laurentsc80 11 Posted April 7, 2020 Report Share Posted April 7, 2020 (edited) Bonjour à tous. Comme déjà dit dans ma présentation, j'ai acheté cette Lotus Esprit S3 sur ebay. J'habite en Belgique, et je l'ai acheté sur la base de photos et sur les mots du vendeur. Je vais le restaurer complètement, mais d'abord je veux le restaurer pour pouvoir rouler avec. Voici quelques photos du vendeur. Concernant l'état du véhicule selon le vendeur, il y a eu un problème avec les freins, le moteur ne démarre pas sauf avec le pilote de démarrage car l'essence s'écoule des carburateurs, et il n'y a plus de pompe à essence. Je dois donc résoudre ces problèmes avant de pouvoir passer le MOT et de pouvoir l'enregistrer. J'ai également besoin de convertir les phares en LHD. Edited April 7, 2020 by laurentsc80 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Choppa 214 Posted April 7, 2020 Report Share Posted April 7, 2020 Looks like you have an interesting project on your hands, keep us updated on your progress. Swapping out the headlamps to a LHD set might be expensive, but going LHD can be done very easily if you fit these type of LED bulbs, which is why I brought a set. They are designed so you can twist the "filament" section from a RHD beam pattern to a LHD beam pattern, and then it's just a case of adjusting the aim with the screws in the headlamp pods. https://www.classiccarleds.co.uk/collections/headlight-led-bulbs/products/pair-of-warm-white-led-headlights-h4-hi-lo-beam-conversion-9-32v-excellent-beam-pattern?variant=8239029715039 Quote Normally Aspirated - and lovin' it! Link to post Share on other sites
laurentsc80 11 Posted April 7, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 7, 2020 Thanks for the link I didn't know. I thought that the shape of the beam lhd or rhd and due to the design of the glass. I already bought new lights. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
andydclements 749 Posted April 7, 2020 Report Share Posted April 7, 2020 The glass is what does the beam (on refractor type headlights like these cars) s o I'd not trust them to work as well as they claim. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
drdoom 398 Posted April 7, 2020 Report Share Posted April 7, 2020 Laurent, congratulations on acquiring the car! Thanks for the mild exercise in French-English translation. Salut! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
laurentsc80 11 Posted April 7, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 7, 2020 I have no merit it is google translate. I hope it goes well. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gvy 379 Posted April 7, 2020 Report Share Posted April 7, 2020 (edited) Laurent, It looks a bit rough, but on the other hand, it does look pretty complete as a start. The fact that you are missing the fuelpump is not that bad. From experience I can tell you that the question is never if the original SU pump will fail but rather when will it fail, so In the end buying a new one is always the way to go. In 2017 I payed 78Bpd for a new SU pump SJ075L0001at SJ sportscars . I see it is 139Bpd now..... Those pumps have electronics instead of points as the original and that is way better. And please look at the state of the cambelt and the cambelt tensioner. Do not start and rev the engine before changing these. This is an interference engine, so you will have massive damage if that belt snaps on you or even if it shifts teeth. You named your topic "restomod" What are your plans, since a restomod involves new better technology in an old car ? Edited April 7, 2020 by gvy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
laurentsc80 11 Posted April 8, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2020 Bonvoir gvy, You're absolutely right. The fuel pump is often a problem on a car and not just Lotus. So a new one to be quiet. The engine will of course have a new belt. You are an observer, I actually wrote "restomod". After general repair and after driving for a while, I will convert with a 3.9 V8 rover engine. Although we cannot perhaps say that this engine is a technological upgrade ... There will also be other small modifications which I will talk about as we go along. I know it will not please everyone but it will not remain full stock. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
