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Hi All,

I've had the door cards off on my '90 SE to fix the electric mirror switches and adjust the electric window runners. All went well and now working great.

I had previously removed a badly installed Cobra alarm/immobiliser and made good all the cut wires. A pair of Cobra wires went into the driver's door to the central locking loom.

I have now removed these wires and seem to be left with three central locking related connectors which don't fit each other.

There's a black plug with 5 wires from the central lock motor,  then the loom has a white socket with three wires and a white socket with two wires.

Is there something missing from inside the driver's door which allows these to connect together?

Maybe someone has a wiring diagram which might help me get it back together?

Cheers, Andy.

 

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I used the wiring diagram to reconnect the CL motor switch wires in the driver's door. After additionally fixing a bad terminal connection, near the CL module under the front bonnet, all now work

  • Gold FFM

Here you go. Not sure about the different connectors, it's been some years since I played around with the CDL on my previous SE (which had an aftermarket remote system fitted).

Filip

CDL.pdf

I have made many mistakes in my life. Buying a multiple Lotus is not one of them.

 

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Thanks Filip,

That's perfect.

It's almost like there's a little "Y" loom piece missing to tie the three connectors together.

I'll report back on how I get along.

Regards, Andy.

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I used the wiring diagram to reconnect the CL motor switch wires in the driver's door.

After additionally fixing a bad terminal connection, near the CL module under the front bonnet, all now working as it should.

Thanks Filip.

Andy.

Edited by AndyPG
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On 06/04/2020 at 09:31, AndyPG said:

Hi All,

I've had the door cards off on my '90 SE to fix the electric mirror switches and adjust the electric window runners. All went well and now working great.

I had previously removed a badly installed Cobra alarm/immobiliser and made good all the cut wires. A pair of Cobra wires went into the driver's door to the central locking loom.

I have now removed these wires and seem to be left with three central locking related connectors which don't fit each other.

There's a black plug with 5 wires from the central lock motor,  then the loom has a white socket with three wires and a white socket with two wires.

Is there something missing from inside the driver's door which allows these to connect together?

Maybe someone has a wiring diagram which might help me get it back together?

Cheers, Andy.

 

Hi Andy,

I spent just on 4 days last week installing an aftermarket remote c/l system on my '89 SE.  It, also, had had an aftermarket c/l and alarm system installed at some stage.  The c/l kits are ridiculously cheap from aliexpress or similar  )about NZ$15 (7 pounds?).  I'd recommend getting one of these and using the existing actuators if they are okay.  Use the existing lotus wiring (assuming yours had central locking from factory - mine did) to save threading new wires through the door. The c/l unit can sit happily under the plastic cover in the front boot, on the passenger side, on the firewall.  This is where the original c/l unit is mounted (if you had one).  You only need to hook up 2 wires per actuator.  After scouring youtube, I found this video which actually showed, wire-for-wire, how to connect it up.  I was about to give up before finding this:

Coincidentally, I've spent the last 2 days trying to improve my passenger side window, which is as slow as a lockdown Friday night.  Had the whole thing apart, as far as you can without removing the motor without any luck.  Any tips on how to get improvement?  Cheers.  Terry.

Whoops.  Just saw that you had sorted the problem.

Oh well - electric window question still stands.

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The problem with fitting an aftermarket system is that the Esprit SE (as detailed in the manual) doesn't have a motor in the drivers door. So you need to fit a separate actuator. I've thought about trying to use a LHD passenger door lock in my RHD car, but then I'd have to add a switch I think and the modules are not that cheap to just start experimenting. It's one of the few things that annoys me on my Esprit: if I open the passenger door, to let the lady in for example, and then walk round the car I need to unlock the drivers door as well.

@AndyPG glad you got it sorted and thanks for the feedback!

Greetz,

Filip

I have made many mistakes in my life. Buying a multiple Lotus is not one of them.

 

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3 hours ago, Hammer59 said:

trying to improve my passenger side window, which is as slow as a lockdown Friday night.  Had the whole thing apart, as far as you can without removing the motor without any luck.  Any tips on how to get improvement?

Hi Terry,

If the windows are particularly slow in the lower positions, it could be simply binding up in the runners. There's the two glass runners/channels and a central curved bar, which the rollers run on. If the two glass channels are adjusted too far towards the outer door skin, the whole thing starts to bind up.

Andy.

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15 hours ago, Escape said:

The problem with fitting an aftermarket system is that the Esprit SE (as detailed in the manual) doesn't have a motor in the drivers door. So you need to fit a separate actuator. I've thought about trying to use a LHD passenger door lock in my RHD car, but then I'd have to add a switch I think and the modules are not that cheap to just start experimenting. It's one of the few things that annoys me on my Esprit: if I open the passenger door, to let the lady in for example, and then walk round the car I need to unlock the drivers door as well.

