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Interior & door lights not turning off & some more


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Hey! New to the forum!

My name is Jarle, I am from Norway. Had a lot of Italian cars over the years (maybe they had me as well :), wanted an Esprit for many years.

Bought a 1988 Turbo last autumn, just finished servicing it and getting it ready for this season.

Changed oil, filters, upper ball joints etc. Normal stuff.

Got one annoying thing, and that is the interior & door lights are not turning off when car is closed.

Checked the movement of the two door swithces, does not turn anything off when depressed.

Are there other switches in the system? I cannot find any switches on the boot or trunk. Are they hidden or obvious?

If obvious I guess mine doesn't have them and one of the door switched should be the culprit.

 

I also got a complete engine with my car, planning to upgrade, overhaul and EFI it.

Want something in the 300+ range in it. An upgrade plan for something like that would be nice.

Thinking, forged pistons, porting, balancing, modern turbo and perhaps a mid range aftermarket ECU (Reccomandations?).

SC91678_FramSide.jpg

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4 hours ago, Giniw said:

Hi and welcome to you @CharlieA!

Well the 910 engine already has aluminium alloy forged pistons (and liners) so you can probably skip that!

If they can handle 300hp I'm happy. But if that is on the edge I'll buy a suitable set.

Liners will stay I guess unless, they show something on inspection.

Thanks for the info!

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7 hours ago, sailorbob said:

It should be on the relay / fuse mounting bracket in the front boot, the left hand row (when viewed from the drivers seat) and closest to the fusebox. It may possibly have a label with the part number A082M6220F on it.

Problem is at least temporarily solved, though not very satisfyingly.

I found the yellow delay relay, removed it, but nothing happened.

The lights where still on all the time. It was obvious the former owner had fiddled with it though.

It had a bit of die electric grease on it. Anyway, checked a few of the fuses and also had a look at the connections to the left door switch.

Suddenly everything worked. At this stage I have no idea what I touched to solve it.

Will have to wait until it stops working again.

What does this system contain? Switches. delay relay and another releay, or is it more to it?

Appreciate your help!

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As for the forged pistons, on second thought my workshop manual describes the pistons for the charge cooled version, not sure about the 1988 version? It might be different! I have no doubt someone will confirm whether it's right or not.

Edited by Giniw
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Hi Jarle,

First things first, upgrade the brakes if they haven’t been done already!! Main options are PNM (Hispec) or AP calipers both with larger discs. Looks like you have later wheels on so should have a few possibilities.

IMHO conversion to fuel injection transforms the 88 turbo. Personally I would choose an ecu with fully sequential ignition and fit coil packs. I wish I had gone for the omex 710 over the 600 but you live and learn.

If you do end up rebuilding the engine then I would take the opportunity to increase the capacity up to 2.5.

Alternatively you could go down the “bolt on” route for performance and only rebuild when something gives up.

Typical starting point is charge cooling (CC) with an electric pump. Go for the biggest charge cooler and rad you can as you really only want to do this job once.

You could then up the boost in the ECU (if fitted) or through a boost controller.

I managed to get 280bhp out of my 88 carb turbo with larger jets, a standard SE chargecooler, greddy boost controller and omex 200 ignition ecu. Ended up converting to fuel injection as I found tuning the carbs properly between idle and main jets was getting to be a pain.

Next on the list is a decent mandrel bent exhaust at least 3” in diameter.

Then a replacement turbo - a few options here depending on your budget but needs to be done in conjunction with a charge cooler and exhaust to get the benefit. Worth noting that the choice of turbo could change the size of the outlet that the exhaust bolts to so make sure you factor it in.

Modifying the intake tract and plenum helps get more air in but again I would suggest this is done after everything else.

Search for a thread along the lines of 412bhp...that will do nicely by ”Changes”. It will show you the art of the possible.

also

alunox manifold with efr 6258-g twin scroll turbo by mark kassim.

Other nice upgrades are:

S300 springs and adjustable dampers, LED headlights, and maybe a front splitter to stop the nose rising at speed.

It’s a slippery slope this modifying game but good luck buddy and enjoy the ride 😁.

Cheers

Chris

 

 

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(now if I am being honest I find it may be a pity to add a charge cooler and replace the carburettors by an injection system since all this actually already exists on later models. There are not so much Esprit of each variety, so ...)

Edited by Giniw
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Giniw, valid point mate and I would have traded up to a later model if:

I hadn’t done so much work to the car (things that would have to be done on a later model as well). 

It was economically viable (more manageable splitting up work per modification than having the capital to buy a younger car outright).

I wasn’t so emotionally attached to her.

Cheers

Chris

 

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Thanks for the tips, I will go for a mid level approach here.

Like I said I have a spare engine I can do this too. Will keep the old carbed engine and everything as is. It is rebuilt and in very good nick.

This is also something I will do on the side, while enjoying the car as it is!

I do not want to do irreversible changes, meaning if I want to reverse this I just drop in the old engine with carbs.

This way the car really just looses it's originality temporarily.

300hp will be more than enough, might not even need chargecooler for that with a proper EFI? Will test this while building the engine.