laurentsc80 11 Posted April 8, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2020 (edited) Voici la première mise à niveau: les freins. En effet, les étriers avant étaient bloqués. Je les ai trempés pendant 24 heures dans du mazout pour pouvoir retirer les pistons. J'ai enduit les étriers de poudre de vernis transparent. then reassemble everything with a repair kit. I also sent the brake master cylinder for overhaul to a brake and clutch specialist. Result: not repairable Will have to find a new one. it seems difficult. Is there an equivalence? Edited April 8, 2020 by laurentsc80 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Gold FFM Escape 776 Posted April 8, 2020 Gold FFM Report Share Posted April 8, 2020 Looks like you already made a good start with the brakes! SJ Sportscars has master cilinders, at a very reasonable price: https://www.sjsportscars.com/parts-and-accessories/SJ082J0058.htm I do wonder why you'd fit a 3.9 Rover V8. I don't want to start an argument and can understand why you'd want to change up from the N/A 2.2. And I like the Rover V8, quite familiar with the Range Rover type. But the 3.9 seems an odd choice. the 4.0/4.6 has the stronger bottom end, better oil pump, serpentine belt, no more distributor and bigger is always better. Filip Quote I have made many mistakes in my life. Buying a multiple Lotus is not one of them. Link to post Share on other sites
Gold FFM Popular Post Barrykearley 6,841 Posted April 8, 2020 Gold FFM Popular Post Report Share Posted April 8, 2020 Really - don’t stick a rover engine in it. You will devalue that car massively. It’s been done a fair few times and when the cars come up for sale are always tricky to move on. 3 Quote Only here once Link to post Share on other sites
laurentsc80 11 Posted April 8, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2020 Thank you for the link, Escape The choice of 3.9 is because I already have it. I do not sell my cars, it will be for my sons when I am no longer there. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Gold FFM Barrykearley 6,841 Posted April 8, 2020 Gold FFM Report Share Posted April 8, 2020 Then please let your son have the pleasure in thrashing that 2.2 NA engine. It’s a far better unit that any rover one. Drive it hard and make your own mind up after you have 1 Quote Only here once Link to post Share on other sites
Gold FFM Escape 776 Posted April 8, 2020 Gold FFM Report Share Posted April 8, 2020 I have to agree with @Barrykearley. I've driven an N/A and while it lacks the push of the Turbo, it's a very very enjoyable car to drive and a pleasure to build the revs as you go through the gears. Something I'm sure you'll find out soon enough once your car is on the road. The 3.9 will be undergeared, in a light car you wont benefit from the low down grunt (as you do in a Range Rover) and it will never feel as lively as the Lotus slant 4. So a lot of hassle and no improvement... Just ask @cbclotus, he had a Rover V8 powered Esprit after selling his SE to me and regretted it. Filip 1 Quote I have made many mistakes in my life. Buying a multiple Lotus is not one of them. Link to post Share on other sites
laurentsc80 11 Posted April 8, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2020 thanks for the advice. I will see. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
laurentsc80 11 Posted April 26, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2020 Hello, small steps with the brakes. Reassembly of the brake calipers. I do not remember when dismantling that there were two différent shims? The shim with arrow, i have only one. Strange Quote Link to post Share on other sites
laurentsc80 11 Posted April 26, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2020 (edited) Je vais aux freins arrière. - Le frein à main semble bien fonctionner mais est dur. - La roue gauche tourne librement, la droite frotte constamment. J'ai commencé par détendre les câbles de frein à main pour voir s'ils en étaient la cause. Mais non, même détendue, la roue droite frotte toujours. Conclusion, l'étrier de frein doit être légèrement grippé. Retrait du siège pour accéder aux câbles. Trois écrous tournent facilement, un casse. Dépose de l'étrier arrière droit, pas de soucis. Démontage complet. Le levier de frein à main était particulièrement difficile à déplacer. La cause en était la graisse séchée. What kind of grease do you need? Edited April 26, 2020 by laurentsc80 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
drdoom 398 Posted April 26, 2020 Report Share Posted April 26, 2020 Bonjour Laurent, For internals use what is called rubber grease, sometimes called red rubber grease, as it is harmless to the seals and caps. External pieces in need of lubrication, the caliper slide pins for example, will want a light touch of something tolerant of high temperature. I will defer to others more experienced in this for advice. Salut Quote Link to post Share on other sites
laurentsc80 11 Posted April 29, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 29, 2020 Thank you for the explanations . I already use this type of grease for the brakes. I had a doubt because I thought the grease and the brake oil were in contact. But after thorough cleaning I saw that there was an oring joint which separated them. Here, I have two slightly different handbrake cables (caliper side)? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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