@AndyPG glad you got it sorted and thanks for the feedback!

Greetz,

Filip

Hi Filip.  Oh yes, I'd forgotten that the existing actuator in the driver's door was an old aftermarket one.  I still think using a new complete system (whilst using original lotus wiring) makes sense.  There's not much fettling to do to mount the new actuators.  I took the SE out yesterday (only to the supermarket, of course) for the first time since fitting the remote locking system.  It worked a treat.  Now onto the slow windows and the bouncy speedo.

15 hours ago, AndyPG said:

Hi Terry,

If the windows are particularly slow in the lower positions, it could be simply binding up in the runners. There's the two glass runners/channels and a central curved bar, which the rollers run on. If the two glass channels are adjusted too far towards the outer door skin, the whole thing starts to bind up.

Andy.

Hi Andy.

I hadn't thought of that. I'm assuming you mean to adjust the runners in or out by inserting spacers?  I'd only considered adjusting them laterally - i.e. 'widening' the gap between them.

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16 hours ago, Escape said:

The problem with fitting an aftermarket system is that the Esprit SE (as detailed in the manual) doesn't have a motor in the drivers door. So you need to fit a separate actuator. I've thought about trying to use a LHD passenger door lock in my RHD car, but then I'd have to add a switch I think and the modules are not that cheap to just start experimenting. It's one of the few things that annoys me on my Esprit: if I open the passenger door, to let the lady in for example, and then walk round the car I need to unlock the drivers door as well.

@AndyPG glad you got it sorted and thanks for the feedback!

Greetz,

Filip

Just fit a remote kit chap - super easy and cheap - even for rolling code units 

Only here once

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9 hours ago, Hammer59 said:

I'm assuming you mean to adjust the runners in or out by inserting spacers?

Hi Terry,

Think you've got it. No spacers on mine though. The runners are simply clamped between two nuts at the bottom.

Andy.

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9 hours ago, Barrykearley said:

Just fit a remote kit chap - super easy and cheap - even for rolling code units 

Nope, don't want to have a remote dangling from the keychain and don't want to add weight to the car. 😉 But as long as the CDL is there, it could be improved upon. Even though I'll probably never get round to it...

Filip

I have made many mistakes in my life. Buying a multiple Lotus is not one of them.

 

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14 hours ago, AndyPG said:

Hi Terry,

Think you've got it. No spacers on mine though. The runners are simply clamped between two nuts at the bottom.

Andy.

Hi Andy.  Yep, I understand how the runners are adjusted.  Loosening of these nuts give lateral movement to the runners.  I thought you meant an "in and out" sort of adjustment, thus taking the runners closer to, or further away from, the door skin.  This could only be achieved by sticking some washers behind the runners.  It's hard to imagine how the system would come to need this sort of adjustment, though, tbh.  Think I'll just have to take the motor out to see just what's what.

Cheers.

Terry

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8 hours ago, Hammer59 said:

I thought you meant an "in and out" sort of adjustment, thus taking the runners closer to, or further away from, the door skin.  This could only be achieved by sticking some washers behind the runners. 

Hi Terry,

This is exactly what I do mean.

On my car, the bottom of each runner is held in place between two nuts on a long bolt. The nuts can be adjusted anywhere along the long bolt and this moves the runners closer to or further away from the door skin. If the runners are adjusted too close to the door skin, they interact with the central aluminium roller runner and cause binding in the lower part of the window travel. Sounds like your car uses multiple washers and one nut to achieve the same thing.

This may not even be your issue. Was with mine though.

8 hours ago, Hammer59 said:

It's hard to imagine how the system would come to need this sort of adjustment, though, tbh.

Your car is nearly 30 years old. I think you may be surprised where people have been 😬

Andy.

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14 hours ago, AndyPG said:

Hi Terry,

This is exactly what I do mean.

On my car, the bottom of each runner is held in place between two nuts on a long bolt. The nuts can be adjusted anywhere along the long bolt and this moves the runners closer to or further away from the door skin. If the runners are adjusted too close to the door skin, they interact with the central aluminium roller runner and cause binding in the lower part of the window travel. Sounds like your car uses multiple washers and one nut to achieve the same thing.

This may not even be your issue. Was with mine though.

Your car is nearly 30 years old. I think you may be surprised where people have been 😬

Andy.

Ahh.  Gotcha. I just assumed the nuts were locking nuts for the lateral movement.  Hadn't investigated their purpose fully.  The sun's out so I'll vigorously strip down the door again and check that out.  Certainly someone's been in and around the area before as the motor mounting bracket is a rather rude, badly welded, replacement job that tends to flex considerably when the motor's under load.  Thanks for your info and patience.

Terry

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