I have a very tuned Maserati Biturbo, spent way to much time and money on that, so I know the slippery slope you talk about :)

The front brakes though are a bit puny, is there a mid level upgrade availble here? With 300hp I really don't need crazy big brakes either.

Appreciate your thoughts everybody!

 

 

 

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14 hours ago, CharlieA said:

What does this system contain? Switches. delay relay and another releay, or is it more to it?

It is pretty basic; each door lamp is switched to gnd by its respective door switch and the interior lamp is switched to gnd by its switch. All three lamps are switched to gnd by the interior lamp delay unit.

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24 minutes ago, sailorbob said:

It is pretty basic; each door lamp is switched to gnd by its respective door switch and the interior lamp is switched to gnd by its switch. All three lamps are switched to gnd by the interior lamp delay unit.

Ok, thanks. So in reality it's either switches or that relay that is the culprit.

I am suspecting the left switch was stuck or something.

Thanks for the clarification.

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7 hours ago, sailorbob said:

For all three lamps to be illuminated the culprit has to be the interior lamp delay unit as the grounds from the individual switches are not commoned together.

Good evening!

So tonight the lights where stuck on again.

Tried to remove the relay, but funny enough all lights are stuck on anyway.

Can I measure\test the delay relay in any way?

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I was wrong when I said before the interior lamp delay unit must be the culprit. There are PUR/WHT wires from the door switches and the interior lamp switch that are commoned at the interior lamp delay unit socket. This means if either door switch is faulty and shorting to ground the lamps will illuminate. I would check those next.

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13 hours ago, sailorbob said:

I was wrong when I said before the interior lamp delay unit must be the culprit. There are PUR/WHT wires from the door switches and the interior lamp switch that are commoned at the interior lamp delay unit socket. This means if either door switch is faulty and shorting to ground the lamps will illuminate. I would check those next.

Ok, I consider the problem to be solved.

I found out the culprit was the one on the right, not left.

The movement on both seemed a bit notchy, so I lubed them up and put them in again.

I also tightened the right one up as hard as I could to get a better squeeze vs the door.

Seems to work for now, will order a new one if it is still erratic.

Anyway, love it when there is any easy solution to things.

Appreciate everyones thoughts and views!

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Welcome to TLF Jarle. :welcome:

When I was doing some work on my S4, I noticed the door light on the closed passenger to come on when the driver door was opened.

The same thing happened when I did the reverse. Studying the wiring diagram, I worked it out to all be on a common wiring system.

My suggestion was going to be to check both door switches and remake their earths.

I wonder who put the S4 wing on your car?

You should duck over to the Introductions area and say hi in these as well. :) 

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All we know is that when they stop making this, we will be properly, properly sad.Jeremy Clarkson on the Esprit.

Opinions are like armpits. Everyone has them, some just stink more than others.

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On 14/03/2020 at 02:03, ramjet said:

Welcome to TLF Jarle. :welcome:

When I was doing some work on my S4, I noticed the door light on the closed passenger to come on when the driver door was opened.

The same thing happened when I did the reverse. Studying the wiring diagram, I worked it out to all be on a common wiring system.

My suggestion was going to be to check both door switches and remake their earths.

I wonder who put the S4 wing on your car?

You should duck over to the Introductions area and say hi in these as well. :) 

Thanks! Will do the introductions, thanks for the tips.

Currently the light is working perfectly, and have been for a couple days.

So seems the problem is solved.

The prior owner mounted the S4 Wing. I have the old one as well!

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I believe chargecooled engines had forged pistons.

I also believe that once you find out how fast and well the Esprit drives, you'll want bigger better brakes.

I spoke to lotusbits some time ago regarding tuning carb'ed engiens, and they have plenty of suggestions. They do 300Hp or more on their own cars/engines 2,2; 2,5Liter. But all of the suppliers well known, can supply you with what you want.

You may want to look into refining the cylinderhead a little, with better internals such as springs and followers, porting, valvejob and adjustable cam timing.

Personally, if I were to tune a carb'ed 910 engine, I'd go for a chargecooler installation (and electric pump), plus an uprated three row radiator in front, plus shift the original fans to 3 spal fans which are way more efficient and does not draw as heavily the amp as the original ones.

Really looking forward to hear from you how you find the speed and steering of your Esprit standard or tuned, compared to your Maserati biturbo.

Right now, I am changing all the remaining bushings on my 1990 Turbo SE, and I am surprised how sloppy some of them are. So in goes Lotac poly ones for a hopefully longer lifespan with the same shore/firmness. And especially the two outer front arb bushings that I undid/drilled/molested out yesterday: totally soft. In goes harder purple ones from sj. So, did you also do a bushing hob? if not, then youmay want to do so, combined witha full geo setting. Then go enjoy, once the spring is here with hopefully less viruses.

Regarding the standard carb'ed engine and a tuend efi engine: you may think about having a parallel electric wireing complete, so it's less of a hassle to switch over? Or in other words, how do you plan to do this specific job?

Anyway, sounds like a fun plan, and surely better to have the extra engine to work on.

Kind regards,

jacques

Nobody does it better - than Lotus ;)

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