon rod.

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1 hour ago, andydclements said:

I think the delrin's main property here is that when compressed the surfaces doesn't break up, so as long as the nylon would remain intact then I guess it's OK. Is Nylon softer and more likely to break up? 

Hi Andy,

It appears that Delrin (acetal homopolymer) is actually stronger than nylon although it probably wouldn't be prone to breaking up any time soon.

The original items looked ok for some further service so I've put them back for now.

They were easy enough to get at so I might look at them again in a year or two.

Good to inspect though and add a little fresh grease to the gears.

Two of the push rod rose joints needed replacing so I've got them on order.

Very happy with the headlamps and a good lesson in their operation.

Andy.

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